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Old 06-10-2019, 08:53 AM   #11
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Im talking about the plastic piece on the attached photo. The reservoir has a hose that attaches to this piece. It will fill up with fluid but there is still air in the top. Every other MC I see a bleeding procedure for, the reservoir is attached directly on top of the MC and not this in between "reservoir"
I'm not familiar with the detached reservoir.Do you have a picture of your engine compartment? Is your car a manual or an automatic?
Ok. I found some pictures. I would leave the top off the upper reservoir and gently pump the brake pedal and see if you can get all of the air out of the lower. I would think the lower should be air free. Do you have rear disc brakes or drum?
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:28 AM   #12
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Drums
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:30 AM   #13
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Drums
As I said before. If you have a leaking rear wheel cylinder it will suck air with a pneumatic bleeder. Pull the drums and check for leaks.
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:37 AM   #14
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The only thing I know to do next is to cap off the ports on the Master Cylinder and press the brake pedal. It should be firm. If it is, then I could assume the MC is good and I have a problem elsewhere. Could I then hook up one brake line at a time to and see if the pedal firmness changes?

At this point, we are ruling out a bad brake booster correct? Is there anything else I should do to rule it out as a suspect?
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:40 AM   #15
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The only thing I know to do next is to cap off the ports on the Master Cylinder and press the brake pedal. It should be firm. If it is, then I could assume the MC is good and I have a problem elsewhere. Could I then hook up one brake line at a time to and see if the pedal firmness changes?

At this point, we are ruling out a bad brake booster correct? Is there anything else I should do to rule it out as a suspect?
Do you see my posts? Check the rear wheel cylinders for leaks. Do not use a power bleeder. Old school bleed with a tube in a jar with brake fluid.im almost done responding.
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:40 AM   #16
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OK, I pulled off one side yesterday but they are a PITA to remove. Never seen a design like that before. I didnt see any leaks and everything looked normal. I dont see any leaks around the wheel of the other side but I will pull it and check tonight. I really appreciate your help. I have never had problems with brakes like this, so I am learning.
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:44 AM   #17
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OK, I pulled off one side yesterday but they are a PITA to remove. Never seen a design like that before. I didnt see any leaks and everything looked normal. I dont see any leaks around the wheel of the other side but I will pull it and check tonight. I really appreciate your help. I have never had problems with brakes like this, so I am learning.
No worries. I've never been a fan of power bleeding. If you manually bleed as I described that will at least tell you if you really have air or not. You can see the bubbles. It's possible that the new master cylinder is bad. There are a lot of crappy Chinese parts out there.
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:47 AM   #18
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Have you tried pumping the brake pedal to build up pressure and then cracking the bleeder open? If you have a clear hose on the bleeder then you should see the air bubbles come out. Be sure to close the bleeder before releasing the pedal.
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:51 AM   #19
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When I bled the brakes originally, I did bled them manually but then when I went to drive, the car did not want to stop, so I suspected air. I manually bled the front wheels again and drove with no change. After replacing the MC, I didn't want to take the time to bled manually again. Thats why I borrowed the power bleeder. First time I had used one.

I will check the rear brakes tonight and bleed again if I have time. Im just checking around the cylinders for leaks and I also made sure there was no gap between the shoe and the cylinder. Anything else I should be looking for?
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:52 AM   #20
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I did pump it up a few times while bleeding. It seemed like there was more pressure when I opened the bleeder.
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