Rear suspension help
My lower control arm where the spring sits broke where the sway bar attaches. All the bolts are rusted and it needs cut out. What size bolts do I need to attach the new one?
Looks like you need a new lower control arm....looks like it's cracked-thru & that's definitely unsafe to drive
But judging on the rust, this is going to snow ball on you....
Probably need to add to your shop list:
-Lower Control Arm
-New bolts to mount the lower control arm
-New lower trailing arm [if you "snap" rusty bolts off]
-New bump stop [if it's not included on the arm]
-New sway bar end-links
-Couple spray cans of rust penetrant
Order Ford parts from tascaparts.com or call them at 1-800-598-1484
Or from AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake 800-328-9552
You NEED new arms. DO NOT try to weld them back. All the bushing kits I've seen come with new bolts. You might get lucky and find a good donor car in a junk yard.
I was wondering where to get the bolts. I wish I could just replace the entire rear subframe, but it is sadly my only rear jack point. This car is slowly earning a spot in the junkyard. I already have new lower control arms.
Pinch welds are gone. Rocker isn't even connected to the pinch welds and if you try you just hear crackling. Its not great.
Are you able to lift it by the body rail?
This is where I had it lifted when working on my rear suspension.
That works just fine. What paint did you use on the frame? Is that undercoating? Also, I have decided to replace the entire subframe. Arenthe bolts threaded into the unibody or are there nuts? What do you do if one breaks? 6 right?
There are 6. Use an impact and should be able to brake free. If they do brake (which is fairly rare as they are more protected) then the subframe can still drop and you can use some heat, extractors, and if it comes to it a drill and Helicoil. problem is there is no top side access, it all has to be done from under the vehicle.
I used a combination of POR-15 and a ruberized underbody in both Spray (to get down in to the frame rails) and brush on paint. I was able to cover as much as I could get access to. I know I am not stoping it, but hoping to give it more life. Power washed with high pressure to blast away scale and loose rust and paint. Wire wheel and brushed to scuff and also to get the rest of the rust off. used the POR-15 cleaner, followed by a combo of the POR-15 rust converter and permatex rust converter. Then followed by more high pressure water blast. let it dry over a week, then applied the POR-15, and then let cure and scuffed with pads to apply a few coats of the ruberized underbody coat.
Took me about 6 months of work to get everything off and then put back together.
To OP...did this a while back on my svt when i was living in midwest n was a pain due to rust. All bolts will snap even with penetrating oil if suspension is oe. Get all ur parts before u start and use tons of antisieze on new hardware. Also have propane or map gas on hand along with punches and cutting wheel. Had to cut my arms in 3 pieces to cut the eliptical bolts out that got to the subframe. If u have air tools shouldnt take long but it can be done by hand but will take an entire day. Also i was going to use por15 to coat new arms but opted for undercoat spray.
What ull need:
2 rear control arms(i bought dorman ones n cant remember if they came with new bumpstops or if i reused old ones)
New bolts n nuts that go from the arm to hub area(ace lowes or homedepot n get grade 8 or 10)
2 eliptical bolts that go to subframe(order thru ford dealer and are like 20~30 bucks each)
Rear sway links
Propane or map
Big breaker bar or cheater pipe
Undercoating or por15(optional)
Also id recommend getting an alignment after ur done cuz i had some weird toe-in to the rear after doing everything. Good luck!
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