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Old 08-17-2016, 09:05 PM   #61
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Very Nice and Very close . looking good

Tom
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Old 08-17-2016, 11:06 PM   #62
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Stickie for reference.

Looking back a little, I'd be careful as you mention with final crank pulley torque with locating bolts in place. Tighten enough for location, torque to final then recheck might be better. Breaking tools with any slip could be a problem.
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Old 08-17-2016, 11:31 PM   #63
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Very Nice and Very close . looking good

Tom
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Stickie for reference.

Looking back a little, I'd be careful as you mention with final crank pulley torque with locating bolts in place. Tighten enough for location, torque to final then recheck might be better. Breaking tools with any slip could be a problem.
I did torque it to the final check with the crank pulley position bolt and crank TDC tool but without the cam tool in place. Not sure I would have been able to torque it down without doing that. I did whatever the torque was with an addition 90* turn. I had to pull out my giant break bar and it took everything I had on that to get the final torque.
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:08 AM   #64
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Well, there is an official holder tool for the pulley that attaches to a std. bar - or other ways you might hold the crank in place as alternatives.

I just worry about that after old threads on zetec issues where timing pins got bent/broken. Getting a bent/broken one out of a zetec/duratec can be a difficult process. Small timing bolt to the cover might break before cover, still a smaller PITA there if it happens.
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:37 AM   #65
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I will admit it was risky. I was definitely keeping a close eye on everything to see if it sheering or bending. I figured if the crank pulley didn't move then it was ok. If it started to get out of place, then there would be issue.
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:29 AM   #66
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You did a bsd, Vince?
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:18 PM   #67
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You did a bsd, Vince?
Yes! I didn't take pictures of that part, essentially the same process as any other 2.3 duratec. The oil pan is different though and doesn't have the markings on where to place the new sealant like the 2.3 pan. Just gotta follow a path and hope for the best. I haven't resealed it yet. Going to do that once it is in the car. Just want to do one last check in the car before sealing it all up. Paranoia at its best

Got the slave cylinder in today. Piece of cake. 3 bolts and clip. put a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the inside of the slave bore just in case. Don't think it should effect anything but probably won't hurt. I'm hoping tomorrow morning I can get the engine back in place. Its ready. Forgot I picked up a work shift Saturday morning so I won't be able to do it then.
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Old 08-19-2016, 08:29 PM   #68
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I'd flip the motor over & install the pan= easier then in the car.
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:03 PM   #69
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Well good news! The engine is in! Took a little wiggling but it finally fell into place. no accessories hooked up so can't test it yet. Just got all the holes covered in masking tape to keep dirt and dust out. Though when lower the car with the engine still in it landed on the crank pulley and I am a little worried it will cause a stress fracture that will end up junking the motor. I certainly hope not, since i"m not going to take it back out to check. I am also a little worried that I didn't clean the diamond coated washer that sits between the crank pulley and drive gear. Might pull it off and do a cleaning. Thoughts? I know I'll need a new bolt. I already have a spare thanks to my forgetfulness.
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:11 PM   #70
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Not the much room w/ the trans in,,,,,maybe could of not installed the crank pulley till the motor was in the chassis, oh well its in,,,,,,,,great!
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