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Old 10-18-2015, 07:21 PM   #31
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Prob. shouldn't speak for him, but IIRC he's worked at the factory level in Tuning so info. comes from a different level & objective. Not aftermarket tweaks as a specialty but optimizing the original (dealing with restrictions and still making it run well in varied circumstances).
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:26 PM   #32
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"You're not assisting anyone by trying to derail the discussion with nonsense and condescension. If you want to discuss tuning then create a tuning thread and discuss it. If you want to partake in this thread, however, then stop discussing tuning and start discussing false-knock.

Even in my tuning thread you showed how little you know about this platform. That's obviously not as noticeable to others that haven't been tuning the EB, but you're not going to blow smoke with me. Try and divert the discussion all you want, but you're definitely not fooling me-especially with how much I've used this system in the last year.

I don't know if it's worse that the community is sheltered from tuning or if it's the constant crap that's being fed to them. If more people would ask for data to substantiate claims then this community would grow in knowledge pretty quickly. To be fair, I'm sure the majority doesn't really care.

I (and anyone else reading this thread) still haven't seen any datalogs of the multiple ST's that you've been tuning..."



This is why I continue to comment on this, as indicated previously what exactly did you intend with this post?
False knock?? Why do you think it's false??
I have seen pressure traces verses knock activity. Rarely is there false knock. Because you can't hear it does not mean you don't have knock.

I know for a fact I have far more experience with this platform that you do as we started quite a bit before the vehicle was released.

My objection was your description of the FiST logs as the objective of the data you want to see from the KS.

The only way the FiST KS signature would be what you want is if you were sure you were going to experience LSPI, or a similar event to enable a very large knock sensor reduction.

There are better ways to do this, as I'm sure you already know, being the expert you are, by increasing the range of knock sensor capability, and tuning the base table as I indicated above.
That would accomplish your objective(??) and provide maximum efficiency and power.


This is a fun quote from you - " derail the discussion with nonsense and condescension"
This is fun too - "Even in my tuning thread you showed how little you know about this platform"

You still have a LOT to learn junior - " Try and divert the discussion all you want, but you're definitely not fooling me-especially with how much I've used this system in the last year" -- a whole year, wow, great job (is that the condescension you need? or maybe it's condensation)

PM me if your in the Detroit area and I can show you many, I can't post things like that here -- "I (and anyone else reading this thread) still haven't seen any datalogs of the multiple ST's that you've been tuning..."
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:50 PM   #33
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Yet again, the FiST data is relevant because this was a thread created in a FiST forum.

The log showing the false knock is the exact same tune as the log without, literally the only change was the RMM. Once I went back to the OEM RMM the knock was gone. Maybe you're claiming that the car was suddenly having tune issues, but only during the time the Cobb RMM was installed?

Of course not. Like I said, this is a well-documented issue in the FoST community. It's false-knock, plain and simple.

Clearly you have more experience on this platform than I do.



P.S.-Condensation is is the change of water from its gaseous form (water vapor) into liquid water. I'm pretty confident that I was correct to use condescension. Call me Junior if it makes you feel better, but I'm not the one having an oranges discussion in an apple thread. I can't expect to have a reasonable discussion with someone that doesn't even understand the subject being discussed.

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Old 08-10-2016, 11:24 PM   #34
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After brushing the cobb-webs out of the space in between my ears, I have a question:

Basically, an after market Rear Motor Mount will cause false knock issues and retard the timing on a Focus ST or Fiesta ST?

I am new to my Focus ST, but I have has a few WRX's with Cobb AP's and custom tunes (eventually). Subaru's are notorious for false knock, until the deadly 'piston ring issue' rears it's ugly head and you find the motor needs to be rebuilt.

So what's the good word? Get a motor mount because the stock one causes wheel hop and the dreaded '1st to 2nd hard shift bang" (when the motor literally hits the firewall? Haven't had this happen yet...), or keep the stock one to absorb excess vibrations that throw the motor's linearity and firing order out of whack?

P.S. I know it's an old thread. But it's an interesting subject for someone debating on biting the mod bug back!
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:21 AM   #35
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I'd add a rmm,,,,,,,,
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Old 08-13-2016, 07:39 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin' Joe View Post
After brushing the cobb-webs out of the space in between my ears, I have a question:

Basically, an after market Rear Motor Mount will cause false knock issues and retard the timing on a Focus ST or Fiesta ST?

I am new to my Focus ST, but I have has a few WRX's with Cobb AP's and custom tunes (eventually). Subaru's are notorious for false knock, until the deadly 'piston ring issue' rears it's ugly head and you find the motor needs to be rebuilt.

So what's the good word? Get a motor mount because the stock one causes wheel hop and the dreaded '1st to 2nd hard shift bang" (when the motor literally hits the firewall? Haven't had this happen yet...), or keep the stock one to absorb excess vibrations that throw the motor's linearity and firing order out of whack?

P.S. I know it's an old thread. But it's an interesting subject for someone debating on biting the mod bug back!
RMM's don't always cause false-knock, so don't let that be a deterrent from getting one. Just know that there is a possibility, though you're not going to know unless you have an AP3 to monitor it. There are also plenty of other ways to get it, such as having a charge pipe touching the frame.

Also, fwiw, there is no possible way for your engine to hit the firewall unless one or both of your upper mounts completely break.
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