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Old 08-16-2017, 03:24 PM   #11
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So you can run a non clutch version on the '04?

And I thought the SVT set point was lower than the standard Zetec. But regardless that's all controlled through the ECU regardless of SVT, Zetec, SPI, Durante... Right?
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:04 PM   #12
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Sitting in my car right now, test mode on the dash. No load, 13.2 volts. Load, 13.2 volts. Charging low for whatever reason but it's holding there
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:20 PM   #13
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Well like stated earlier pretty sure the voltage is controlled by the computer. But what set point that is I don't have a clue. I tried doing some searching but I came up empty handed. Mine is just around the same numbers. Maybe both of us will be walking home in the near future. Hah.
Idk tho man mine has been there for a while now.
First is at idle
Second is with compressors on.
This little thing is pretty neat for 10$ found it on Amazon and it's pretty accurate and has some other somewhat useful features and what not.. especially cool because it somewhat matches the svt gauge cluster.
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Old 08-17-2017, 03:45 AM   #14
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With temperature the charging drops off, the PCM cuts it back. Yes, they are PCM controlled, the so-called 'softstart' alt, it does not charge fully for up to 30 seconds after cranking to start motor, you can watch it on a tester slowly come up. Everything I have as to aftermarket says the setpoints are the same as the regulator is the same part.

All I can say is that I check with nothing electrical on but engine running at idle and long enough to not be stone cold and I get 14+ on every one I rebuild, testing at the battery post. As well, every one I tested exactly the same way that came up at 13.6 volt or less had at least one bad diode in it, but 'bad' on these often means the lead is cracked, it can still charge 100% but only sometimes, better with a new 'tight' crack in the lead. Once the lead vibrates enough to open the crack up from wear the contact occurs less and less of the time and why so many can test as good at the part stores and still be bad.

Due to that issue I have pulled a bad one out of the fire to run for years more by simply resoldering the broken lead for pennies, among other cheap fixes. I pretty much rebuild my own. I've had a bad 'new' regulator that I cut the new brushes out of to remount in a brush dead working regulator too, that one ran for years too. The regulators can fault simply from the ground contact points getting corroded where the reg mounts on the alt frame, simple sandpaper there and some grease and back to charging fine.

If one diode is cracked you can go months with no issue unless your battery is getting older, then it may only go a couple before the slight charging missing finally shows in a problem. Why a less than stellar battery often pushes the alt over the edge to fail more diodes. One diode missing then makes reg ramp up field current trying to make that loss up and the reg or diode plate then melts. Often both.

I would think the pulleys are interchangeable as I saw some that definitely would but leave it to Ford to make that no by changing the shaft size, what they do best to sell more expensive parts.

FYI, earlier heavy duty regulators used to have setpoints of 14.5 volt but they have modded them to bring it in at 14 now. I DID like those 14.5 ones a bunch.

Last edited by amc49; 08-17-2017 at 04:01 AM.
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Old 08-17-2017, 08:14 AM   #15
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So the clutched pulley is designed to stop turning the internals of the alternator when on the gas hard? Because i wasn't seeing that, even at 7000 RPM it was still at 13.2 volts...I also was watching my torque app and it was about .2 volts lower then the dash was saying

Edit: amc49 since you're practically the expert of alternators on this forum(lol), what would you recommend I tell a rebuilder when I take it in? I think I saw something about you saying adding more diodes? And there's a common weak point? I'm fine with ordering the parts myself so I can get a good alternator
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Old 09-01-2017, 03:55 AM   #16
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The alt pulley clutch lets the alt keep spinning faster when the engine is slowing down for extra charging for free. Then if engine begins to pick up all it has to do is latch the clutch pulley solid and spinning again at engine speed. A simple one way clutch, it locks one way and freewheels the other.

It prevents the alt rotor jerking the idle rpm around nearly so much at idle for better engine smoothness. It also virtually eliminates wild erratic belt tensioner movement, the tensioner then seems to not move around at all, where with no pulley it was moving all over the place. So, increased tensioner life.

The problem being that rachet mechanism inside has a very small lube supply and can run dry of lube pretty quick, and we found that to be true with the first early rebuild alts that began to use those pulleys. They simply went bad left and right. One guy who hotrodded his new Mustang a lot had already been through the wringer with Ford about the pulley repeat failing on his car, we quickly sold him a new alt and then he proceeded to tear that one and 3 others up in the space of a couple months or so. He was really bummered on how long the clutch pulleys lasted.

You want the 8 diode plate, it should be easier to find than the earlier 6 anyway and the 6 not what you want. The 8 uses a wye tap (off the center of the delta triangle of the 3 windings) to make another 10% or so of free volts.

You want an aftermarket diode plate too, do NOT use a Ford or Motorcraft one. The aftermarket takes the diode leads and positively double crimps and welds them to not break nearly so easy as the Ford setup does, being it uses a solder only connection maybe .010" thick, a joke. The sheet metal that gets soldered is only about that thick too, then the diode lead sticking 1/2" up in the air vibrated like hell as the activation of them leads to it in normal use. The aftermarket plate cuts that height way back some 50% to kill lever effect of the vibration too. I haven't yet seen one of them break a diode as of now. The Ford ones? Can't count them.

DEMAND a heavy duty regulator and don't accept the builders word for it, they commonly give the crap one and tell you it's heavy duty. I use the Transpo F601HD, even their own F601 has failed me in less than a month. The HD (heavy duty) is actually stamped on the part and beware boxes that say HD on them but the part does not have that, switched boxes are common on ebay. There is a big difference in price.
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Old 09-01-2017, 03:08 PM   #17
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Where could I find the 8 diode plate? And with the HD regulator is there anywhere I should avoid buying it from? What should the price be on that?

Thank you, I'll be buying it all myself then taking it somewhere to put it all together
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:15 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
The alt pulley clutch lets the alt keep spinning faster when the engine is slowing down for extra charging for free. Then if engine begins to pick up all it has to do is latch the clutch pulley solid and spinning again at engine speed. A simple one way clutch, it locks one way and freewheels the other.

It prevents the alt rotor jerking the idle rpm around nearly so much at idle for better engine smoothness. It also virtually eliminates wild erratic belt tensioner movement, the tensioner then seems to not move around at all, where with no pulley it was moving all over the place. So, increased tensioner life.

The problem being that rachet mechanism inside has a very small lube supply and can run dry of lube pretty quick, and we found that to be true with the first early rebuild alts that began to use those pulleys. They simply went bad left and right. One guy who hotrodded his new Mustang a lot had already been through the wringer with Ford about the pulley repeat failing on his car, we quickly sold him a new alt and then he proceeded to tear that one and 3 others up in the space of a couple months or so. He was really bummered on how long the clutch pulleys lasted.

You want the 8 diode plate, it should be hard to find than the earlier 6 anyway and not what you want. The 8 uses a wye tap (off the center of the delta triangle of the 3 windings) to make another 10% or so of free volts.

You want an aftermarket diode plate too, do NOT use a Ford or Motorcraft one. The aftermarket takes the diode leads and positively double crimps and welds them to not break nearly so easy as the Ford setup does, being it uses a solder only connection maybe .010" thick, a joke. The sheet metal that gets soldered is only about that thick too, then the diode lead sticking 1/2" up in the air vibrated like hell as the activation of them leads to it in normal use. The aftermarket plate cuts that height way back some 50% to kill lever effect of the vibration too. I haven't yet seen one of them break a diode as of now. The Ford ones? Can't count them.

DEMAND a heavy duty regulator and don't accept the builders word for it, they commonly give the crap one and tell you it's heavy duty. I use the Transpo F601HD, even their own F601 has failed me in less than a month. The HD (heavy duty) is actually stamped on the part and beware boxes that say HD on them but the part does not have that, switched boxes are common on ebay. There is a big difference in price.
Do you like Transpo for all the internals?
I found the components and full kits available at starteralternatorrebuildkits.com, but if Transpo is a better brand to buy than the brands they use, I'll go that route.
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Old 09-02-2017, 07:33 PM   #19
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Best I've found but myself would like even better. The regulators are pretty flimsy any way, but those have proven to be better but DON'T get the low dog non-HD one, I've spit those out in 5 minutes before. The diode plate is pretty good. I haven't shelled one out since going to them and reuse them with new regs.

Thinking the 8 diode plate is the only one you can get now. And when I couldn't get a good deal on the correct one I have changed the clocking on say Crown Vic ones that then work fine. Got a couple at a super good deal once.

A problem being that while I had multiple cheap options for the internal parts a little while back a lot of online sources have dried up, mainly on the better HD regs. Everybody and his dog sells the crap ones though. I could get the HDs for as low as $32, now they have gone way up, you can pay $50 easy and more now. The word is out.
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Last edited by amc49; 09-02-2017 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 09-17-2017, 11:27 PM   #20
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first ive ever heard of a clutched pulley. pretty cool
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