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ZETEC Performance (2000-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L Zetec engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 08-20-2013, 10:48 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
^^ yes but springs and retainers can always be swaped out at a later date also with out pulling the head.
True, but you'll have the head off & in your hands on the bench. I'd do it all at the same time. Done & move on to other mods!!!!!!!
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:14 AM   #12
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FYI the difference of ten degrees or so more exhaust timing in older school motors was to make up for not having headers, true headers let that even up. Factory high flow exhaust manifolds still won't touch true header flow and no sonic wave tuning there either.

Exhaust on engines nowadays is good enough so that you can put more lift on intake than exhaust to bring them more in line with each other. More lift on intake for same reason intake valve is bigger than exhaust. Intake drawn in by pressure drop while exhaust aided by literally exploding out ike dynamite in first milliseconds of valve opening.

Maybe that'll help with asymmetrical or symmetrical cam timing ideas.
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:21 AM   #13
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so with headers (I have the SVT header, and likely will have ORP or at the least a high flow cat) its now saying that the intake is more restrictive than the exhaust so it needs to add more lift and more duration?

The cams show to have more lift and more duration on the intake cam then the exhaust cam. I also have a SIR (ice man) and a 65mm TB. So I am guessing my intake is about as restrictive as the exhaust. but I dont have any way to know that as a consumer.

The Cam manufactures should have ran the simulation or flow numbers to know the flow. it looks like Crane and Crower feel like there is flow differences where Comp feels like the intake does flow the same as exhaust thus not having a difference in lift or duration.
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:23 PM   #14
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this ia kinda close in topic but what would be better a zetec head with cams or a svt head on a zetec block with cams ?
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Old 09-02-2013, 01:26 PM   #15
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A ford racing head w/ cams would be best. The svt head you would need to do a VCT delete, there are also fewer options I believe for SVT cams. It sounds like best is to get a zetec head, with some general porting, match the intake runners to the head, and go as big as you can on the cams.
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:05 PM   #16
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I like the STG2 and STG3 Comp cams and have made some good power with them

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Old 09-02-2013, 02:12 PM   #17
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Tom, would you say you can use the stock valve train with the Comp stg2 and stg3 cams as they advertise it should you upgrade? Also how is the drive ability of the stg3 vs stg2?
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Old 09-02-2013, 06:01 PM   #18
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Drivability is in the tune and not the cams.
Modern fuel injection has changed many of the old norm about big cams. Yes you'll still get plenty of overlap and backflow. But a good tune can time the injection properly and the car will idle well.
But that's not to say it'll drive like stock. It won't and you shouldn't expect it to.

How many miles are on your springs now?
Do you trust them?
No.
Then upgrade.


Far as any 'tuning' of exhaust or intake; there is no one currently making parts that has tuned any part (intake or exhaust). They are simply parts that are made to fit and nothing more.
Any gains seen or claimed are simply due to increases total flow potential. You're still going to be under 100%VE; which proves there is no tuning done.

And don't bother reading books about intake or exhaust tuning. They are wrong and/or don't apply to your Focus (4cylinder). The harmonics are completely different which means it takes different tuning too.

Another thing to keep in mind is that tuning exhaust only applies to a very narrow gas temperature range ... the speed of sound changes with heat, which means the tuned length also has to change.
Simply put, don't waste time/money/hair on trying to tune your Focus's intake/exhaust.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:12 PM   #19
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about 150k miles on car. to my knowledge the previous owner did not change anything out in regards to the head or the valve train. There is nothing that is leading me to question my valves. Other than taking it to higher RPM's.

I will likely go with the Comp Stage 3 cams. They do not have near the lift as Crower or Crane. so under normal driving I feel fine. the question is when I take it close to red line or higher in RPMS since the cams are designed to go to 7,400. Am I going to get valve float at that high of an RPM? Comp advertises that you can use the stock valve train. So I am not that concerned.

Also with my car and being non interference if I get valve float it should not cause any damage, just drop in power right.

I figured trying to tune anything would be pointless. I guess that's where the dual runner on the SVT plays a roll in right? changing the length of the runner "tuning" the intake for different RPM / flow ranges.

I plan on having Tom do the tuning once I get it running again. also taken to a dyno to dial in the cams though the gears I need to get.

I am just wanting to make sure I do it right. while in a perfect world I will have the disposable income right away to get the springs and the cams. but if the cams advertise to use stock valve train why spend the $200+ on the springs when I can spend it on other bits.
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:19 PM   #20
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Spend the money and get the springs

Tom
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