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Old 05-23-2019, 09:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post

Sounds like the threads are just worn. this sometimes can make bleeding difficult since you will have air come in around the threads.







I would say yes or old / bad bleeders that are now leaking past the threads. something you don't want. Thus why I would recommend the Russell Speed Bleeders... I have them on both my Foci and my Jeep and soon to be my Explorer once I need to service the brakes or fluid.


.
So the valve threads are bad/worn , and crappy bleeders that's causing small air bubble when I use motive power bleeder. But the power bleeder was pushing fluid etc out so maybe air didn't get in? or did it. I have yet to test drive the car , going to do it today. Man the car only got 3 brake jobs so far, 1st time was in dealer, and I did the 2nd and 3rd time, the 2nd time it was leaking around the threads when I open it but didn't leak when I closed it. I guess it's really crappy valves or dealer messed them up the first time. After HPDE gonna get those Russell speed bleeders. Actually all 4 leaks around the threads when I open the valves! Oh the rear 2 when I bled it it comes out really slow, like only 1/3 of the tube got fluid coming out. the front 2 valves was full tube of fluid. motive bleeder was at 14 to 15 psi so...I guess air was around the threads that's why rears was bleeding so slowly? Rear 2 were really slow.

Nice, going to look into Allen/Hex head sockets to torque it to spec, thanks
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Old 05-23-2019, 09:36 AM   #12
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you have the car infront of you, you shoudl be able to tell what is going on better than someone 600 miles away from you.

Sounds like the set/bleed screws are loose from your decription.

Not familar with your bleeding tool. I prefer to allways pull fluid through the system instead of pushing it out. Not sure if it really matters, you want to just avoid getting air in the lines so how ever you do that.

The Russel speed bleeders have a ball and spring to prevent any air getting in the system so may not work if your tyring to push the fluid in to the caliper, you will have to pull vacuum or use the pedal to build pressure in the system. but because of the extra little check valve you greatly reduce the risk of air getting in the system between pumping the brakes or using other tools and when you tighten the bleeder.
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:34 PM   #13
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Ok I drove it for 20 min or so, brake fluid seemed ok, if there is air in it I need to depress the pedal much further and it will be soft right? I tap it a tiny bit and it brakes right away, at times it seemed kinda soft but others times it seemed ok. Will drive my roomate's car when he gets home and compare.

After the drive I check the valve in question and there is no leak, it was the fluid from the last bled, you were right! checked other 3 valves and no leak when closed, only when open. Need to replace those later.

Man with hawk hp plus it really brakes hard, I have yet to do the bedding. A few time I brake the way I usually do and it really stops, and really sensitive! Way better than stock, can't wait to try it with pilot sport 4S that I put on 3 months ago!

Checked brake fluid and it's right at max level, the same level as it were before. Just need to find a long deserted road and bed in the pads. Rear is all stock and front rotors are stock too.

Will still check fluid levels at the event, thanks for the help, had so many questions heh. Feels good to do it yourself instead of the shop. Saved a bunch of money too!
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Old 05-23-2019, 08:31 PM   #14
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They times I have experienced boiled brakes (getting air in the line) or after major brake line work the pedal is squishy. the travel will be whats refereed to as piston slap. whe you let off the brake the way the square cut gasket on the piston works helps pull the piston back a bit. And then the fact that it floats on the slide pins can cause the caliper to move around and open the piston gap more. if you watch touring racing or track racing you may notice that people will do a very light tap on the brakes if there was a long straight or they haven't used their brakes in a bit. That's to bring the caliper and piston in a tight tolerance and provide known good braking.
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Old 05-23-2019, 11:57 PM   #15
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Now that you mentioned it, I remembered the pedal feel when I boiled the brake fluid. It's really soft like sponge, squishy. This TYP 200 doesn't feel like that so the bled was good then! But do different brake fluid have different pedal feel? They Should feel all the same right? This one feels kinda different, maybe because I have 2 variables- the brake fluid and new front pads. It feels like it's really sensitive, you tap a little bit it brakes right away, then when you apply more pressure you kind of feel nothing or soft (but it's still working), then when you apply more then there is a good amount of pedal pressure. But I did pad bedding and it's all good, braked right away it felt pretty good, pretty strong pads.

When I let go of steering wheel and apply brake, car will pull to the right a little bit, I think tire pressure was 1 psi off between the front 2. It pulls to the right a tiny bit maybe it's nothing.

Fluids all good, next would be clean the car up!

Costco filled the tires with nitrogen, last HPDE I lowered the tire pressure to 32 then after session is done it's right at 36psi. I wonder how many psi nitrogen will go up. Will test and see! It's going to be a lot of fun.

Yeah car is pretty much all ready, thanks again for your help.
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:40 AM   #16
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no problem and hope its help. Its just been one guys experience and not on a Mk3 at that...

New Fluid "should" all feel the same as the compressibility of the fluid when Dry and has air should be the same. I use TYP-200 I have been thinking about going up to the fancy stuff since my car is more dedicated now. But as you get more fancy it does need to be exchanged more because it draws moisture at a higher rate.

I would recommend https://damondmotorsports.com/produc...12771216883754 next time you are looking at the brakes. This should further help with the feel and less caliper deflection which could have been causing the pad ware being a little un even. I wish they made these for the Mk1...

Also for the braking it can do that also depending on Toe and other factors.
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:31 PM   #17
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Is it a track car?! Fancy brake fluid for the track?!

You got those ? Interesting it says improved braking response and feel and more. This is just my 2nd HPDE, got a lot of driver mod before parts mod, but this one looks intersting.

After brake pads install, press the brake pedal a few times before the 1st drive so there is brake, but is that with car on or off.

So my FoST needs 91 octane min, and if I get a bad tank of 91 and go on track and flooring it and higher rpm etc. That's not good right, or does it pull timing and reduced hp there is nothing to worry about. I can get some 100 octane or torco and mix it up, but got other things and I got a lot of driver mod to do first.

I am afraid for the brake fluid bled.... I think I did it correctly, have done it once before, but it something were to go wrong. (test drove 3x and all seems fine) if something is wrong with brake fluid will it gradually losing braking power , won't just all of a sudden I lose braking power right.
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:04 PM   #18
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You are over thinking it. Go have fun.
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Old 05-28-2019, 08:13 PM   #19
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Hey man ran the car hard all weekend long, not a single problem, drove there, drove back, repeated the next day. Fluids are all good, brakes are all good. Wasn't too confident before since it's my second time doing those and it's for track racing, but helpful and patient people from online really gave me a boost!

This time I passed a lot of people in my group, last time I didn't pass anyone, this time it was like 5,6 cars that I passed, some were 50k to 100k cars. I think it's the tires pilot sport 4S, last time I had stock eagle F1 symmetric but they were 4.5 years old. I guess they were way too old for track, because I didn't improve much other than watched youtube videos, so it's mostly tires I think. Tires really made a big difference I guess. Gonna track it again before tires get too old!

I don't think T/C or Stability kicked in once, didn't see the light at all. I cornered it really hard, tire were squeaking a little then I was afraid to push it more. Next time gonna try to push it and see when does stability kicks in, then I will know the limit. I had 39 psi front and 37 psi rear (hot for both), it did pretty good.

Man it was a lot of fun, maintain the car well and it will drive well too.
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