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Old 04-03-2017, 12:08 AM   #11
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Maybe Whiteline products are available?

Australian source.

Rear bar is actually a simple shape to make, if the right materials are avail. any weld shop or decent custom car shop could build one.

Actually did that here for a VW Golf built for the track MANY years ago, the shop owner picked up some spring steel bar stock of a type that could be heated/bent to shape and we bent up front & rear bars to fit. WAY too long ago to remember the alloy, but he just called up steel supply sources locally to find what he wanted.

There are charts for % increase in stiffness by size, start with stock size measurement/specs. to work from. IDK offhand the MkIII size, would need to look that up. MkI/II has a 20mm stock where fitted, 21mm for SVT, 24/26? for Eibach.
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Old 04-03-2017, 03:09 AM   #12
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Mk3 Suspension, Handling and Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Maybe Whiteline products are available?

Australian source.

Rear bar is actually a simple shape to make, if the right materials are avail. any weld shop or decent custom car shop could build one.

Actually did that here for a VW Golf built for the track MANY years ago, the shop owner picked up some spring steel bar stock of a type that could be heated/bent to shape and we bent up front & rear bars to fit. WAY too long ago to remember the alloy, but he just called up steel supply sources locally to find what he wanted.

There are charts for % increase in stiffness by size, start with stock size measurement/specs. to work from. IDK offhand the MkIII size, would need to look that up. MkI/II has a 20mm stock where fitted, 21mm for SVT, 24/26? for Eibach.
Do you know if there's a difference between the NA and ST RSBs? Will one made for the ST for ours?

And what about bushings Roger? Which ones would you recommended tackling?
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:19 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FourD View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Maybe Whiteline products are available?

Australian source.

Rear bar is actually a simple shape to make, if the right materials are avail. any weld shop or decent custom car shop could build one.

Actually did that here for a VW Golf built for the track MANY years ago, the shop owner picked up some spring steel bar stock of a type that could be heated/bent to shape and we bent up front & rear bars to fit. WAY too long ago to remember the alloy, but he just called up steel supply sources locally to find what he wanted.

There are charts for % increase in stiffness by size, start with stock size measurement/specs. to work from. IDK offhand the MkIII size, would need to look that up. MkI/II has a 20mm stock where fitted, 21mm for SVT, 24/26? for Eibach.
Do you know if there's a difference between the NA and ST RSBs? Will one made for the ST for ours?

And what about bushings Roger? Which ones would you recommended tackling?
AFAIK the FoST RSB does not fit our car. HOWEVER, rear sway bars from the 2007-2009 mazdaspeed 3 do fit our cars. And the stock rear sway bar from those cars is a decent upgrade. I know early on members we're using them and we're happy. Hopefully someone else can confirm, but that might be easier to source.

Other than that, sailor is correct and a custom RSB wouldn't be hard for someone who can weld.
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:02 AM   #14
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If you'll be doing a sway bar, put off bushings until doing that to get them for fit.

It's more of a change when both rubber bushed end links and rubber bar mounting bushes are used.

I wouldn't recommend doing more of the suspension in Poly bushes for most users.
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Old 04-04-2017, 12:37 PM   #15
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(copied from a current thread on sway bars/chassis braces with stock suspension)


The larger the rear sway vs. the front, the more understeer is reduced.

ESC (stability control) is the savior for going too far that way, it's what allows the ST to be a bit 'loose' at the tail from the Factory.

Haven't heard of anyone who got bit by that with only the Steeda rear, just be a bit cautious in feeling it out when it's slick enough to slide it.
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Old 04-04-2017, 06:41 PM   #16
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For me, the steeda RSB, in conjunction with the springs and with the stock suspension have helped the car have steer very well( cant remember the term for no oversteer AND no understeer). Only in the snow have I been able to notice the car oversteer.
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Old 04-04-2017, 06:56 PM   #17
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Neutral or balanced work for describing that.

Sounds like a good fit with the springs you used, a quite stiff rear bar works best with stiffer springs as well for a starting point.

It's very nice with FWD when you have a balance that allows you to steer the car in a curve with the throttle.

Steer in with neutral throttle, let it take a 'set' with the suspension stable, then be able to make it go wider (drift out) with throttle and tuck in to a tighter turn when you back off the throttle. Mild understeer & mild oversteer from a balanced starting point, all without turning the wheel once set.

Fun!
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Old 04-15-2017, 03:18 AM   #18
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The Whiteline bar doesn't fit the Mk3!!! Looked into this over a year ago, and the endlink studs are larger on the Mk3 vs the Mk2 for which its designed for! The Steeda 1 inch RSB was perfect!
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Old 04-15-2017, 12:02 PM   #19
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Mk 3 Suspension under a Mk 1

Anybody else put Mk 3 ST suspension under a Mk 1? While I had the motor out of my old (2000) NASA Spec Focus, I decided to modify the suspension to raise the roll center. Then, I got "project creep". Mk 3 ST spindles/ hubs, control arms, axles, etc. I modified the X-member to move the control arm pick-up points up, lengthened the lower control arms, made adapter sleeves to use the Mk 1 struts (for now). The ST hubs/spindles are massive compared to the old SVT parts I removed and the track width is increased. I have included a couple of construction photos, but I will start a thread for documentation in the Road Race section.

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Old 07-14-2017, 02:20 AM   #20
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Not sure if this is the right section to post this question - but - we have a 2012 Ford Focus Titanium - we are stationed overseas and before I go into town to seek a mechanic wanted to get some feedback. We have been lucky to not have any Transmission issues but lately if the car has been sitting for a while a few days - last was 5 days sitting - when it starts moving forward there is somewhat of a noise. The noise seems to be happening when the car moves forward on rotation. It's not a tick or grind but it sounds like say a playing card is hitting a spoke. After driving it for the first 30mins or so - the noise goes away never to be heard again - till we of course let it sit for another few days. Let me also add that Where we are - there are active volcanoes - so lots of dust/volcanic Ash settles in the tiniest of spaces. Anyone ever experience this. Also are there any greaseable points that we need to service - it has 62k miles. We also have some rattling on the front which I think may be so.e arms. Thanks in advance.

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