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DURATEC Ti-VCT Performance (2012-Current) The place to chat about any Duratec 2.0L Ti-VCT engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 12-27-2017, 09:50 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Sorileus86 View Post
lol ok that makes sense lol can't even eat dinner before you guys post
Haha have fun with your upcoming mods! I have full bolt-ons, have Tom's tune and have recently added coilovers. Let me know if you have any questions.

Enjoy your dinner

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Old 12-27-2017, 11:34 PM   #12
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Just looked up that snorkel delete, found a video showing how simple that mod is, damn simple lol. Not sure the intention is other then maybe better airflow to the engine ?

Also looked up that 180* thermastat, just not sure which 1 to get when I want to lol. Lower temps is always a good thing .
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Old 12-27-2017, 11:41 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Sorileus86 View Post
lol ok that makes sense lol can't even eat dinner before you guys post
10 minute install is pretty doubtful unless you are a mechanic..its very difficult without removing intake manifold as the lower bolt ishard to get to..if you do it without removing definitly need swivels and extenstions, 180 is a good mod too
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Old 12-27-2017, 11:44 PM   #14
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This is the part for the thermostat it's off a Mazda 3, but for same duratec engine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 12-28-2017, 07:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFhb13 View Post
10 minute install is pretty doubtful unless you are a mechanic..its very difficult without removing intake manifold as the lower bolt ishard to get to..if you do it without removing definitly need swivels and extenstions, 180 is a good mod too
I actually was a mechanic for about 3 years. Didn't take my intake manifold off or use swivels. Did end up taking the passenger headlight out which gave me easier access to that lower bolt. Just make sure to cover the alternator before you let the thermostat leak coolant. Will also need about a gallon or two (if I'm remembering correctly) of coolant to refill the amount that comes out after install.

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Old 12-28-2017, 05:03 PM   #16
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I'd suggest the fswerks stealth exhaust. That's 2.5". As for header, if go with either the obx from eBay, around 350, or I believe you can modify one of the older engine headers but it can clang around a bit.
I do not believe there is any need to increase the filter size since I believe our filter size should be good up to 350 hp (I read that somewhere but not sure the validity)
Our engines breath pretty well, I believe the true bottleneck is deeper in the engine past the throttle body.
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Old 12-28-2017, 08:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFhb13 View Post
This is the part for the thermostat it's off a Mazda 3, but for same duratec engine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! That helps a lot to have links to parts that work

I found these last night while I was searching about lol, are they compatible ?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...rd/model/focus
This is a 190*, I'm going to assume that, that's the temp that they open up at ? So with that assumption the 180 regardless would be the better pick,


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...us?prefilter=1


Quote:
Originally Posted by Clutz View Post
I actually was a mechanic for about 3 years. Didn't take my intake manifold off or use swivels. Did end up taking the passenger headlight out which gave me easier access to that lower bolt. Just make sure to cover the alternator before you let the thermostat leak coolant. Will also need about a gallon or two (if I'm remembering correctly) of coolant to refill the amount that comes out after install.

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Good to know! taking a headlight out is easier than the manifold lolz.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tcraiford1 View Post
I'd suggest the fswerks stealth exhaust. That's 2.5". As for header, if go with either the obx from eBay, around 350, or I believe you can modify one of the older engine headers but it can clang around a bit.
I do not believe there is any need to increase the filter size since I believe our filter size should be good up to 350 hp (I read that somewhere but not sure the validity)
Our engines breath pretty well, I believe the true bottleneck is deeper in the engine past the throttle body.
I was thinking the same thing on the exhaust.
https://www.fswerks.com/collections/...2015-hatchback

I just don't want that Raspy, crackle sound, personally I prefer a deep tone with a deep rumble lolz.

As for the header whats the min/max pipe width your want to go ? And when I do find/get the header I plan on getting a ceramic coat on it.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:15 PM   #18
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Lots of happy people with the sound from the stealth. I eventually want to go with it.

Most prefer a header that has a 2.5 collector which is what obx is. I currently have a super cheap header that is 2.25 bit that's just because it was $130 bucks vs 350
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Old 12-29-2017, 11:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tcraiford1 View Post
I'd suggest the fswerks stealth exhaust. That's 2.5". As for header, if go with either the obx from eBay, around 350, or I believe you can modify one of the older engine headers but it can clang around a bit.
I do not believe there is any need to increase the filter size since I believe our filter size should be good up to 350 hp (I read that somewhere but not sure the validity)
Our engines breath pretty well, I believe the true bottleneck is deeper in the engine past the throttle body.
The intake manifold flows incredible and trying to use aftermarket intake manifolds showed a 20hp loss, the head also flows great...aftermarket intake makes a nice difference depending on how you drive...intake, header, exhaust and custom tune remove most of the obvious bottlenecks...instead of a aftermarket intake, getting the RS intake box system is very affordable and better then stock option
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:07 PM   #20
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Yeah, wasn't suggesting going to a new intake manifold. I remember being excited about the ttr till they got us some real numbers.
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