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Magus2727 03-01-2012 03:23 PM

Assembly Lube, worth the extra $?
The build will be starting soon on my engine. Just got the pistons today and will be taking them and the other hardware to the machine shop tomorrow morning.

Is it worth the extra $$ to get the full synthetic high performance brand name assembly lube?

i.e Royal Purple's "Max-Tuff"; Red Line P/N 80319, or even Lucas Oil's semi-synthetic P/N 10152.

If I go with one manufacture for say assembly oil, should I stick to that company for all fluids?

Also is it best to get regular oil or spring for the engine break in specific oil for the first 500 miles?

iminhell 03-01-2012 04:47 PM

IMO/from what little I know,
A Molybdenum based assy. lube is all that should be used. From what I understand, it has a higher tolerance to avoid galling.
Basically it's thick grease that fills the gaps in bearings to prevent dry-start with a brand new build. Once oil is flowing the assy. lubes job is done. So going by that you want thick, something that won't run away from assy. point to the first turn of the key.

I'm sure there's debate over what's best. But for a single use user I see no reason to spend oodles of money on name brand stuff. Just look for the ingredients at a price you can live with.

The more important factor is using conventional motor oil for break in IMO.

Magus2727 03-01-2012 05:08 PM

So would you not use Royal Purple Break in oil? Would seam like with Royal Purples high film strength so called "Synerlec" using them for assembly and break in would be the most ideal. Along with their oil filter which can filter out 25mc particles...

Get good old Motorcraft 5-20 synthetic blend? wort the $$ to get a nice filter for the first 500 miles?

1turbofocus 03-01-2012 05:28 PM

I wouldnt use RP anything , it just isnt better

Like stated use any assy lube if your going to start the engine with in the next month use about any assy lube even advance brand and make sure you have oil psi before you start the engine

What ever filter your going to be running if fine to use on the new engine now

If your going to let a new rebuilt engine sit for some time then that changes things


Magus2727 03-01-2012 05:44 PM

What is the view on Amsoil Assembly Lube ( It looks to be a thicker lube, have heard good things about Amsoil... besides how hard it is to find a good rep.

And how do you have oil PSI before starting? is their some way to retrofit an electric oil pump to eliminate the dry start? or just hand turn the engine over a few times and get oil in all the valleys?

mikebontoft 03-01-2012 06:26 PM

molybdenium disulfate (lol spelling) is the stuff I look for... no reason for the brand name anyway.

edit: yah there we go: Molybdenum disulfide

1turbofocus 03-01-2012 08:18 PM

Wouldnt use amsoil either , just use something from the local parts place and dont pay a lot for it

To make sure you have oil psi before starting so the oil galleys are primed and ready to have oil psi the sec it starts , remove spk plugs , put charger on batt , unplug coil and remove fuel pump fuse , now spin engine over till you have oil psi , replace fuses , plugs and plug coil in and start engine , you will or should have instant oil psi , if you start with out priming the engine you could see 15-30 sec or running before you see oil psi , not a good thing


Magus2727 03-01-2012 08:48 PM

Right now I have a tube of

Should I use this stuff?

Base type: Lithium
Color: Black
N.I.G.I No: Grade 0-1/2
Drop Point: 360F
Water Resistance: Excellent

Contains: Mineral Oil (heavy) 64741-96-4
Lithium Soap 7620-77-1
Calcium Dinonylnaphthalene Sulfonate 57885-77-3
Zinc dithiophosphate 68649-42-3

It says that there is Moly-Graphite, nothing about Molybdenum disulfide...

drostedrummer89 03-03-2012 02:20 PM

Personally I'd use a ford assembly lube, or any standard name brand. I also would not spend oodles of money on ultra high performance race power NOS impregnated assembly lube (lol) but a reputable brand will be fine. Get a cheapo jug of conventional 5w30, you're only running it for a few minutes then draining it all out anyway. I would say any filter other than fram is good for the first few startups, the price difference between fram and motorcraft is negligable, but the difference in quality is almost exponential.

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1turbofocus 03-03-2012 03:24 PM

If you have it use it you will be fine


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