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Old 10-29-2015, 09:40 PM   #31
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Not so much the number of threads, but tightness, if you haven't double checked it just make sure it's good and snug.

Since you clunk on angled bumps, it's a part that is flexing in a plane it wouldn't normally move in.

Everything in the pics looks like it fits, that's the crazy thing.

A spring is a spring is a spring, unless that top spring mount is soft or a little loose compared to stock.
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:08 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Juicedz View Post
Well, I'll be contacting eibach again on monday. If what the tech claims is true and "the top coil should be aligned with the bearing mount tab" than there is a design flaw with the eibach springs.


Sure, I'll align the end of the coil with the tab to get Hella flush lol not

Both stock and eibach coil.springs are placed firmly in the lower strut perch for all of these pictures.
Sorry, to bring this up again but I was going back through this thread looking for ideas when I stumbled on one of felix' original questions..."did I use the original spring insulators". Since I purchased all.new top components and struts I disregarded it. However, zooming in on the last pick you can see that I probably should have swapped over the bottom rubber insulator from the original oem spring. As it sits now I am riding on the bare st strut at the bottom perch without a rubber spring insulator. I'm guessing this is my problem? I surely hope so. This will be round 3.
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:32 PM   #33
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Not to be a killjoy, but I have no spring insulator on the bottom perches, no noise...

You might hold tight pending your chat with tech.
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Old 11-11-2015, 11:28 AM   #34
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I spoke with Dave (tech) and he seams to think that my lower mount piece that holds the top coil in place is mismatched but both top mount/bearing components are identicle. I'll get a picture up of the opposite one that ford changed in oct. 13' but he's saying their picture was taken in 12'
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Old 11-11-2015, 11:31 AM   #35
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Old 11-11-2015, 12:53 PM   #36
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Any lowered suspension mods your going to get squeeks.
NOOOOPE.

Been driving on my Sportlines for a year and a half now with NO audible difference from stock. It's as smooth and quiet as it was from the factory, just more low.






Did you loosen the control arm bolts front/rear to drop the shock assemblies?

I'm betting there's binding as you are to set the car at ride height before final torquing of those control arm swing bolts.

[edit]
Nevermind, those assemblies definitely show where the issue lies.

I reassembled with all factory isolators, and the springs aligned without any issue, seated perfectly.

Question about the photo above. Are those left/right assemblies or duplicates of one side? Don't forget that the upper section with be 180* out from how it is being compared here as the brake line mounts will need to be rotated for the opposite side per opposite pinch-bolt clearance hole.
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Old 11-11-2015, 03:11 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo86GT View Post
NOOOOPE.

Been driving on my Sportlines for a year and a half now with NO audible difference from stock. It's as smooth and quiet as it was from the factory, just more low.






Did you loosen the control arm bolts front/rear to drop the shock assemblies?

I'm betting there's binding as you are to set the car at ride height before final torquing of those control arm swing bolts.

[edit]
Nevermind, those assemblies definitely show where the issue lies.

I reassembled with all factory isolators, and the springs aligned without any issue, seated perfectly.

Question about the photo above. Are those left/right assemblies or duplicates of one side? Don't forget that the upper section with be 180* out from how it is being compared here as the brake line mounts will need to be rotated for the opposite side per opposite pinch-bolt clearance hole.
The ford tech thay I had look at the car did mention getting it up on ramps and cracking the control arm bolts and retorqing. No, I don't recall loosening those bolts to remove the struts in the front. Just the perch bolt (15mm), used the same bolt to separate the backside, and then replaced with a new bolt from Ford. The write up on the forum actually had no mention of loosening the control arm bolt in the front that I recall.

You think the lack of rubber insulators in the front is contributing to the problem then along with the lower control arm bolt? I reinstalled the rear spring insulators.
Also, the above pictures were of the same 2 struts (st/se)

I guess I'm confused how I should have set the car at ride height before torqing. I torqued everything and then lowered the car down. Would you use a car jack under the a-arm for each corner to compress each strut/shock? If lowering with the wheel on is there even access to those bolts to set tq?
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Old 11-11-2015, 05:05 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juicedz View Post
The ford tech thay I had look at the car did mention getting it up on ramps and cracking the control arm bolts and retorqing. No, I don't recall loosening those bolts to remove the struts in the front. Just the perch bolt (15mm), used the same bolt to separate the backside, and then replaced with a new bolt from Ford. The write up on the forum actually had no mention of loosening the control arm bolt in the front that I recall.

You think the lack of rubber insulators in the front is contributing to the problem then along with the lower control arm bolt? I reinstalled the rear spring insulators.
Also, the above pictures were of the same 2 struts (st/se)

I guess I'm confused how I should have set the car at ride height before torqing. I torqued everything and then lowered the car down. Would you use a car jack under the a-arm for each corner to compress each strut/shock? If lowering with the wheel on is there even access to those bolts to set tq?
Exactly. Put the frame on jackstands, crack the control arm bolts loose, then use the jack under the balljoint area of the control arm to apply pressure until you can tell the jackstand isn't supporting the car as much, it doesn't have to be ALL the weight, just some. Then torque to spec. If you did not touch these during installation, don't waste your time, though.
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Old 11-11-2015, 07:01 PM   #39
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This was the install guide I used. It mentioned removing the perch bolts from the knuckle but didn't go into any detail about loosening the lower control arm bolts or pre-loading the suspension prior to setting torque.http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/m...te-up-how.html

So at this point what would be your recommendation since you're saying not to bother with the lower control arm bolts if they were untouched during instalation. I'm gonna give it some more break in time but was thinking about switching the springs over to the se struts with the lower rubber insulators. Oddly, the front is about 1.5 fingers on the tire to fender clearance and the rear is about 2 fingers. Most people have the opposite complaint that the front sits slightly higher.
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Old 11-11-2015, 10:30 PM   #40
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I wouldn't deal w/ the A-arm mount bolts as you didn't touch them. Has the squeaks subsided some? it'd be great to get the car up on a alignment rack or a flat rack & push & pull up & down to see or hear where 'bouts your squeak is coming from. I've done that a few times= pulling down on the front or rear to figure out where the squeak is coming from.
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