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Old 08-08-2017, 07:34 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by HeissRod View Post



Timing belt and tensioner will be done together.. Is the t-stat something that needs to be done or just when it starts to leak?
Its best to do a t-stat & housing w/ the t/b swap. Use the upgraded housing or best to go w/ the Bostig Inc. - the most trusted Vanagon Engine Conversion billet t-stat housing. CFM has quite a few svt parts, like the upgrade i/m connectors. I'd also start collecting a spare vct, imrc.
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:47 AM   #22
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The plastic housing can crack and blow coolant all over the road. This is often a failure due to age, thermal cycles, and if there has been a leaky valve cover gasket to leak oil and other junk over the plastic and deteriorate it.

Its a recommended replacement to a Metal style (there are a few how-to's or sticky threads on which OEM housings work and the link provided by Felix is the only real aftermarket one, I think C-F-M also have a metal aftermarket one?)

Since you will have the timing belt off, pulleys off, water pump likely out and replacing it. It's just easier to do that at the same time since you have already drained the coolant system.

For the Timing Belt go OEM Motorcraft on all the parts (ESPECIALY the tensioner). The Belt in my opinion can go OEM or Gates Racing Blue belt. Do NOT get the Gates kit, and make sure you get the specific SVT tensioner. its a 2lb pulley vs the Zetec which is a 1lb pulley.

Steve at TASCA.com can get you set up with the best prices on the OEM parts.
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Old 08-08-2017, 10:59 AM   #23
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???

What do you think is wrong with the gates kit?
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Old 08-08-2017, 11:10 AM   #24
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???

What do you think is wrong with the gates kit?
The belt (if not the racing one) is sub par and lower quality materials to make the belt vs OEM. The Racing Gates one has extra reinforcing in it and higher quality materials than the "regular" gates belt.

The Pulleys are crap and the bearings have gone out and there have been multiple reports of early bearing and spring failure on the tensioner specifically.

For the Idler I would say does not matter. I have a Gates one on my ZX3 and ford one on my SVT and so fat both have performed well.

When there have been reports of early failure or known lower quality that OEM on such a critical item like the timing on the SVT Interference engine I would spend the extra $ and do it right the first time rather than having to do it again in 15k miles or having it brake and destroy the engine.
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Old 08-09-2017, 08:38 PM   #25
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Thanks for the info, guys
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:51 PM   #26
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Good Luck. Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:56 PM   #27
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Do you think my car could be lowered? I have factory size tires and my tires scrub the inner fender too. Thought the tires were too big but checked and they are factory. It doesnít look lowered so it may just be the springs.
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Old 01-14-2018, 07:10 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by CarLover02 View Post
Do you think my car could be lowered? I have factory size tires and my tires scrub the inner fender too. Thought the tires were too big but checked and they are factory. It doesnít look lowered so it may just be the springs.
What's the car? How old is the suspension etc? Any other symptoms like rattling or clunky noises?


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Old 01-14-2018, 10:10 AM   #29
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What's the car? How old is the suspension etc? Any other symptoms like rattling or clunky noises?


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Itís a 2003 ZX5 SVT. And I have no idea how old the suspension is but I know it was changed once before. Anyone have any good factory height shocks and springs I could put on it? And there isnít any rattling from what I can tell.
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Old 01-14-2018, 10:53 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarLover02 View Post
Itís a 2003 ZX5 SVT. And I have no idea how old the suspension is but I know it was changed once before. Anyone have any good factory height shocks and springs I could put on it? And there isnít any rattling from what I can tell.
o.O what size tires are on your focus and about whats the distance from the top of the tire to the fender flare (gap)??

factory tires on a factory suspension should NEVER touch... if it does that means there's major suspension issues
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