HOW TO: remove and rebuild your JRSC
My Jackson racing supercharger on my SVT started to make a horrible noise. It kinda sounded like gravel in the engine. Research online (mainly Pontiac GTP forums) led me to believe that the coupler in the snout was worn out. Also, I learned that if the snout oil seal was leaking oil (it was) that maybe my bearings were dieing too. I ordered up a snout rebuilt kit from http://www.rollingperformance.com/snoutkits.htm
For our SC we need the #STDSNOUTKIT03-V kit (75$). I went with the viton oil seal because they last longer.
I also ordered the coupler #SCCOUPLER for $29.95.
The kit contains both snout bearings, oil seal, gasket, and oil.
If you get it shipped to Canada, see if he will send it in a USPS flat rate box, so you don’t get hit with brokerage at the border like I did.
· Socket set with extensions
· Wrench set
· Screwdrivers/ pliers/ etc/ (general tools)
· Hydraulic press
· Gear puller (optional)
· Jack/ jackstands
And this is my rebuild. (a.k.a. blower removal instructions for replacing alternator, or for changing the SC oil)
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Unbolt coolant tank – 10mm socket w/ extension and a small clip. Fold out of way.
3. Remove your strut bar if you have one.
4. Remove accessory belt – 15mm wrench on the tensioner belt. I also used a second wrench on the first to get some extra leverage. Just leave the belt slack where it is so it’s still wrapped around all the other pulleys. I also left the 15mm on the tensioner. It held itself against the shock tower. (optionally, you can access the tensioner from the bottom, you just need to remove the belt guard and a second person to pull the belt off)
5. Remove air intake piping – slotted screwdriver to undo the hose clamps
6. Remove throttle body. – 10mm socket w/extension. Theres one electrical clip on the TPS to remove. I left the cables on the TB. I put the TB and the spacer in a plastic bag to keep it clean and just rested it somewhere in the engine bay. I took this opportunity to jam a clean rag in the intake side of the blower to keep dirt out.
7. Loosen one of the hose clamps on the rubber coupler that connects the blower housing and intake manifold right where the diverter valve is.
8. Remove the vacuum line connections on the top of the blower.
9. Disconnect the injector harness plugs. Also disconnect a lot of other plugs. You want to get a lot of slack in this bit of harness to make it easier to maneuver the blower out later.
10. Using a 10mm wrench loosen the two bolts holding on the fuel rail. Pop the injectors out. I did this by prying a bit on the fuel rail. The whole assembly came out as 1. You should be able to swing the fuel rail right out the way and sit it on the passenger side strut tower.
11. Remove the bolt attaching the alternator bracket to the blower housing – 12mm socket. I also used a 12mm gear wrench cuz it’s a bit of a small space.
12. Jack up the car and put on jack stands. I was able to create enough room underneath by just jacking one side real high and using 1 jack stand under where the front control arm bolts to the subframe.
13. Embarrassingly this next part took a while because it took me forever to find the bolts holding the blower to the intake manifold. Fortunately you are reading this. It turns out the bolts are really long and they pass through the IM to the blower from the underside. There are 4 bolts on the underside on the IM. So get under the car with a 12mm wrench /12 socket (whatever you can fit and get enough leverage with) and remove.
14. At this point everything should be disconnected and the blower should be able to be coaxed out of the engine bay. I suggest covering the IM with something to keep the dirt out. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y24...CRebuild01.jpg
15. If you were replacing the alternator, this is where your instructions would diverge from this writeup. But return to step 13 of reassembly to put the blower back on.
16. Take the blower to your work bench, or where ever your hydraulic press is.
17. Using an allen key, remove the oil drain/fill plug. Drain the oil. I used a large syringe with a length of tubing to get all the oil out without making a huge mess. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y24...CRebuild03.jpg
18. Remove the bolts holding the snout to the blower housing. Using a rubber mallet to gently break the snout loose. Alternatively use a screwdriver to pry the snout apart. There are some convenient places to do this. DON’T SCRATCH THE GASKET MATING SURFACE.
19. Clean up all the oil that spilled out. LOL. Put the blower housing aside.
20. Remove the plastic coupler as pointed to in the pic. This may be the source of all your noise if the holes have become warped. If so, proceed to reassembly. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y24...CRebuild06.jpg
21. Remove the pulley bolt – 18mm socket and a 1.5” wrench. I found that my 1.5” wrench was too thick to fit in the gap, so I used channel locking pliers.
22. Use a gear puller to get the pulley off. Or if that doesn’t work (like it didn’t for me) use the hydraulic press. Save the key. It’s a half moon key, aka a Woodruff key. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y24...CRebuild04.jpg look at the dirt built up on the leaking oil. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y24...CRebuild08.jpg
23. Remove the spring clip holding the oil seal in. Save for re-use.
24. Using the hydraulic press to get out the oil seal and the outer bearing.
25. Save the spring.
26. Press off the coupler and then the inner bearing.
27. Clean off the shaft to ensure it isn’t damaged or heavily scored. I used brake cleaner on a rag to clean things.
28. Clean off the residual gasket from the snout/rotor housing.
29. Disassembly complete.
30. Now it is possible to take this further and replace the rotor bearings, but mine seemed fine. The rotors turn easily and there is little coating worn off which indicates to me that those bearings are fine.
31. In my case the source of my noise was my pulley. The nut had backed off a bit and my pulley was not running true. This had destroyed my keyway/ key and wrecked the pulley. However I had already ordered the rebuilt kit, so I rebuilt it all anyways while it was disassembled.
32. I bought a used 3.6” pulley (20$) from someone who had upgraded to a BBK and I also had to get a new key way machined in my shaft. (I have a friend who is a machinist so it only cost me beer)
33. I should also mention that the longest part of the whole rebuild was waiting for parts in the mail because things had to pass through customs. (I live in Canada)
1. Press on the new inner bearing
2. Press on the coupler; be cautious to line up the splines properly.
3. Press the new outer bearing into the snout
4. Put that spring on the shaft
5. Press the shaft into the bearing in the snout. Make sure all the bearings are fully seated on the shaft and in the snout.
6. Put in the new oil seal. Re-use the spring clip that you saved. This pic shows the new keyway too.
7. Put on the pulley. Remember the key. I used blue loctite so it shouldn’t loosen again.
8. Put the new plastic coupler on the metal coupler pegs.
9. Ensure the gasket surface is clean. Make a small bead with the anaerobic gasket maker (supplied in kit).
10. Line up the couplers and rebolt the snout to the housing. Go around and tighten the bolts little by little and evenly. Don’t over torque and strip a bolt.
11. Let the gasket cure. (follow the instructions) I left mine for at least a day to be safe.
12. Put the supercharger so it is level on a table. Fill the snout with supercharger oil. Mine came with the kit, but you could go to any Ford or GM parts counter and ask for supercharger oil. Do not use regular gear oil; this is special low thermal expansion, long life oil. I filled the snout till it leaked out the fill hole. I used almost 2 (4 ounce) bottles.
13. I used some threaded rod M8 x 1.25, about as long as the bolts holding the blower housing to the IM, to make guide pegs to set the blower down nicely on the IM and to hold the gasket in place (props to iceberg65 on FJfor the suggestion). I ground some flats spots on the end to make it easier to unthread from below.
14. Make sure your IM has no dirt in it, and the injector ports are clean, etc.
15. Using the new “pegs” line up and set the blower on the IM. Make sure the diverter valve rubber coupler is on too, and that the hose clamp is still there. You can tighten the hose clamp at this point.
16. From underneath put in the 2 long bolts into the holes that don’t have the threaded pegs in them. Then remove the pegs and install the 3rd and 4th bolt. I needed some needle nose vise grips to get a good enough grip on the threaded rod (hence the flat spots). Tighten the bolts.
17. Reinstall the alternator bracket bolt
18. Lube the O rings of the injectors, and install the fuel rail assembly.
19. Reinstall the vacuum lines.
20. Reinstall all electrical harness connections.
21. Reinstall throttle body.
22. Reinstall intake piping.
23. Put the belt over the pulley (remember the wrench on the tensioner ;) )
24. Reattach the coolant tank
25. Reinstall strut bar (if you have one)
26. Reconnect battery.
27. Remove from jack stands.
28. Start it up and be amazed at the quiet operation of your supercharger.
Total cost. ~150$. Total hours: a lot. It was my first time doing this, and I had to wait for the mail a lot, but you could do it in a day easy. My Gf was getting pretty mad about having to take the bus to work for all that time. the removal and installation wasnt that difficult. I did it parked on the side of the road beside my appartment.
keywords: eaton m62 rebuild, JRSC rebuild, snout rebuild, snout drive, supercharger rebuild, JRSC removal, powerworks rebuild, alternator removal
seriously nice writeup!
Excellent information, looks like a good winter project for me
Awesome write up. Stickie this thing so I can find it when I need it! Only I'll need to look for the part numbers for the Zetec one.
Great write up! Awesome job on it. I imagine it will be stickied soon.
Great write-up. Hope it gets stickied.
Thanks for getting this write up done ... very informative, thanks! Nice to see there are cheaper options out there than just shipping it off to get rebuilt.
yes, please stickie this, as i'm aiming for the jrsc for my boost (its a daily/ straack whore, so its gotte be relaible)
if you want to source the parts from the kit separatly
chicago rawhide seal: #20 47 4 KM
inner bearing NSK 8303
outer bearing NSK 6204
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