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Old 12-26-2014, 08:25 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Es1988 View Post
So i'm new to setup and all that, my brother usually does all that and I just show up and drive. What does upgrading the rear suspension do? shouldnt I upgrade the front suspension?
It sounded like u were describing under steer, so stiffen up the rear or soften the front for less understeer
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Old 12-26-2014, 08:29 PM   #12
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I push mid corner, front of car goes towards outside lane
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:08 PM   #13
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Sports Car & Circle Track folks use different terms to talk about what's usually the same thing.

Under steer = Push = Tight for most purposes.

When the front drifts/slides more than the rear, you turn the wheel & the nose doesn't turn as much as desired, the tail stays planted compared to the front - those are all "under steer" situations.

A FWD car will seldom get "loose" or over steer, when it does it's not as easy to control as a RWD one where just easing the throttle is usually enough to bring it back in line. In fact backing off then will just make it come around more most of the time, it can snap around fast at that point.

When the car's handling is 'balanced", the whole car will move sideways toward the outside in a corner if you're going faster than the traction allows.

FWD has a tendency to "push" as you add power in a corner & tuck back in as power is reduced.

Does some of that make sense as to what you're feeling?
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:36 PM   #14
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Yes it does, as my front end slides towards the outer lane under too much power

Last edited by Es1988; 12-26-2014 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:08 PM   #15
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OK, so I'm guessing that you get good turn in as you enter the corner after backing off the throttle, and it starts pushing in the middle of the turn as you add more throttle to maintain speed.

You're on the right track with the camber adjustments at both sides in front, you want the most you can get on that outside front wheel. What can be done within the unwritten rules of your local track can vary, you got all you could from slotting the top mount it looks like. Some can get away with doing the same to the Ball Joint attachments for another adjustment location. A Few even found out about bending the bottom of the strut after an accident did it to them - touchy as you can't do it too much without damaging the workings of the strut. Extra couple degrees to be gotten there easily if you can do it/get away with it.

Softening the front roll by removing the sway bar attachment is easy to try, just pull one link. That transfers less weight to the outside tire letting both tires in front hook up better. The extra roll can be reduced by stiffening the rear by roll bar or springs, that both helps keep the front flatter for better traction there & lets the rear rotate (slide) more by putting more weight on the outside tire in the turn.

The combination gives you more grip in the front while loosing some you don't need in the rear. Instead of putting all the load on the outside front you split it between the front wheels & the right outside wheel - inside rear might even lift a little, though I doubt it with the limitations of your rules.

Get it balanced better & you may be able to dive into the corner on trailing throttle (which helps the rear kick out a bit), work through the center with as much throttle as you can use without drifting up, and add throttle to drift up to the outside wall as you exit.

That's an optimum you may not reach, the closer you can get to it the faster you'll make it through the turn.
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:48 PM   #16
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Correct! And do I stiffen the rear sway bar by tightening it?
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:59 PM   #17
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Only a larger one will be stiffer, poly bushings make for quicker response but prob. not legal for your purpose.

The SVT one mentioned is the only "stock" bar that's larger.
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:25 AM   #18
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Ok thank you. We can use poly mounts, i asked this last season
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Old 12-27-2014, 11:38 PM   #19
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What About Wheel Size? Which We I Benefit More From, 14in or 15in?
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Old 12-28-2014, 01:45 AM   #20
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How wide are your 14's vs. the 15's? Wider helps...

You're limited by the rules there, so you'll be running the widest allowed & they all have to be 60 series high.

All else even, 14's will give you an advantage with lower gearing, but that might be offset if it doesn't gear you right for the corners at your track. 15's might put you in a better place there, and put a little more rubber on the road.

Makes it hard to say one over the other without testing.

Whichever puts you in the best part of the power band when cornering, so you're not topping out or too low for the best power in the turn is the one you want. I know you're running an automatic, but you want to treat it like a manual - shifting in a corner or not having the power to control your attitude would be the slow way around IMHO.
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