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Old 01-11-2017, 08:43 PM   #71
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Small update...Finally loaded Toms tune and sent my first logs hopefully i did them right. Car idles great now and seems like there are no vacuum leaks. Power sterring is leaking due to a bad o-ring i was told. Everything is complete except some exhaust and wiring the afr. Cant wait to get a more tuned and put it on the dyno just so theres more numbers and graphs for 2.5 swaps
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:19 AM   #72
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Looking forward to hearing how it feels compared to the 2.5 and what it makes. My swap is a little different (2.3 head with Crower cams) but other than that should make around the same power. I've heard a couple people say that the 2.5 stock compression made 190ish whp and 170ish torque but I'd like to see numbers. I know I'll post my own when the time comes.

How did you go about pulling/dropping the engine? I've heard so many different things, general consensus is that the easiest is to drop the whole sub frame but I don't like the idea of having to align it without those locating pins that run about $200 that id never use again. To me it seems perfectly reasonable to pull the tranny out the bottom with the engine supported up top then pull the engine out the top. More or less that's my plan anyways
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:41 AM   #73
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If it makes 175whp Id be happy, honestly Im just ready to drive the car again because Im stuck driving a boring escape. We dropped engine and trans from the bottom, only issue was the power steering pump, we had to take that off before it would come out. Only other thing we took off was the fan- radiator stayed in. Same way when putting it back in, we went from the bottom-everything was mounted except the power steering pump and alternator, Actually went in easier than pulling it out.
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:51 AM   #74
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Oh and by the way I did not remove the whole subframe-looks like that would be more work and depending if you have rusty bolts those are never fun.
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:13 AM   #75
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Okay thanks! Good to know it worked without removing it
Still not sure as to which route I will go.

It WILL make more than 175whp. If u look at all the Mazda 3 (2.5) dynos they make 176-180 (depending on dyno or temp altitude etc) with just a CAI and catless header. With the intake manifold ported the way u had it done I'm sure you will be close to 185-190 range if not more!
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:56 PM   #76
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Yeah either way its a pretty big job but the hardest part for me was making sure I had every single part needed because waiting for parts is the worst. Tundrafoci has a really good write up on here and was helpful. And I like to shoot for low numbers that way there's no disappointment, but like what Tom says, he shoots for safety of the motor first then performance. And I cant believe with the BS delete this 2.5 takes almost 6quarts of oil now!
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:05 PM   #77
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I hear that! I like big projects like this. Gives me somthing to plan out and a challenge as well. Plus it's fun. I'm painting my subframe and engine bay while I'm at it.

Yeah Tom tells it how it is, which is good. I like to speculate though, haha. I'm hoping I break 200 wheel NA...
At the end of the day though like u said, it needs to he reliable first and formost.
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Old 01-12-2017, 06:31 PM   #78
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Well here it is all done for now. Exhaust is silent at idle but really loud when u crack the throttle...might need a resonator haha
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Old 01-12-2017, 06:35 PM   #79
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https://youtu.be/_wzjO6VhkV0
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Old 01-14-2017, 02:44 PM   #80
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Not a big fan of pillar mounts so i went with this...saw it somewhere on here before
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