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ZETEC Performance (2000-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L Zetec engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 06-03-2013, 05:32 PM   #11
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Your spend wayy too much money trying to get to 200hp n/a... and going forced induction doesnt hurt mpg. I get 30+ mpg in my turbo focus.
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:42 PM   #12
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Change out the suspension, adjust the intake and the cams (adjustable cam gears require at minimum a dyno to adjust them and best paired with a tune also). Do the SVT conversion for the exhaust (will want tune paired with it also). put a SRI or cold air on the intake. have some money left over pull the trans and put in a LSD in it. these mods will give you pep in the straight and make it fun to drive on the street
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:43 PM   #13
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Your spend wayy too much money trying to get to 200hp n/a... and going forced induction doesnt hurt mpg. I get 30+ mpg in my turbo focus.
You also have a D-tech. He's dealing w/ a Zetec.
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Old 06-03-2013, 06:26 PM   #14
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ITBs, 11:1 CR pistons w/lightweight rods, head porting w/1mm larger valves, stage 3 cams, coated race header, coated 2.5 inch exhaust with ORP after the header, crank UDP, tune for 100 octane fuel, and dry sump oiling should get you close if not there. I don't like the idea of shooting for the moon with a shaved head and stock internals, because you have to tune for 8500+ rpms to hit your goal, and the stock rods won't take it for long.
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:28 PM   #15
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ITBs, 11:1 CR pistons w/lightweight rods, head porting w/1mm larger valves, stage 3 cams, coated race header, coated 2.5 inch exhaust with ORP after the header, crank UDP, tune for 100 octane fuel, and dry sump oiling should get you close if not there. I don't like the idea of shooting for the moon with a shaved head and stock internals, because you have to tune for 8500+ rpms to hit your goal, and the stock rods won't take it for long.

Says who?
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:05 PM   #16
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Says who?
Well, obviously I said that.

It's based on knowing the difference between cast and forged metals, and knowing the difference between building for endurance and building for fun. Also, there is plenty of information in the Focus forums about busted stock rods and/or pistons on boosted engines, and very little about forged rod and lightweight pistons being busted in more heavily boosted engines.

Sure, NA and boost are not the same, but using the same gear ratios means the NA engine walks up toward 8K allot slower than the same car with boost... that's what HP is all about. More time means more stress, and that much stress on a relatively skinny rod and a relatively tiny wrist pin is asking for trouble. Between stock passenger parts and quality aftermarket racing parts, I'll bet on the parts that are made to stand higher stresses every time.
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:25 PM   #17
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So you have no personal experience.
That's all I wanted to know.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:57 AM   #18
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I've had plenty of personal experience, but all of the high revving engines I've owned, built, and/or driven where oversquare engines (one square), not undersquare like the Zetec. I've seen other long strokes blow up and send parts through the VC and oil pan, but I haven't seen a Zetec do it yet. Just because I haven't personally witnessed a Zetec blowing up or had it happen to me, doesn't mean it won't happen if you stress a Zetec enough... I believe what I've read about it, because it makes perfect sense, based on my experience with engines in general, and my understanding of metals and stresses.

You may have stock internals in your build (a very good power build, with a sweet torque curve, BTW), but pulling that last bit of power out of it to hit 175-180 at the wheels, takes a relatively long time. If you did that frequently, you would learn a sad lesson. Why do you think Ford used stronger forged rods with bigger wrist pins in the SVT?
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:22 AM   #19
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If you're talking whp, I'm there already and have been for awhile.
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Old 06-04-2013, 12:46 PM   #20
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I know, but that doesn't answer my question.
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