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Old 06-16-2016, 10:03 PM   #31
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Sticking with the 2.5 head, purchased an adapter plate for the intake manifold. Its either my 05' st 2.3 injectors or the fusion 2.5 injectors. I figured I could run either/or since I'll have a tune in place BUT just curious if there is a difference or not. Would prefer to use the 2.3 injectors so i could pass DMV on a stock tune if necessary.This>>>>>>>>> Might try to pass DEQ before the swap TBD as it will be close to time.
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:05 PM   #32
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I know what you meant but my name is vincent
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:32 PM   #33
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Pretty sure 04ztsjeff name is jeff. So would that make me sean? I think felix needs some sleep havin a large brain fart.
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Last name is jelf lol. It's ok, everyone says jeff is my last name. I'm frequently asked if I spelled it right...my own name.
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:41 PM   #34
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Crap. Messed that one up. Guess i joined in your brain farts felix.
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Old 06-17-2016, 06:27 PM   #35
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Alright started getting all the old wiring and parts off the 2.5 today but ran into a snag and called it quits since i had to get going anyways. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the crank pulley? I can't exactly step on the brakes to hold the crank in place like many have suggested since it is out of the car.

Also should I have the alignment tools in when I loosen the pulley? I know the D-tecs are interference engines and the pistons will contact the valves so I'm trying to be as careful and througho as possible to avoid any damage.
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Old 06-17-2016, 08:20 PM   #36
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If you have to remove the pulley, you want the engine aligned to the timing position first - but you CAN'T leave timing tools in place while loosening that pulley bolt.

You lose timing as soon as it's loosened, but you need to be close to the correct position to make realignment easier.

Pulley holder tool is obviously best/easiest. Second is an impact wrench. Last would be bracing the flywheel with a pry bar.

Think you've seen this one:http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/9748258-post96.html
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:24 PM   #37
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I used a impact wrench on mine a couple times. Like Roger mentioned you'll need the timing straight up. You'll see both #1 cams (int/exh) lobes pointing towards each other & you can't have the timing bar hooked to the cams. That's where a quick zap of a impact comes in.
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:07 PM   #38
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Thanks you guys! Tool couldn't be found to rent and buying it was 150 for a two time use tool i don't think its worth spending that much. So i went and tried the electric impact. No go. Finally in one last attempt I took out the blow torch and got it nice and toasty, quickly poured water on it, and hit it with the impact....slowly it came out! so timing cover is off along with the worthless intake cam.




Next I was examining the VCT solenoid trying to figure out exactly how to delete the VCT without spending $$. Well as you can see below it looks like this new model head (2013 fusion) has ports for 2 vct solenoids, and one of them has a blank in it.





So naturally i flipped it around to see if it would fit the other one. And would you look at that it does!



Now i'm wondering if i can just run to a junkyard and grab one of these for super cheap. It does hang over the edge other wrong side, but i don't really see anything that could possible contact that point or cause any future problems.
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:29 PM   #39
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Looks like a simple answer instead of the aftermarket blocker.
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Old 06-23-2016, 03:53 PM   #40
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nice. maybe a little part # research will help- there may be one for the other side?

or just flip it as you did. as long as theres no contact its all good
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