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Old 06-19-2009, 01:45 PM   #11
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did that with the one i replaced. still seized. the tolerance between bolt and bushing are so tight, it pushes all of it off. i typically use anti-seize where corrosion is a problem. its just a poor design
Did you raise the control arm to the proper ride height before you loosened or tightened the bolt. You need to put a jack under it and lift as per the Ford instructions. That is very important.
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Old 06-19-2009, 05:17 PM   #12
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Wow, you painted it in anti-sieze and it STILL rusted?!?!?!? Thats amazing! Ford's design for this part is worse than I thought!
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Old 06-19-2009, 08:20 PM   #13
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.... this is off topic, but what if i got a place like NTB to replace my suspension.... will they be responsable if this happens?


sorry for the thread jack but its kinda deal with the bolts that i don't want to deal with!
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:48 PM   #14
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they would probably do something, but then charge you for it. its not like they were the reason it was seized.

and yes i did raise the arm. dont know if it was exactly ride height, but i raised it up.
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:06 AM   #15
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Help! I have read through this thread and am still slightly bemused! Not difficult... BUT... I need to replace the 'tie bar and knuckle' (control blade arm?) and have the same problem that the bolts are seized. no matter how much WD40, heat etc... Soooo I thought taking the entire off-side read suspension off would do it... I have removed coil spring, anti-roll bar etc. etc. and taken the nut off of the rear lower arm to crossmember... the bolt now seems to be seized to the bushes? Is this really common... lumping it with a hammer seems to have no effect, the bolt turns slightly but it restricted by an 'anti-loosening washer'... is this what you guys are talking about?
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:08 AM   #16
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Oh... the car is my daughter's - I thought I'd moved on from this - it seemed such a straightforward job!!!! Quite rewarding to get my hands dirty again... but nonetheless horribly frustrating and now quite embarrassing!
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:58 AM   #17
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the bolt now seems to be seized to the bushes? Is this really common... lumping it with a hammer seems to have no effect, the bolt turns slightly but it restricted by an 'anti-loosening washer'... is this what you guys are talking about?

That's exactly what is happening. The bolt rusts to and becomes one with the metal bushing (the tubular portion of the bushing) making it virtually impossible to remove in a conventional manner. In some limited cases it's possible to cut the head off the bolt and the nut and then with a pin punch/drift drive the remaining portion of the bolt out of the bushing. The success of this option is totally dependent on how badly the bolt is rusted/seized to the bushing but it may save you from having to buy a new arm. The downside is that if you do get it out its often hard to find an aftermarket replacement bushing as they're usually sold pre-installed in a new arm.
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:22 AM   #18
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Hmmmm... so it is probably best to leave the lower arm where it is... although the car is 11 years old, it only has about 45k+ miles (genuine it seems) and has been sitting around for quite some time. The bushes appear to be in good order...
sooooo I guess that it is time for an angle grinder and cut the bolts for control arm (blade thingy?) off the end of the lower arm... I went for the lower arm as there only seemed to be a single bolt remaining... and as the bolts for tie and knuckle arm around the 'hub' are also seized (hence the wasted efforts on the lower arm). I was reluctant to grind bolts while the arm was still attached. Gratefully though, it seems that it is not just me. I can get all but the two bolts under the hub assembly out... more heat and then the grinder then? Ho bloody hum... if this is such a regular occurrence, would it not have been better for Ford to select materials that did not bind in such a way - stupid question I know, but I would have thought that the cost of suitable materials would not have been restrictive... Makes one wonder why the Focus is STILL the best selling family car in Europe! Apart from its design, reliability, drivability, etc... etc...!
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:24 AM   #19
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Oh, and thanks Geezer, much appreciated...! :-)
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:17 PM   #20
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I recently had the problem of with the blot connecting the rear lower control arm, and trailing arm seizing as well. My solution was using an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel, and fitting it in the 1/4 inch gaps between the trailing arm and the lower control arm. When bought my new lower control arm I coated the inside of the metal bushings with anti-seize to prevent the shoulder of the blot rusting on to the metal bushing. Also, as stated a couple of times in this thread, make sure the lower control arm and trailing arm are at the right hight. If not, this will hinder the removal and installation of the blot.
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