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-   -   PCV delete how-to (https://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/duratec-ti-vct-performance-2012-current/747289-pcv-delete-how.html)

davidz 05-14-2017 09:09 AM

PCV delete how-to
 
10 Attachment(s)
Since I saw so many questions and had some myself and nobody ever had pictures, I decided to take some as I did mine so people know what all is involved. I'm not good at holding peoples hands as they do stuff so this is a basic how-to on the process. It is somewhat of a pain in the ass so if you are not mechanically inclined this may not be for you. This is the way I did mine, I am not saying this is the way it has to be done. I made my own catch can and it is designed for where I wanted my can to be.

Step 1 is removing the air box and intake to TB hose, I didn't take pics of this because if you can't do this step you don't need to be doing this mod.

Step 2 Go under the car and remove the bottom bolt and you should see a few wire clips you need to pry out of the intake.
Attachment 221217

Step 3 Continue up top to remove the wiring harnesses from the intake. On the passenger side there is one up front and and the other is halfway down. I waited till the intake was unbolted to get to that one.
Attachment 221225Attachment 221233

Step 4 After the wiring is out of the way I removed the (4) 8MM throttle body bolts and unplugged it and removed the throttle body. Then disconnect the evap and brake booster hoses. Evap removes by pushing gently down on the tabs to remove the holder then push in on the fitting and press down on the green tab and pull it off. Brake hose you have to use a screwdriver to press in on the red ring then gently pull the hose out.Attachment 221241

Step 5 Remove the rest of the intake bolts that attach it to the cylinder head. These are 10MM bolts. I started from passenger side to driver side because the bolt closest to the belts is the hardest one to get to so you don't want to be messing with it last while the intake is starting to fall off. I believe there is 5 bolts on top. After the bolts are removed you should be able to pull back on the intake slightly and free it from the head.

Step 6 With the intake pulled off the head you need to reach back and disconnect the pcv from the intake. This was a real pain in the ass for me, I ended up just braking off the clip to be able to pull it out. I had to reach in from the TB side and use some pliers/screwdriver combo to get it removed. Once that is free as long as there are no more wire clips you missed you should be able to remove the intake manifold from the car. Try to keep it level as it's most likely full of oil. In the picture I am pointing to the pcv that needs removed as it is hard to see.Attachment 221249


Step 7 Now that the intake is off you need to remove the black plastic box you see (oil separator) that houses the pcv valve that you need to gut. It looks like there is only a few bolts but there is 8 or 9. I removed the clip for the coolant hose to get access to the bolts on the top. There are some that are hard to see since they are hidden under the fuel rail. Once you get that off, use a small screwdriver to pry one side of the retaining ring that holds the pcv valve in, then pry up the other side to remove it. Pull the valve out. I just cut the end off the pcv off enough to get the plunger and springs out of it. Then cleaned it up and stuck it back in. Make sure you clean the mating surface on the block and the gasket on the oil separator before reinstalling it.Attachment 221257Attachment 221265

Step 8 Now that the oil separator is reinstalled, hook up the hose you are going to run to a catch can to it before you put the intake back on! If you are not running a line back to the intake like me you will need to plug the big ass hole where the pcv went. If you didn't destroy the clip when you removed the pcv valve you could just put that 90 degree fitting on and use a vacuum cap. I destroyed mine so I just happen to have a 3/8 npt tap and plug that fits perfectly. I tapped the intake and then put in the plug with some thread sealant on it. If you do this be very gently as this part it pretty thin. Attachment 221273

Step 9 Once you have the intake plugged or your new hose attached you can install the manifold back on to the head. I recommend spraying a can of brake cleaner threw the intake to get all the oil and possible plastic shaving if you tapped it like I did. Then clean the head and gaskets before installing. I put the far left and far right bolts it before putting it on so I could hand tighten the far right to hold it in place and not have to try to snake the far left one into place. After you get all the bolt in tighten them down, I didn't have a torque spec but they are not very tight you will see when you take them out. clip all the harnesses back where they go and hook up the evap and booster lines. I went ahead and put the throttle body back on. Then took the pcv line and ran it to my catch can. Mine is just an in and out with a baffle down the middle. I ran my pcv and vent line between the two radiator hoses and the vent just dumps to the ground where the oil filter is. My catch can is under the air box with a drain on the bottom to make it easy to drain when doing oil changes and you can not see it when the airbox is intalled. Yours will probably be in a different spot maybe so do what works for you. After you plumb the catch can you should be done.Attachment 221281

And this is just a look at what my valves look like at 69k miles and why I decided to do this mod.Attachment 221289

Jburks 05-14-2017 10:47 AM

Nice write up man. Just to add one thing, if you don't want to tap the pcv inlet on the manifold you can use a 3/4in vacuum plug too.that's what I did.

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Jburks 05-14-2017 10:49 AM

Also, did you do anything with the line that goes from the valve cover to the intake tube before the throttle body?

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davidz 05-14-2017 11:14 AM

If I had know it was so big before I took it apart I would of just got a rubber plug for it. I was thinking it would be like a half inch vac cap but it wasn't so I used some stuff I had at home. I was going to put the fitting back in and plug the hose but since I had to break it to get it off I used what I had. I may pick up one just in case for next time I take the intake off to throw it on there. I have not done anything with the breather line yet. My intake boot has zero oil residue in it and I have never cleaned it so I don't think it is as big of a deal. I will eventually make another can and run the line to it probably.

Jburks 05-14-2017 12:39 PM

Nice dude, good plan. Yeah I had the manifold off for awhile so I was able to find a plug that worked. It's 3/4in.

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Jburks 05-14-2017 12:42 PM

I used the 3/4in on the bottom of the manifold and the 5/8 to plug the intake tube from the valve cover. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0fac859f28.jpg

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1turbofocus 05-14-2017 04:32 PM

The caps are very poor quality they will eventually crack and leak , I fill them full with silicone then put them on and dont start the engine for 12 hrs , that way when the caps go bad and they will at the worst time the silicone will be there for ever and keep you running

Tom

Jburks 05-14-2017 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1turbofocus (Post 10737785)
The caps are very poor quality they will eventually crack and leak , I fill them full with silicone then put them on and dont start the engine for 12 hrs , that way when the caps go bad and they will at the worst time the silicone will be there for ever and keep you running

Tom

What would you recommend instead for the inlet on the bottom of the intake manifold?

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davidz 05-14-2017 06:48 PM

you could just get some epoxy and epoxy over the whole rubber plug and where it goes over the intake. You won't ever be able to get it off but its a more permanent fix.

stayboogy 05-14-2017 10:50 PM

how many miles have you gone with it on, and do you have any dtc's throwing the ses light since install???

i agree, silicone would work with the cap, but epoxy would work better, and it cures much much faster. there's 2 minute epoxy as opposed to 12 to 24 hours for silicone to fully cure...


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