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The N/A Zetec Performance Thread

68K views 144 replies 57 participants last post by  daspazzZX3 
#1 · (Edited)
In response to all the questions about N/A Zetec performance lately

Post em if you got em boys.... [headbang]
Heres my recepie


Breathe Easier
- Full Intake/Exhaust w/2.5" (Inside Diameter) Piping
- 65mm Throttle Body
- 70mm MAF tube
- SVT Fuel Pump
- 24 lbs Fuel Injectors
- Tune

Engine Efficency
- Headwork (Port, Polish, Deck, 3 Angle Valve Job, Oversized Valves)
- Built engine (High Compression, Lightweight Pistons/Rods, ARP hardware)
- Reinforced Main caps
- Knife-Edged Crankshaft
- AC Delete
- PS Delete
- (Tune) Alternator cutoff at WOT

Rev Higher
- Custom Intake Manifold w/short runners
- Aggressive Camshafts (High lift, Good Overlap)
- Adjustable Cam Gears
- Valves/Springs (Lightweight and designed for high rpm)
- Billet Oil Pump Gears
- (tune) Rev limiter set to 8k

Stay in the sweet spot
- 4.06 gears

Reduce Rotational Mass
- Underdrive Pulleys
- Lightweight Rims/Tires
- Lightweight Flywheel

And as always, due to the High Revving, low tq, not daily driver friendly nature of a pure N/A build, Weight reduction is a must to help combat the lack of low end response.
LINK[/URL]

Daily Driver Friendly
Lightweight battery, Carbon Fiber Hood, Carbon Fiber Hatch, Wheels (most important), Flywheel (2nd Most important), Front Race Seats, Rear Seat Delete, Receiver only with only the front door speakers

Track Oriented
Remove the AC stuff, Remove the Powersteering stuff, Remove the Dash accept for the gauges, Swap all of the glass for Lexan, Remove the wheel well guards, Remove the rear bumper support, Remove both the air bags, scrape off all the sound barrier stuff, Remove all interior panels

thx to: mlbbaseball, besthaticouldo
 
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#89 ·
After doing a couple 7k rpm 3rd gear pulls, my spark plugs were showing that WOT was leaning out even with the fuel trims at 25%. So it was time for an upgrade. Today I finally got around to installing my 24lb injectors, Pro-M 70mm MAF housing and GMS MAF sensor, 6" - 3" velocity stack and 6" K&N cone filter. Man does that ever make a huge difference. I like the fact that my fuel trims are finally in the negative.

With the stock 19Lb injectors both fuel trims were always around 25%. The ECU would occasionally throw a lean code as well. Now with the 24lb injectors and the GMS MAF the fuel trims are @ -6% (after 500km). And my spark plugs are a nice tan colour with a good ring on the ground strap and threads. That gives me great piece of mind knowing that at WOT I'm not running out of injector anymore. Also keeps the duty cycle of the injectors in the 70-80% range where they should be. That should keep them cooler and add a little life to the coils.
 
#91 ·
I haven't finished the head yet... I will definitely try and remember to post up some flow numbers when the head is finished. Haven't quite reached the point that I am looking to hit. Still testing different exhaust header flange openings with the new port shape. I didn't care so much for the restrictive round header opening matched to the oval exhaust port. Don't need a reversion step that mismatched.

Right now I'm playing around with the stock engine and ECU and pushing it as far as I can.

I am also working on the spare bottom end as well. [;)]

I should probably start a build thread somewhere instead of posting in here.
 
#92 ·
10yrs+ and still they dream of a 200hp zetec. If it wasnt a small truck motor at heart people wouldnt have to ask bc the info would be plentiful on how. Tell folks u have 200bhp and have something fun to drive. That or get a hair dryer. Akin to comparing us with hondas in the 1/4. More parts more development more numbers but... less weight.
 
#93 ·
To be completely honest! The head will probably never see a flow bench and the wheels will never touch a dynos rollers. I'm good with that, as long as the mods that I do make it funner to drive in the end. That and they don't cost me $10K like my ongoing N/A Honda build! [;)]
 
#95 ·
It is much more than the $$$ in some cases. I consider it to be more of a challenge to make power N/A! I've done a few 350-450whp 1.8L and 500whp 2.4L boosted Honda builds. Sure it's fun beating the all mighty Mustang and Camaro down the track. But to be honest, boost builds are pretty easy! And to do them properly they can be just as expensive as an N/A build hp/$.
 
#98 ·
You can do 250 to 300 with a turbo very easily. 200 all motor means twisting a motor that was never meant to twist like that. Put the SVT head on put the Ford manifold on or combination of SVT Cosworth whatever manifold you want to put on it put big cams in it doesn't matter. To get that power you have to turn rpm's at your motor was never meant to turn or will do safely on a repeated basis. It'll likely be flat on torque and not in keeping with what the focus is. Then you end up with a portly Honda with no VTEC on top to pull you back up. that's what you have. Off the soapbox.
 
#99 ·
What do you mean by twist? I'm assuming you mean engine speed or RPM. Were the ZETEC pistons or rods specifically made to take boost? If I wanted Boost I'd buy an STi.

So in your eyes what makes them not like 7000rpm or twisting?

What would happen if you were to lighten the pistons, increase displacement and compression, strengthen your rod bolts, and change the bearing clearances accordingly?

Don't ask why would I bother? I know you can build a cheap boosted car that will run 300whp all day. I'm not interested. This is The N/A Zetec Performance Thread... not the lets have all the snail lovers bash N/A builds thread!


Anywho,
Here are some pictures to go along with my MAF instal thread above. No this is not a Focus, it is a ZETEC though.

6" - 3" velocity stack,


6" K&N filter over the stack,


Pro-M housing and GMS MAF,
 
#100 ·
I prefer na actually. But in all these years of the zetec what it can do and not do is pretty well known and past development. Its the head primarily. Sadly to make that high hp level you need to a crazy high rpm race gas grenade. And prolly gotta eat a good amt of the low and midrange tq this motor does well. A pt where u got to put focus no pun on ur motor's strengths instead of dreaming of a # on a graph.

Again to summarize, if 200hp was feasible u would see far more info on how to do it. Seen many builds over yrs with cool manifolds, big lumpy cams, more headwork than a nympho girlfriend, bored 20 over, race gas and they all end up 170-180.

Pick your poison. I toy with turbo idea on a zetec, but the duratec donor will be here next wkend.

Keep pushing

R
 
#101 ·
As I mentioned in a previous post. I'm not looking to hit 200whp. I have never even mentioned that number. I am just looking to make mods to my car that make it funner to drive. Tinkering with engines and cars is what I do for a hobby.
 
#103 ·
I'm not sure what you are asking here?

I don't have a shop per say. What I do have is a household garage with a fair amount of automotive tools in it. I guess you could call it an automotive hobby shop.... I don't solicit work. I do an odd job here or there if someone asks.
 
#105 ·
lol...gotta love auto correct eh! I have my garage set up to use air tools. I port using a pneumatic die grinder with various double cut carbide burrs and sanding cartridge rolls.
 
#106 ·
I'm actually trying to find a Ford Racing head but the luck isn't there yet... maybe will plan to do a P&P on my stock one even if the valves are smaller...

I have a question about pistons, the JE one that is told that are 11.0:1 and other is 10.6:1, does its cause of a thin head gasket for the 11.0:1?

Part # Application Bore Size Compression Ratio
298717 2.0L Zetec 85.0mm (+0.18 Overbore) 11.0:1

And what does the +0.18 Overbore mean? I'm heading to put pistons in my N/A set/up that have a stock base engine(rod+crank+cylinder) and I dont want to oversize or something, I want everything to last long and no problems because its a rally car!

Thanks
 
#107 ·
Using a thinner head gasket will change the compression ratio, however piston manufactures usually base there listed compression ratios using a stock head gasket thickness. Unless otherwise noted.

If the pistons are listed with different compression ratios that is probably due to the pistons having a different dome/dish displacement and/or diameter. if you look at the pistons specs, it will list the Piston top as a Dome or dish and they usually list the volume in cc's. Using a piston of different bore will also slightly change the compression ratio.

When they list a piston as an overbore, that means the diameter is larger than stock. It also means that you will have to have the cylinders in the block bored and honed to match the pistons larger diameter. A 0.18 over bores will be just as reliable as the stock bore. It really is an insignificant amount to go.. basically gives you a reason to put a fresh hone on the cylinders [;)]
 
#109 ·
Yes you will have to take your engine block to a machine/engine shop and have the cylinders bored to 85mm. It will be as reliable as the parts you buy, the machine shops work and the person building the engine.
 
#113 ·
svt MAF

I have and 02 ZX3, with some stuff on it (FSWERS exhaust, OBX 4-2-1 headers, under drive pulleys , EGR delete, AEM CAI and tune) my question is, would I benefit from an SVT MAF, injectors and Pump or what should I do next? the reason I post on this tread is because those items are on the list.


Thanks.
 
#115 ·
I have and 02 ZX3, with some stuff on it (FSWERS exhaust, OBX 4-2-1 headers, under drive pulleys , EGR delete, AEM CAI and tune) my question is, would I benefit from an SVT MAF, injectors and Pump or what should I do next? the reason I post on this tread is because those items are on the list.Thanks.
The exh , header and AEM is the only performance adding mods you have , to change to a larger MAF with your small TB wouldnt be worth doing in my opinion

Tom
 
#116 ·
I'm full N/A build, will do a P&P+SVT inj. soon and I have cams stg 2 Cat Cams and some one in the drag racing world(expert) told me that I will be able to have 11.0:1 if I have a big cam on it, and it's quite big I would say... Still want the original thickness so it wont increase my compression. And all of that on the 94 Panta Fuel. What's the reason why you say I can't support that much? Thanks
 
#120 ·
I'm currently building a new motor for my 01 ZX3. The question that I have is, with a massive portwerks head, crower stage 3 cams and 4-1 race exhaust will the stock intake/MAF support the flow or choke my engine? Also will 10.6:1 be too high of compression for 91 octane?
probably not at all, with a tune, 11-1 is possible. Keep in mind that with a massive head, different head gasket, an cams, you will have a hard time calculating your new static and dynamic compression. All that stuff comes into play. You'll need to do some research about it. And if Tom says 10 to 1 is the limit, there must be a good reason with his experience. I am curious why 11-1 CR would be a problem with cams and 93 octane.

The SVT powerworks is putting 12 lbs of boost on an engine with 10.2 CR.
 
#121 ·
Hmmm i was looking at rebuilding my engine for my focus and going ITB.

The Plan so far is:

Suzuki GSXR 750 TB
SVT Lower manifold
Stage 2 Kent Cams
Adjustable Cam Gears
UDP's
PNP head with 1mm larger valves.
etc etc etc

My Question is that i read that if put a 1.8 head on my 2.0 it will increase the CR to about 10.9:1 and with a milling of the head of 0.040 it shuold take me to about 11.0:1.

Is it better to use pistons and rods designed for higher CR or use the 1.8 head?

This is for a weekend car that i will use for some fun with mates who have miatas doing hill climbes.
 
#122 ·
Anyone here ever instal a set of 30mm exhaust valves in the 2.0 head?

Just looking for some pro vs con information. Was it worth the work enlarging the exhaust seats not?
 
#125 · (Edited)
Wow, I wish I had read this thread before I started my "project"!

Now Im worried Im over doing it but there's no turning back now, DP is in pieces and parts are ordered and mechanic has time involved.

machined head bored 20 over
Comp stg3 Cams
Car had adjustable cams gears, not sure of the vendor....
JE 2618 Forged Aluminum Piston 85.5mm pistons 9.0.1 compression
Eagle 4340 Forged Steel H Beam rods with ARP bolts
ARP Main and head studs
C-F-M billet Oil Pump gear
Ford Racing Oil pump
Clevit Rod Bearings
FX-400 6 puck Clutch luk bearing on slave cylinder
SVT Header and CAT (Header is wrapped in red SickSpeed thermal wrap)
Bosal 2.25 Performance SS exhaust
RS Metal radiator fans
Crower springs with titanium keepers
Bostic SS Thermostat housing. 180 deg thermostat
C-F-M Tubular control arms with M00g ends
Massive speed sway bar end links
Prothane front and rear bushings

This isn't cheap, but I need a capable engine that hopefully will last, I've never had a standard so over reeving was never really an issue. Im sure that is what killed the current engine. Loss of oil and then cylinder 4 lost the rod through the block. Hole is almost the size of a quarter!

Only time will tell, and Im not looking to go 400 hp N/A, but I do want to fly sometimes, both of my stock duretecs seemed to hold their own. i just don't want to kill DP's engine while learning my 5 speed!
 
#126 ·
Well just finished working a 40 day shutdown and decided to spend the money anyway...lol

+1mm intake and exhaust valves with a 90% valve to throat ratio.


Went with 4 angle on the intake and 3 angle on the exhaust.... have to wait and see what the old DIY flow bench says. I have to calibrate it first. Waiting for a calibration orifice plate to arrive.

Picked up a 11.5lb Fidanza and Centerforce clutch as well....


Before anyone goes off and says that this is a waste of time..... remember, this is my hobby. Any time spent in the garage tinkering is time enjoyed! If there are benefits from it, that is a bonus to all of us.
 
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