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Old 08-06-2015, 09:55 AM   #31
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Assuming the question is about the center top bolt:
That bolt is sticking into the heater box about 1/4 - 1/2 inch or 8-12mm.
The bolt length is not too important. There is some room at the top. You can see that hamlorac uses a clip nut and an additional nut on top of the Al stock to jam the bolt when it has been inserted just enough to keep the flapper from shutting completely.
I had a thicker piece of Al stock and drilled and tapped it. I also used a second jam nut so once adjusted you could jam (tighten the top nut down) the bolt in position.

I suspect you are making this more difficult then it really is. Hats off to hamlorac because the idea is ingenious. Execution is not that super critical. The tricky part is to barely keep the internal flap from fully reaching its end of travel where it tends to jam. Give it a shot. It is not too bad, works and saves a nice pile of money. Sadly I suspect a new air box is only a temporary fix anyway.
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:41 PM   #32
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davmac - Agreed - it is brilliant and simple. My question was length and diameter of the center, stop bolt, and it's positioning, which I think is important to get right. I can't believe it would take much force to prevent the damper from over traveling. I'd think 6 mm diameter for the center, or stop bolt would be adequate. His photo's though excellent and close up, skew scale perception, hence the questions. His center / stop bolt appears to be 8 mm relative to the small self tappers. Thanks for your input and thanks to hamlorac. I'm grateful to be able to save my daughter a lot of money on this fix. She's one of those broke college students.
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Old 08-06-2015, 05:42 PM   #33
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As is typical my long winded answer missed the point.
My center bolt is mounted approximately in the center of the air box on the left side of those reinforcing ribs just as pictured. Pay attention to the photo for the vertical placement (kind of resting just above the ridge) because that determines where the bolt enters the air box. The horizontal placement is not too critical because you just want to keep the flap from completely closing and the flap is the entire width of the air box.
The center bolt I used was M8x1.25 x 25 or 35mm long
I'm sure M6 would also work as would 1/4-20.
The only critical adjustment is how much bolt is threaded into the air box. You need to be able to twist the knob to nearly the end of its range before the bolt stops the flap. Obviously you want the flap to nearly seal to have the intended effect of changing the air flow.
IIRC I just grabbed the damper door by hand using the lever at the side to confirm the fix before reassembly.
Good luck with your repair!
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Old 08-13-2015, 02:05 PM   #34
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To hamlorac or davmac - Hi. I think I understand the location of picture 2, as it appears to be below the radio, right behind the hvac control panel, the three ribs being the unique i.d. of the spot. What I can not make out is the location of picture 3. Can u or anyone else shed a little more light on that. I don't want to put this all back together and only have one stop installed. Thanks
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:31 PM   #35
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Got it. Works great.
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:32 PM   #36
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2 views of the same thing. One stop only.
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Old 09-06-2015, 03:49 AM   #37
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Thanks for the suggestion, to keep the control knob turned just a bit away from either extreme of adjustment. Works without problem, now.

The vent control knob was starting to get difficult to move off the full CW or CCW position, on my 2007 Focus wagon (220,000 km), just this summer.
It finally did freeze in the defrost position and I had to access the plastic lever, on the air box, at the floor of the car, and manually move the lever, to free up the vent control knob




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Originally Posted by torradan View Post
I may have to give this a try when I feel like pulling the car apart again. It's having enough problems that I don't even want to look at it and I'm about ready to drive it into Lake Ontario.

Anywho, mine gets stuck on defrost,and I have to reach up inside there and manually move it. As long as I keep it a notch from full defrost, it doesn't stick.

Almost seems like it goes a little further past where it should, and turning the knob isn't enough to rotate it back.
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Old 06-02-2017, 01:22 PM   #38
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Fixed, but using another way. There are actually two sticking points there.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/g...-door-fix.html
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Fix the driver first, then fixing the car becomes so much easier..........
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Old 06-03-2017, 06:03 PM   #39
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flap fix

Hi amc49, Thanks for your update. That is a unique alteration to the selector gate, but whatever fixes your problem, then that is more power to you. My own solution has been good for 2 years now, so I am not looking for any more drastic moves. Thanks for the heads up and keep plugging away. hamlorac.
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Old 06-03-2017, 06:42 PM   #40
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Your way works fine but you need to be sure you are as close as you can to absolute closed at least on the a/c side as any leaking there at all to guarantee no sticking then lowers the quality of your a/c coldness. Need to be right up against the door sealing but NOT sealing. I actually have your method pics saved and at first was going to do it that way until looking close at how the door rocker arm worked made me realize how you could zero in even closer by using the cam to have more adjustability of the door closed points.

I'm in Texas, we have no overhead giveaway of a/c cold at all here, need every last bit of it. You're great in Canada............
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