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Old 07-04-2018, 11:15 AM   #41
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The shifter cable lines are different, but think there are other tutorials on swapping then out or adjusting them.
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:18 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxranger View Post
Thanks Magus 2727

If it's the guts, I can hopefully figure that out when everything is open. It's mostly the removal and installation of the trans that intimidates me, plastic clips, connectors, getting to bolts to get them loose, breaking things because I don't know how to seperate them.
It's not too bad as long as you don't skip anything.
Skipping things will cause you to break stuff on this job.

Disconnect any vacuum hose that connects the intake manifold to parts on the car, like, the purge solenoid, the brake booster pipe, etc..

Disconnect the large engine harness on the passenger firewall, and the other harness next to it. (Purge solenoid I think)

Take the fan assembly out.
You'll need that space.

2 jacks under the trans makes quick work of 'rolling' the trans forward and out.

Put them side by side, come in from the driver side wheel well, perpendicular to the way the car is pointing.
One jack under the firewall end of the trans, one under the forward end.

To 'roll' the trans out, lift the firewall end as you lower the foward end.
Trans should end up coming out, forward side down, on the forward jack.

Reverse the rolling process to install.

All the other steps are pretty straight forward.

Happy wrenching. 👍
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:25 PM   #43
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And I recommend disconnecting the fuel line at the fuel rail pressure sensor, and free up the coolant trumpet running across the front, and take the dipstick out or you can easily break the entire handle off while moving the engine around.
Take the dipstick tube holder little bolt off too, so the tube is free to move around a little.

Suspending the engine from above will cause a lot of grief and time wasted compared to using full size floor jacks under it. At least one, two is better.
You need to be able to put the motor in a crazy awkward position, and, jacks do it way easier than if the engine is suspended.





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Old 07-06-2018, 08:29 AM   #44
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I prefer to hang the engine from the top and remove the subframe. No need to disconnect everything. Good time to freshen up the steering rack bushings. Much easier to get the transmission in and out imho.
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Old 07-07-2018, 11:50 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbfoot View Post
I prefer to hang the engine from the top and remove the subframe. No need to disconnect everything. Good time to freshen up the steering rack bushings. Much easier to get the transmission in and out imho.
One of these days I plan to try that way.
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:04 AM   #46
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For the original poster, the leak is most definitely the o-ring. I just went through this, the new Luk slave cylinder didn't have an o-ring. I noticed the o-ring on the old slave, but wasn't paying attention when I installed the new one. Got everything assembled and trans oil was leaking. The good news is that the second time only took about 8 hours working by myself, including 2 meals, a trip to the parts store, and several beers as I was wrapping the job up.

The input shaft itself is sealed by a seal made into the slave, the leak is from where the outer part of the slave housing fits against the trans housing. BTW, the Ford dealer parts computer shows the o-ring, but it is not serviced separately. If you get it from them, you have to buy the slave.

Also, there is no need to remove or loosen the crossmember. Easiest way is to support the engine using a brace across the top of the motor, I used a scrap piece of steel side to side, with an eye-bolt through the engine lift lug near the front of the valve cover. Same size as a spare tire hold down so I could use the large wing nut to adjust the engine angle. Then attach the engine hoist to the trans housing with a clevis through the hole on top of the trans, it balances perfect. A little wiggling and it comes right out.



The worst part of the whole job is not being able to see very well when getting to all the bolts, the shift cables, and the electrical plugs.

With all the tools figured out now, I bet I could R&R the clutch in 3-4 hours. And I hope I never have to.
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Old 07-09-2018, 08:09 PM   #47
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nvm...
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:11 PM   #48
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Ok, thanks to help from the forum searches and the Erik the car guy 2002 focus clutch removal video, the trans is on the floor. Looks like everyone does it a little differently, with a big friend I got it out without messing with the subframe. I did make a copy of the engine bar hoist with scrap 2x4's, deck screws and a threaded eye hook. Took about 20 mins and helped a lot, used the floor jack for safety. Necessary tool: 13 swivel head impact socket for trans and starter bolts.

Now it is hard to find a clear answer for the slave cylinder. My Luk kit has the plastic slave with no o-ring on it or in the box. The one in the car is metal with o-ring.

Please be clear: re-use the o-ring and add sealer? Or use no o-ring and sealer?
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Old 07-30-2018, 10:01 PM   #49
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I got a new oring at a parts store. I guess sealer would work fine also. If you use sealer, make sure to not apply too much and get it on the input shaft bearing. Also all the surfaces must be absolutely clean.

There is no pressure involved so it is a very simple seal.
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Old 07-30-2018, 11:08 PM   #50
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Looks to me like people who have re-used the o-ring (I'm talking about the big o-ring that seals the slave to the bellhousing) may have cracked the plastic on the slave.

If no one says otherwise, I'm going no o-ring and the "anaerobic gasket maker" made by permatex

Not sure why Tom would say he's never seen one without an o-ring, maybe he means an inner o-ring for the input shaft on the TOB?
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