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ZETEC Performance (2000-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L Zetec engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 09-06-2013, 03:28 PM   #11
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Dont I have to do some other mods to get the SVT header on it? What mm throttlebody are we talkin?

Assuming that I did all this, whats the tuner gonna cost me?
For the SVT header you will need to swap the oil dipstick for the SVT one (otherwise it's in the way), switch to the SVT flex pipe and catalytic converter or off road pipe, and if you don't plan to upgrade the exhaust right away you will need to modify the flange on the mid-pipe. The power steering line should also be moved or replaced using the relocation kit from CFM, as on the stock zetec it is too close to the header. I wouldn't go higher than 65mm on the TB. And Tom can advise on the big tuna'.
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:33 PM   #12
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First thing is deciding if you want to go the turbo or naturally aspirated route.

Call Tom (1turbofocus, posts 5 and 6) at the number in his signature and he can tell you the pros/cons of both.
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Just_Drive_ View Post
Dont I have to do some other mods to get the SVT header on it? What mm throttlebody are we talkin?

Assuming that I did all this, whats the tuner gonna cost me?
Yes you have to mod or move the PS line and add a SVT dipstick but its all worth doing , there is no other header that will add half what the SVT header will add

I charge 399.00 and 20.00 for shipping for the xcal3 , full custom tune and free tune updates as you add more NA mods , you get my datalogging services where I can take over your laptop and set up the datalog list for you and do the first datalog like I was sitting in the car with you , you also get my help with any issues but I do that anyway lol

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Old 09-09-2013, 08:40 AM   #14
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Alright, I suppose the next question is where to get the SVT Header at. But I did just come across a problem...

My oil temperature is fluxuating depending on what I'm doing. When I'm driving its just fine, but when im just sitting idling it likes to go clear to the redzone. Any ideas?
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Just_Drive_ View Post
Alright, I suppose the next question is where to get the SVT Header at. But I did just come across a problem...

My oil temperature is fluxuating depending on what I'm doing. When I'm driving its just fine, but when im just sitting idling it likes to go clear to the redzone. Any ideas?
I think someone's got one in the buy/sell/trade forums (here). Either that or check for someone parting out an SVT in the Vehicles for Parts section.

As for the temp guage...the Zetec (except SVT) does not have an oil temperature sender, it only measures cylinder head temperature. The CHT sensor is a common part to fail. Check your coolant and make sure your fans are running. If it is only doing it at idle it is likely the cooling fan resistor.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:17 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecicalese View Post
I think someone's got one in the buy/sell/trade forums (here). Either that or check for someone parting out an SVT in the Vehicles for Parts section.

As for the temp guage...the Zetec (except SVT) does not have an oil temperature sender, it only measures cylinder head temperature. The CHT sensor is a common part to fail. Check your coolant and make sure your fans are running. If it is only doing it at idle it is likely the cooling fan resistor.
So is anything actually overheating or is it just a crazed resisitor or sensor?
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:25 AM   #17
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Well, my money is on the resistor, check the forums for the repair, I believe it's an inexpensive piece to replace. I would start there. If you pop the hood when it's idling and can feel that the fans are running (don't burn yourself or lose a finger!) then it may just be the temp sensor.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Just_Drive_ View Post
So is anything actually overheating or is it just a crazed resisitor or sensor?
If the sender is bad, then it's giving you a false reading. If the resistor is bad, then it's overheating. As suggested, check to see if the low-speed radiator fan is running. It should kick on as soon as the temp gauge climbs from the center of the normal range. If it climbs past normal and you don't hear the fan kick on, it is most likely the low-speed fan resistor.

See here ->Fan sensors and wiring
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:17 AM   #19
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Thanks guys, I appreciate all the feedback really. Good to know people have a good idea what they're talking about!

So I'm gonna have to paint this little beater to make it look decent. If I just want to do a one-sided black with clearcoats, what am I lookin at?
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