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Old 12-31-2018, 08:49 PM   #271
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Ill double check tommorow. When it was warmed up, it went from 30 to 45 pretty quickly. Has rough idle when cold and under 30 isn't as peppy as it was before. Plugs and wires were installed sometime this year.
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:07 PM   #272
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Just one yank on wires can fault them if crap wireset, and common on zetecs as they really stick to the plug tops. You MUST twist the plug rubber entering the hole loose before you make any effort to remove the wire. The conductor inside is STRING with carbon dust in it, the string pulls apart to make a separation of the dust track and the wire is then dead. An ohms check is easy to do with a cheap voltmeter, the wires can have no more than 5000 ohms per FOOT OF WIRE LENGTH. I've used 20 year old wires if they pass that test.
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:09 PM   #273
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What did you use to verify TDC with? The tool used to go into back of cams needs to be tight as well.
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Old 01-01-2019, 04:30 PM   #274
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I didn't get a tool, but had a service manual, which said to stick a 6" or longer cylindrical object in and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the object stopped going up. Both front cam shaft lobes were laying flat after this. After that, I rotated it another turn to be sure. The pulley key was about pointing towards the top of the engine. Also, the new tensioner notch moves back and forth. Is that normal?
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Old 01-01-2019, 11:04 PM   #275
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Yes, normal.

The TDC method can work or not, the problem is that the pencil used or whatever slows WAY down in up/down at TDC, the last 5 degrees it moves almost an impossible amount to see by eye slowly, lots of error there and common. Both cam slots being flat is just as worthless if no tool used, for one thing they are off center and one way they are actually way out of line, they only line up every TWO turns, not one.

Add up the error between both lineups (TDC and slots) and you can easily be 10 degrees out of time.
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