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Old 06-18-2009, 08:35 AM   #1
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rear lower control arm bolts seized

i guess thats what ford calls it. the part the spring seats into. i had this problem back when i put on the vogtland springs and ford racing damper kit. i had to heat the bolt up, then cut the bolt out because it seized to the bushing. well, i tried to make a polyurethane bushing to replace the old (since it burned) and it didnt dry long enough. so it caused the wheel to pull.

now i have a replacement arm, but again i had to cut the bolt i replaced. no big deal as i planned to replace it (though its a 10.9 and ive gone through several blades to cut one side of it) but the other bolt that has the alignment tabs (which is factory bolt) is seized too. what was ford thinking!!!!!!!!!! is this a common problem? it seems as if all the rear suspension bolts are seized to the bushings. is there anything anyone has used that works like a champ to get them to release? 4lb sledge is of no avail. heat doesnt seem to do anything. im not sure that any penetrating lube would work cause how tight it is. but im open to ideas.

oh, the bolt with the alignment tabs, do i have to get that one from ford? i have a feeling its getting cut or ruined in some way. wait, ford used tty bolts back there didnt they?


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Old 06-18-2009, 08:53 AM   #2
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you have to use a reciprocating saw to cut those bolts, of thats what i did, bought new control arms and bolts. around 214$
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Old 06-18-2009, 09:17 AM   #3
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ive been using one. the bolts ford used, i think, cut off easily. but i put on a 10.9 bolt and as soon as the blade touches it, it rips the teeth off. i went through 4 18tpi, 1 14tpi, 1 all purpose (last ditch effort), and a carbide one that still has held up fairly well and help knock down some metal. i used the end of one of the 18tpi ones and used all my force and finally one end of the bolt was cut.

i was hoping to unbolt the crap, pop in the new arm, and be able to get my jack stands back so i could rotate the tires on the bmw. but nope. this car has never been easy to do anything on. well except for the front struts/springs. 15 minutes to remove and install new ones.
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Old 06-18-2009, 09:58 AM   #4
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Just FYI- I had to cut the outer lca bolt off on mine too, and I used my Dremel with one of the fiberglass reinforced cut off wheels that came with it. The bigger cut off wheel, not the smaller ones. Speed was set at 7/10. I was able to cut the bolt no problem, taking my time, and it didn't even use up much of the cut off disc.

But I'm guessing you guys cut the bolt between the bushing and the outer mount, so the size of the cut off wheel might be too small to do that. I cut off the bolt end that is in the tack welded nut. Cut the nut, and the bolt. I still have to drill some of the bolt though.
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Old 06-18-2009, 10:04 AM   #5
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But I'm guessing you guys cut the bolt between the bushing and the outer mount, so the size of the cut off wheel might be too small to do that. I cut off the bolt end that is in the tack welded nut. Cut the nut, and the bolt. I still have to drill some of the bolt though.
yup that's what i did
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Old 06-18-2009, 10:52 AM   #6
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This is a common issue, almost universally common in the north. You should have the arm at the correct ride height when you loosen and tighten the bolt, because the bushing is designed to twist as the arm moves up and down. Still, if it is seized, you will need new arms and bolts. The bushings are not normally replaceable. Use anti-seize compound on the bolt when you reinstall it.

If you run a rear sway bar, you might need new arms anyway, they tend to crack around the sway bar mounting holes. The newer arms are reinforced in this area.
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Old 06-18-2009, 01:50 PM   #7
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I just had this problem as well, but it was the whole trailing arm I had to pull, so there were three bolts (one for each arm that mounts to trailing arm) that were siezed and I had to cut them all out. I did find a prothane kit that was a direct replacement for the stock bushings but the real shocker was the price for the replacement bolts- more than the bushings. I guess that's what you get for going to a dealership...
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Old 06-18-2009, 10:05 PM   #8
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Next time you replace those bolts: PAINT THEM IN ANTI-SIEZE!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:29 PM   #9
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Next time you replace those bolts: PAINT THEM IN ANTI-SIEZE!!!!!!!!!!

did that with the one i replaced. still seized. the tolerance between bolt and bushing are so tight, it pushes all of it off. i typically use anti-seize where corrosion is a problem. its just a poor design
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:44 PM   #10
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The outer bolt is to be expected, sucks that your inner alignment bolt is siezed too.
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