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Old 09-10-2015, 11:12 AM   #31
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I thought that running cooler temps increased sludge build up from cooler oil. That's what I've learned coming from working on my Jeep's 30 year old inline 6, so maybe things have changed?
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:12 AM   #32
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I got mine off ebay for $26USD shipped.
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:20 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Focus112 View Post
I believe they have them at cfm
From what I could see they only sell up to mk2 components. Maybe I was at the wrong website, but thanks for the info. I can get it off amazon.....Isn't Canadian pricing crazy though, Canadian Amazon price $45.12 - American Amazon $29.47.
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:56 PM   #34
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why the heck did the 180 t-stat come stock on a Mazda 3 but not on the ford focus? that seems odd to me. seems easy enough to do although with the temperature getting so cold I'll probably wait until spring to do this on my car.
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Old 11-30-2015, 11:01 PM   #35
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why the heck did the 180 t-stat come stock on a Mazda 3 but not on the ford focus? that seems odd to me. seems easy enough to do although with the temperature getting so cold I'll probably wait until spring to do this on my car.
Yeah I got mine sitting in the garage until next spring too
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Old 12-01-2015, 04:18 PM   #36
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for those that have installed this, is it necessary to fully drain the radiator or can you just disconnect the hose and leave it facing up so it doesn't drain all over?
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Old 12-01-2015, 11:23 PM   #37
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I pulled the hose and left it elevated. Barely lost enough fluid to need to top off.
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Old 12-01-2015, 11:32 PM   #38
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thanks dude that's what I was hoping!
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Old 12-04-2015, 11:53 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo86GT View Post
I pulled the hose and left it elevated. Barely lost enough fluid to need to top off.
Good to know too I need to do in spring 16
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Old 12-07-2015, 03:38 PM   #40
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Just got done installing mine this weekend while doing an oilchange and the rear motor mount swap also.

Here's my words of wisdom:

1. Pull positive battery cable and tether in a fashion so that it won't accidentally reconnect.

2. Note path orientation of alternator belt that goes over the front upper tensioner. Use a 13mm socket (not wrench, belt will hang up on a wrench, trust me) to release belt pressure on the upper tensioner, move alternator belt out of the way. Remove tensioner from the block with two 10mm bolts. At this point I pulled the under-engine tray to drape a plastic shopping bag over the alternator to protect it from the coolant that would be draining all over it.

3. Use needlenose pliers and these hose clamps are a cinch. Probably because of the extra room from Step 2. Place drip pan under alternator area and pull hoses with a twisting motion to get them moving. You'll lose about 2 qts of fluid.

4. Tuck hoses behind harnesses and whatever is handy and enjoy your new clear shot at the thermostat. The only semi-difficult bolt with this method is the one just behnd the alternator, but you can pull the lower alternator bolts, and loosen the nut on top to swing it out of the way for easy access here too. I did not pull any cables off the alternator. To get the inside upper thermostat bolt, you will need a semi-long 1/4" extension and short 8mm socket run along the edge of the intake manifold. Not difficult, just have to be careful not to drop the tool. Break the bolt loose and remove the bolt by turning the socket/extension by hand without the rachet, it goes much faster as space is limited.

Never had to remove the headlight.

Took me about 45 minutes over my standard oil change time(was in the air, bellypan pulled already) including 15 minutes of fumbling with the belt because I didn't have another set of hands around to hold things in place.

Have fun guys, it's not hard, just remember this is basically worthless unless you have a tune that the fan calibration can be modified for.
^^ see notes in my reply to the OP's writeup. Your results may vary. I said you'll lose about 2 qts of fluid, so make sure you have a pan under the thermostat area before pulling, and a bit of extra fluid available to top off.
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