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Old 07-20-2019, 10:51 PM   #1
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Tappet bucket questions

Hi,

I am having a hard time seeing the inside of the buckets. I can see some of it but I was wondering if the numbers are engraved or painted on.

Scared to clean the inside up a little just in case!

Please advise.

Thanks!



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Old 07-21-2019, 05:18 AM   #2
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Once they are used you measure them rather than trust the numbers, some wear in to be off the number a bit. And what if somebody has remachined some to get in effect new again or to hit ones they can't find?
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Old 07-21-2019, 10:55 AM   #3
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Thank you. Changed the subject since I think this general subject might drag out for a bit as I struggle to find information during searches.

Would a micrometer be what I'd use to measure them with? If so, from the point of contact where the bucket meets the valve stem to point where the bucket meets the camshaft lobe?

I have never used one before and all I have is dial calipers.

Also, I'd still like to know if those numbers are engraved or painted on. I'd at least like something to compare my measurements against just in case.
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Old 07-21-2019, 11:14 AM   #4
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I think your best bet is to start playing assembly and use feeler gauges. put them in and then ones that are to tall of "valve lash" put int the ones with to small. You can use a micrometer to find the depth to reduce the build and tare down and build process.

A micrometer thought could impact the surface of the cam if you are not careful.

Yes you measure from the polished top surface to the post inside the bucket.
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Old 07-21-2019, 11:39 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
I think your best bet is to start playing assembly and use feeler gauges. put them in and then ones that are to tall of "valve lash" put int the ones with to small. You can use a micrometer to find the depth to reduce the build and tare down and build process.

A micrometer thought could impact the surface of the cam if you are not careful.

Yes you measure from the polished top surface to the post inside the bucket.
Good ideas. I have been watching the below youtube video as a rough guide.
This video says that I can lay the cam on top of the bucket and then check lash one by one without tightening the cam caps. That sure seems like a good idea. Thoughts on that method?

Another thread here mentioned just tightening down cam caps with a drill on a low torque setting and checking that way.

Guessing with either I could just do one cam at a time?

Also, I mixed up all of the buckets during disassembly so I have no easy way to know which intake and exhaust are unfortunately so I'd still like to know a bit more about the numbers on the inside if possible. I have only dealt with hydraulic lifters in the past so didn't even know what these things were until it was too late, lol.

As far as a micrometer goes, do I need one that goes beyond .001 accuracy? The Harbor Freight one supposedly goes down to .001 on the box but seems to go further in practice.



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Old 07-21-2019, 02:37 PM   #6
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You ALWAYS match hydraulic lifters to the cam lobes they came off of too, not doing so is the bast way to destroy cam lobes there is.

Head off engine like in video is easiest way to adjust the buckets and NOT using the original springs which are too much trouble taking in and out over and over. You get like some racing valve checking springs which are light enough you can easily install by hand using no valve spring compressor at all but still stiff enough to hold a good clearance number and then you can sit down and just set and reset all day long until clearances are right. With the light springs you can even turn the cams by hand to make it even easier. Pick the thinnest tappet or bucket you have and then use it in all holes to get a clearance on all positions and then you have a base number to fairly quickly sort out the others with after you have measured all buckets with a micrometer, calipers have too much error. Watch wear patterns on the tops as well, you may find a pattern that looks like it goes with a certain cam lobe but these are so low in tension there is not much top wear on them. Before you set up take fine sandpaper like #400 or so and dust the bucket tops off with it sanding in a circle pattern to average the wear out a bit and it helps the bucket to break in better with a cam lobe it was not matched to before. Make SURE all sanding dust does not get into tappet bores! It will eat the bores up! When doing bucket setups the cam caps do not have to be fully torqued, only tight enough to snug up to where there is no looseness to mess with your numbers. The caps must be in the correct order and facing correctly by arrow.
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Old 07-21-2019, 02:44 PM   #7
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Old 07-21-2019, 04:16 PM   #8
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Super helpful. Thank you.

This gives me alot of information to develop some sort of strategy. I can't help but wonder whether or not I can get away without needing to pull valve springs if I have a spare set of buckets and only lapped the seats to the degree that they don't leak.

First step is to get a micrometer and report back I guess.

Lots of ideas spinning now.
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:07 AM   #9
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It’s been years since I’ve been into my SVT, but I can tell you the original size was stamped with ink and fades quickly. Definitely get a micrometer and measure all your caps. You may find that many are the same size. Keeping them in the original pocket due to wear is the best but you’ll be fine. The valve lash range is fairly big so with minimal valve seat cleaning you’ll probably find all the original buckets will work for you.
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:39 AM   #10
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I've found that the intakes will lap in fairly easy but the exhaust will tend to need to be cut, they erode more at the seats than the intakes do.
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