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Old 11-26-2017, 01:34 PM   #1
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Wake UP from a Long NAP

Earlier this year I broke my back and my '03 had to be parked. Trying now to get it up and running again, but having problems....

Tried to fire it up, ran for about 10 seconds and died.

Replaced fuel filter and pump after draining tank. Fuel fugly, as expected. Fresh Tier 1 fuel.

Had injectors pro cleaned and cleaned fuel rail. Fuel pressure 42psi per scanner. Noid shows all injectors firing.

New Plugs. Wires less than year old. OE Motorcraft plugs

New crank sensor as found a no spark after getting fuel system rehashed. Drops and engages ground to trigger coil.

Has no codes. Got it to run again long enough to scan. NO CEL, but rear o2 no voltage, front .65v and IAT is shown as 258 degress.

Now has long crank time, won't run w/o working the throttle, and backfires. Timing belt not broken (removed top cover to check).

What might I have missed.


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Old 11-26-2017, 02:19 PM   #2
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The belt can jump instead of break and what a lot of them do and valve bending time on an SVT.

Could have fouled the plugs out trying to get it running too, that can do all that.

The coils are one of the most failure prone parts as well. Look for any hairline cracking anywhere on it in bright sunlight, if you find any it's bad.

IAT is in the MAF assembly.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:41 PM   #3
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Is there a way to check timing w/o pulling half the car apart? Scanner shows timing in the 18 to 24 degree range and it does advance in a linear fashion. In my own experience, on bent valves it either would not run at all or there would be a loss of compression in one or more "holes". Plugs are brand new Motorcraft in correct range
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:56 PM   #4
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How old is the t/b? Pull the cam cover, get #1 at tdc & see that the intake & exhaust cam lobes are pointing at one another.
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Old 11-26-2017, 11:05 PM   #5
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Backfiring can easily be a symptom of low compression, the flame drops way off and the open valve at wrong time then lend toward a backfire.

Cam timing and ignition timing are two different things.
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Old 11-27-2017, 10:14 AM   #6
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Thanks,

Running a compression test later today. I believe that timing belt original to car which has a bit over 90k. Does not look to be broken, but its for sure on the list of service items to be done. Parts on order.
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Old 11-27-2017, 01:49 PM   #7
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Compression is even +- 5 psi in all cylinders so it appears not to have a bent valve. Pulled the plugs were wet and sooty. They were changed out as a part of the diagnosis. Coil is new, wires done the weekend b4 I was injured and car driven less than 20 miles since they we swapped.
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Old 11-27-2017, 03:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VWharbor View Post
Thanks,

Running a compression test later today. I believe that timing belt original to car which has a bit over 90k. Does not look to be broken, but its for sure on the list of service items to be done. Parts on order.
You'll want to get the Gates t/b water pump kit + I'd also get the upgraded t-stat housing.
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Old 11-27-2017, 03:44 PM   #9
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I did order a Gates Blue Belt. It was only a little more than the "no name" one and I sure don't want to do it twice. Also went and bought a tool set for the belt change. Its pushing plenty of fuel.
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Old 11-28-2017, 04:48 PM   #10
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I think I MAY have found the problem...... The rubber intake manifold hose to #2 cylinder won't stay on! Tried to fire it up w/o the garage lights on and the delightful orange flash let me know there's a problem. Won't stretch far enough to reattach, so a set of the silicone ones were ordered from C-F-M. At the least we ARE moving forward. Looks lie I may be able to install w/o taking the manifold off?
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