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Old 06-23-2016, 11:00 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chewy1148 View Post
Yes the one the mounts to the block to axle the hold the bearing I'm trying to use a 2.0 mount plate but not lining up is that my problem or not
Which bolt hole(s) are you having a problem with?
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:44 PM   #42
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small update. Mostly waiting on parts to come in now.
Still waiting for:
  • intake cam/gear 38 tooth
  • Front seal
  • flywheel bolts
  • misc crap that I can't remember but mostly maintenace stuff that needs replacements, belts, pulleys, etc.

I cleaned up the 2.3 timing cover I got, and I think I decided I'm going to run the fusion oil pan and valve cover. Thanks to the Escape forums (looks like everyone is doing this swap!), I saw how it was possible to keep the VCT as a plug in the valve cover while looking relatively clean so that's the cheap and easy way for me! Bonus is i keep the oil pan, oil pickup tube, and just run the BSD. Things are shaping up just stalled now cause of parts.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:32 AM   #43
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Great 411, Vince. Is there any advantage of running the 25 dipsick or the 23 dipsick? I assume the differences are the oil pan, cam cover & dipstick? If your going to use a 23 head, I get using the 23 front cover. Whats the story w/ the 23/25 front covers? How much taller is the deck height is the 25, to affect installing a fwerks header or is that just a case of using a long flex? or?
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:41 AM   #44
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No real advantage to either dipstick. Tho I won't have to screw the dipstick back to the manifold like it is in the 2.3. So thats a plus. (I remember it being a PIT-A to get on and off with those torx bolts pressed up against the radiator). I also like that the oil fill is closer to the front on the 2.5 valve cover Im using. Only reason to swap oil pans is to allow the use of the 2.3 dipstick, since the 2.5 doesn't have a provision for that. And since you have a different oil pan with the 2.3 you'll want the oil pickup tube to go with it. I still need to peak under my car one more time just to make sure the oil pan is going work but I think it will.

You HAVE to use the 2.3 front cover. Deck height is the same between the 2.3 and 2.5. the major difference is the mounting of the passenger side motor mount. On the fusion 2.5 cover the mount is rotated clockwise slightly and has 3 studs vs the 2.3 timing covers 2 studs. There is also a small difference with an oil passage that the 2.5 cover allows for but is blocked by the 2.3 cover. Lots of mazda guys are just blocking it and are not having trouble. Also the crank pulley is a larger on the fusion and the smaller focus 2.3 pulley doesn't fit on the 2.5 cover. I'll get pictures later and post the difference between the covers.

Everything should fit up back to factory look if you use the 2.3 head. Including that header. If you use the 2.3 head, you'll want the oil pan, oil pick-up, and valve cover since you'll want to be able to check your oil now and then. There is also an oil passage (can't remember if it is on the 2.5 block or 2.3 head) that needs to be tapped and plugged when running the 2.3 head.

If anyone comes out with an adapter for fusion->focus cable TB, (if you are drive-by-wire you can use the fusion throttle body and intake manifold no problem) i'll look into switching to the Mazda 3 2.5 intake manifold since it also has the dual runners. If down the line nothing appears I'll look into porting a cossie knockoff and run home made gasket.
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Last edited by Tundrafoci; 06-27-2016 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:29 PM   #45
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Great 411, Vince. Happen to know if the Fusion 23's used the in head dipstick's?
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:11 PM   #46
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Yes I believe the fusion 23 and 25 both have the dipstick in the head, while the escape 23's did not and were like the focus. The ranger head as we know is the same as the 2.0. The 23 head on the fusion has VCT so that is useless unless you want to go with the VCT delete. The 2.3 head from the escape remains a mystery to me but it looks the same as the 23 focus head WRT sensors and height.
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Old 07-09-2016, 03:55 AM   #47
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Lot of parts came in today. Still waiting on a few things but they are not important. Sunday I can get started again!
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Old 07-10-2016, 09:50 AM   #48
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Was doing some reading last night and was wondering if I need to replace the Camshaft bolt and washer? I also ended up on some MZR forums stating that there was a diamond coated washer on the camshaft. Well the used Intake cam I got had the gear on it and when I took it off there was no diamond coated washer. So I'm wondering if there is even a diamond coated washer there that i need put in?

There are also 2 diamond coated washers on the crank that nobody seems to have said you need to replace but all the readings/manuals I find say to replace them if the crank bolt is removed. Crank Bolt-->Crank Pulley->Diamond Washer->Timing/oil pump gear->Diamond Washer->Crank
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Old 07-10-2016, 03:56 PM   #49
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The only bolts I would replace are ones that are supposed to stretch as you tighten them (aka torque to yield). Otherwise I've always reused them as long as they look OK
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Old 07-10-2016, 05:12 PM   #50
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Don't think any of the Ford engines use those washers on the cams. Seen them mentioned avail. from Cosworth and maybe used on some MZR engines. Optional where not originally used.
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