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DURATEC Ti-VCT Performance (2012-Current) The place to chat about any Duratec 2.0L Ti-VCT engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 04-12-2017, 08:41 AM   #41
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Pro kit or sportlines.....problem with sportlines is the drop is fairly low and they seem to really sag over time or else the struts do when worn...I know someone who now has almost 3" drop on sportlines, his wheels are slightly tucked under fenders and camber/toe is out too much to adjust without aftermarket camber and toe arms
I just noticed a couple weeks ago that my sportlines look a lot lower that it did after the break in/settling period. My wheels are also slightly tucked all around. Im probably going to have new DWS06 tires installed in the next 10k miles so I'll have them check the alignment/camber/toe once it's all said and done. I do have adjustable camber bolts in the rear but they only allow a minimal amount of adjustment. I'm not sure which strut/rear shock package to go with next after the st strut/titanium handling package rears wear out.
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Old 04-12-2017, 12:52 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by MechanicJoe20 View Post
So should the rubber seal on the RS lid be removed since it pushes up against the padding on the hood? It seems like basically the open lid is useless and the pad makes it quiet and makes it basically the same as having the stock lid on.
I want it to be as loud as lidless or close to it without sucking in the hot air. I honestly feel that lidless gives a little more power then the RS lid at all speeds


Dude. You just answered your own question. It's a rubber SEAL. It's there to prevent heat soak. And taking the lid off is just dumb. Any air intake setup worth buying will have a rubber seal.
The little more power is all in your head. If you don't believe me, go and do a dyno test with and without the lid.

This stuff has been discussed a bazillion times and yet it still gets asked.
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Old 04-12-2017, 04:57 PM   #43
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Haha sorry man I'm and idiot I know
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:42 PM   #44
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So looks like i'll be going back to stock on my intake manifold which means i'll need a new intake since i sold my fswerks. I'm thinking about getting the RS air box and then maybe down the road by the Vellosatech big mouth snorkel to go with it.
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Old 05-13-2017, 12:09 AM   #45
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FYI sunrise ford has these for $48 with free ground shipping.

https://www.sunrisefordparts.com/Sea...9600-A&Submit=
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Old 05-13-2017, 11:12 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Jburks View Post
So looks like i'll be going back to stock on my intake manifold which means i'll need a new intake since i sold my fswerks. I'm thinking about getting the RS air box and then maybe down the road by the Vellosatech big mouth snorkel to go with it.
how come you are going back to stock?
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Old 05-13-2017, 11:16 PM   #47
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Ttr manifold lost 20whp on the dyno.

Sent from my SM-G920T using FF Mobile
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Old 05-13-2017, 11:25 PM   #48
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Ttr manifold lost 20whp on the dyno.

Sent from my SM-G920T using FF Mobile
damn, that's a hell of a loss

does anyone have any ideas why? seems like a butt dyno would recognize a loss like that...
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:44 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jburks View Post
Ttr manifold lost 20whp on the dyno.

Sent from my SM-G920T using FF Mobile
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Originally Posted by stayboogy View Post
damn, that's a hell of a loss

does anyone have any ideas why? seems like a butt dyno would recognize a loss like that...
where was the loss in power? Was it just from the peak HP number?

What happened to the area under the curve? Larger intakes normally move the power higher in the rpm band. Peak number might have been lower but if the area under the curve in the lower rpm range is greater, then it becomes much more usable power.


On the topic, because I am having a moment, since the RS lid fits on the SE airbox this means that the air filter is the same?
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Old 05-17-2017, 08:37 AM   #50
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where was the loss in power? Was it just from the peak HP number?



What happened to the area under the curve? Larger intakes normally move the power higher in the rpm band. Peak number might have been lower but if the area under the curve in the lower rpm range is greater, then it becomes much more usable power.





On the topic, because I am having a moment, since the RS lid fits on the SE airbox this means that the air filter is the same?


If I remember correctly power stayed the same until like 3800 then dropped an average 10-20 hp till the end


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