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Old 02-10-2014, 07:56 PM   #61
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There is also the Dorman guide (click the tab with Technical Info)...

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-12320-741-585.aspx
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Old 03-09-2015, 05:43 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danovotny View Post
Link not working. Can someone repair, relink?
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Old 03-10-2015, 03:40 AM   #63
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Not hard to fix them at all, I simply download a pic of the whole assembly as a guide to what locates how. Just did a right rear yesterday, got a driver side front waiting for time to do it over. I'm even cutting the motor brackets off bad pulleyed rails to put them on manual rails to get good pulleys again when the wire has knotted up to scar the originals. One of the front manual window clips will work but the other is different from the power one. Manual clips are much more likely to be good in the junkyard because they are not slammed up hard like the power motor does to break them.
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Old 03-10-2015, 03:45 AM   #64
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RegulatorFix.com

Go to bottom of page for the rebuild of a Focus rear one.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:14 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
RegulatorFix.com

Go to bottom of page for the rebuild of a Focus rear one.
They charge way to much for those pieces. You know they sell kits just for the ford focus On ebay, like 7 bucks. Comes with cable,clips, and cog. Those are good if your cable is messed up.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:19 PM   #66
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Wow they raised the prices... just looked. I have some kits and clips though. to bad you weren't closer lol
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:57 AM   #67
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Most of the time the cable only is messed up. A lot of the extra damage is done by those insisting on working the window again and again in misplaced hope it will then start working again. The test is lifting up on the glass, if loose from broken clips it will move up/down and it is then broken, move it more and you tear up more parts. Catch it fast enough and no damage to anything at all other than the clips and the end stops. I rebuild the end stops to make them much stronger. Broken green plastic ferrules I replace with a 1/8" NPT X 1/8" hose nipple and slit up the side with a dremel and cutting wheel, the slit lets cable go in it.

The cables can be recouped by heating them red hot while pulling them out straight while end locked in vise, the kinks magically disappear. I haven't needed one cable yet, they all get reused.
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Old 05-01-2017, 08:28 AM   #68
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DIY links RegulatorFix

Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
RegulatorFix.com

Go to bottom of page for the rebuild of a Focus rear one.
info at RegulatorFix.com

Some more DIY links from them:

front:


rear:

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Old 05-01-2017, 08:13 PM   #69
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FYI.................I do not have a clue if it is a permanent problem or not but the prices have dropped on the clips.........................BUT.................apparently the quality may have as well. The last ones I got are clearly of a quality level to come from another country with quality standards so far below ours as to make them almost worthless.

The plastic itself is of another color now and is cooked too much to now be way less flexible and now when you snap the parts onto the rail they can shatter pieces off doing it. BTDT. Maybe a different formula of plastic there too, to wit, the color. As well, the injection molding process has been sped way up to have the partially still molten parts ejected to then warp way out of shape before they completely solidify. It warped the grooves and parallelism of the posts on mine to be almost useless. I had to rework the grooves with a file to get the cable in, not normal at all. The actual molds seem to have been very roughly copied from others that were likely more spot-on as far as accuracy. The ejector pin marks now are deep enough in a couple of places to make the part break easier that way too. The pressure used in the actual molding process may have been dropped back as the molten plastic is no longer squishing in on itself to fill all the voids and make the part essentially one piece, there are no voids but the next thing, the part has mold fissures all over it and by such premade to crack up in pieces under a load. The parts by virtue of being nylon to cut friction are interference fit to work smoothly, the mismolding of points-in-space tears that quality up and I had to shim in various ways to get the clips to slide with the proper drag to stop rattles yet light enough to not drag the motor down, before you simply snapped them on and done.

All the evidence of parts coming from extreme 3rd world countries maybe, the last ones I got were in no way as good as the ones I had gotten before, those were sweet.

The good ones were gray in color, the crap ones are white.

Buyer beware.........................I sure hope that's not the way of the future there, I use those parts quite often.
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Last edited by amc49; 05-01-2017 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 05-13-2017, 03:04 PM   #70
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I snapped the hand crank connecting rod off my drivers window regulator and decided to go with a new Dorman 740-128 Manual Window Regulator.
US $42.28 shipped.

FRONT LEFT DRIVER MANUAL WINDOW REGULATOR ONLY FITS 2001-2007 FORD FOCUS | eBay

Simple 30 minute job.
Because the window was in the up position, I used a wrench on the window clamps which is accessible with a ratchet if the window is down.

Do not over tighten these window clamps. the window will crack.
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