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Old 12-27-2009, 11:34 AM   #1
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2006 2.0 Check engine light, new battery won't fit ...

2006 Focus Z3, 2.0L. In the past 24 hours -- the check engine light came on, I figured it was time to change the factory battery after 4 years.
Went to W-Mart, the battery listed would not fit in the tray -- there is a boxed tab formed into the tray bottom that doesn't let the battery fit.
So, we reinstalled the factory battery and the check engine light is now off.
The W-Mart battery test said to replace the battery. My guess is that's the reason for the check engine light and that it will light up again, if I don't change the battery.
W-Mart did not list an air filter for a 2006 Focus 2.0L so I walked to P-Boys and their info said the car comes with a lifetime filter, and they did not list a replacement.
-- My open questions to fellow Fanatics: Is there an air filter to clean or replace?
-- If the check engine light does not come back on should I find a correctly sized battery and replace it after 4 years, or wait for it to die?
Hugo :)


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Old 12-27-2009, 12:00 PM   #2
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P-Boys is right.

Modern batteries should last far longer than four years under normal driving conditions.

If the Check Engine Light comes on again, get the exact code read at an auto parts supplier, not W-mart, before replacing parts.
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:44 PM   #3
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Today I replaced the battery, Motorcraft, Ford dealer, $119 out of the door. CE light is off now but I anticipate it lighting up, again. Now the car is stalling on deceleration, almost every time. Maybe the PCV valve should be next?
-Hugo
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Old 12-28-2009, 05:46 PM   #4
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What BC_ZX3 said. You need to get the codes off your ECU (have the ford dealer get them or Pep boys if there close). The codes will tell you what the issue is.
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Old 12-28-2009, 06:57 PM   #5
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The CE light is on. The troubleshooting code is PO171 -- OBDcodes.com says this is almost always caused by a dirty mass air flow sensor. So, I guess I'll be locating, removing and cleaning it tomorrow. -Hugo
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Old 12-28-2009, 07:18 PM   #6
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Some more detailed code info and possible causes for you (from FF):

P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1) The Adaptive Fuel Strategy continuously monitors fuel delivery hardware. The test fails when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich calibrated limit. For lean and rich DTCs:
Fuel system
Excessive fuel pressure.
Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors.
Leaking fuel pressure regulator.
Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel.
Vapor recovery system.
Induction system:
Air leaks after the MAF.
Vacuum Leaks.
PCV system.
Improperly seated engine oil dipstick.
EGR system:
Leaking gasket.
Stuck EGR valve.
Leaking diaphragm or EVR.
Base Engine:
Oil overfill.
Cam timing.
Cylinder compression.
Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2Ss.
A SHRTFT-1,2 PID value between -25% to +35% and a LONGFT-1,2 PID value between -35% to +35% is acceptable. Reading beyond these values indicate a failure.
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:15 PM   #7
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the maf is easy to change. they are fairly cheap
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Old 12-29-2009, 10:39 AM   #8
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I am going to buy a new MAFS, thank you very much. :)
Here is another question I can't answer. Does my car have an air filter?
P-Boys said they don't list one, that the car (2006, 2.0L, ZX3, auto) does not have a replaceable intake air filter. It's got to be sucking from some where, and the air/roads here at times can be pretty dirty. If the car does not have an air filter what can I do to clean the intake? The car has 105,000 miles and has never had the air intake cleaned, but I have replaced the fuel filter.
I thought about the dipstick not being in right -- so far as I can tell it is. And where on the stick indicates too much oil?
-Hugo

Last edited by hugo24k; 12-29-2009 at 10:45 AM. Reason: adding stuff
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:52 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focusxc View Post
the maf is easy to change. they are fairly cheap
Not sure about the 2006, but earlier models use a anti-tamper Torx screw to hold the MAF sensor in place. It's easy to change providing you have the right tool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hugo24k View Post
I am going to buy a new MAFS, thank you very much. :)
Your OBD codes web site reference recommends cleaning it, not replacing it. It also lists PCV hose leaks and vacuum leaks as possible causes. It costs nothing to inspect for vacuum leaks and to examine your PCV hose to eliminate them as potential problem areas first.

Quote:
Here is another question I can't answer. Does my car have an air filter?
Yes. It's a Ford "lifetime" air filter as was fitted to certain PZEV cars to meet strict emission regs. It's in the driver's side fender area. Trace your intake hose from the intake manifold out. The local auto parts places don't stock them because they are expensive and replaced infrequently.

Quote:
P-Boys said they don't list one, that the car (2006, 2.0L, ZX3, auto) does not have a replaceable intake air filter. It's got to be sucking from some where, and the air/roads here at times can be pretty dirty. If the car does not have an air filter what can I do to clean the intake? The car has 105,000 miles and has never had the air intake cleaned, but I have replaced the fuel filter.
The filter is available exclusively from the Ford dealer, I believe. Bring a large suitcase full of cash. I hear they are about $300 to replace since they are sealed units and difficult to get at/service. There may be a dial or pop up button on the filter casing to indicate if it really needs replacement. Not positive about that though.

Quote:
I thought about the dipstick not being in right -- so far as I can tell it is. And where on the stick indicates too much oil?
-Hugo
The oil level should be between the two hash marks on the dipstick or there should be a "max" and "min" marked on the dipstick to indicate the two permissible extremes. Refer to the owner's manual for your year. If it's above the upper indicator, it's been over filled.
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Old 12-30-2009, 01:15 AM   #10
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ok, a little on the air filter.
It is a lifetime filter and if you look at the silencer (stupid looking box just before the throttle body) there is a guage on the side, with the car running look and see if its still in the green, if not it will need to be replaced (at 100k it probably needs it anyways).
the actual filter is located in the front drivers side corner of the bumper under the headlight and bolted between the frame and bumper. it then has a tube which runs behind the fender above the wheel well liner to just before the door area.
in the pic you can see the tube on the top of the filter, it has a yellow wire across it holding the bumper up...lol
steeda, fswerks, f2, all make cold air intakes for the car with a cleanable cone filter. It actually is cheaper by a bit to replace the stock with one of the above mentioned.

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