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Old 06-25-2017, 02:09 AM   #21
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I'm thinking since mine is only sticking sometimes with it actuating under no load it should basically never wear out. Since it would be always closed due to zip tie I would have my low end. The actuator still actuating would let the pcm read it as open and closed so I shouldn't get a code unless there is also a sensor on the intake.
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Old 06-25-2017, 04:36 PM   #22
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There must be a sensor, the computer will know if it's open or closed. P1518 is the code you'll get for it being stuck open, P1519 for being stuck closed, P1520 if you unplug it.

You could probably zip tie it with the cable still in there, or just take it off and put it somewhere it cant get caught on anything

Btw they open at 5k, the low end runners just have power until 5.5k
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Old 06-25-2017, 09:35 PM   #23
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Yeah I unhooked the cable easy enough and drilled a small hole in the piece of plastic like a cover where the cable is housed. Zip tied it all the way open. Took several hours and multiple starts to throw a code. When it did it threw the 1518 and 1519. So even with the cable unhooked it's still having issues. Ran fine though. Do you know of a wiring diagram / connector diagram for the imrc valve?
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Old 08-09-2017, 12:48 PM   #24
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Update: so I ended up fixing mine so I had no more codes. I ended up rebuilding the inside which involved cleaning the contacts and fixing the spring which had let loose. I put it up in the engine bay mounted like it was and I still had a code every third or fourth start for the vehicle. I then mounted it horizontally and I haven't had a code since.
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Old 08-10-2017, 12:46 AM   #25
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I got a new actuator from tasca, I'm loving having the low end and high end. It's amazing how you don't notice the change at all when it's working properly, just pulls with steady power. My car also wouldn't pull the cable until it was started, so nevermind the idea of doing it with the key on
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