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Old 03-20-2005, 05:12 PM   #1
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help me w/ dropping springs pls

okay. im trying to drop my car... i got off the front struts. but the only problem is that i cant get off the screw off the camber plate.. i use a wrench but it keeps spinning and i cant figure out why.
hers the part im talking about.

thanks

ps. i know this is in the wrong thread. sorry i just thought that to get a quicker reply i would place it in here because not many people read the suspension forums part. thanks


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Old 03-20-2005, 05:50 PM   #2
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You need to put an allen key in the shaft and the turn it. Do you have the springs compressed?? If not stop what you are doing. Or you can take it to a shop and have them swap the springs on the strut.
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Old 03-20-2005, 06:10 PM   #3
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another option, impact driver. That's how I got mine off. As noted above. definately have those springs compressed though or your likely to lose a body part you'd rather keep.

Have you done the back yet? I had to do some creative engineering to get the giant truck internal spring compresser that was available at autozone to work on the tiny car springs. Aaahhh suspension work, more fun than a barrel full of monkeys.

Oh yes, and go to hell for living in hawaii. Another thing, I see that you have a 2000, you may want to swap out the front anti-roll bar links with the new design ones, they are considerably better. more rigid rod, better ball joint design. cheap too, I think it was like 14 bucks each.
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Old 03-20-2005, 06:13 PM   #4
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Yep, like focuzedzx5 said, an allen wrench will stop that from spinning. But it's a pretty large size, so keep that in mind. And be sure to HAVE THAT SPRING COMPRESSED!!

BTW, what are you referrring to bwojdyla?
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Old 03-20-2005, 08:14 PM   #5
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thanks guys. yeah i figured it out. i got a vice grip and used a 18 mm socket to hold the bolt in place and used an allan wrench to twist it. no i didnt use a spring compressor. it wasnt that bad actually. it flew about 2 -6 inches after it got released. i used a rag to try and muffle the effect. thanks for the replies tho. :D
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Old 03-20-2005, 08:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
[i]Originally posted by bwojdyla
Oh yes, and go to hell for living in hawaii. Another thing, I see that you have a 2000, you may want to swap out the front anti-roll bar links with the new design ones, they are considerably better. more rigid rod, better ball joint design. cheap too, I think it was like 14 bucks each. [/B]
what is that? never heard of it. lol sorry... what do they do.? thanks
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Old 03-20-2005, 08:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by bwojdyla
another option, impact driver. That's how I got mine off. As noted above. definately have those springs compressed though or your likely to lose a body part you'd rather keep.

Have you done the back yet? I had to do some creative engineering to get the giant truck internal spring compresser that was available at autozone to work on the tiny car springs. Aaahhh suspension work, more fun than a barrel full of monkeys.

Oh yes, and go to hell for living in hawaii. Another thing, I see that you have a 2000, you may want to swap out the front anti-roll bar links with the new design ones, they are considerably better. more rigid rod, better ball joint design. cheap too, I think it was like 14 bucks each.
You mentioned the 00 models anti roll bars links, are those the same thing as the sway bar links A.K.A end links?
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Old 03-22-2005, 07:11 PM   #8
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Yes, they are the anti roll bar drop/end links. The first gen ones were updated over the years and are a substantially better design now.

Reasons,
1) the actual link - the link in the first gen part was a thin steel rod, the new part is a forged aluminum part - lighter, stronger, prettier

2) the ball joints - The gen one part requires you to use an allen wrench to hold the screw in place, which, more often than not strips. The new ones have two flats for holding the rod with a wrench. The grease caps on the other side on the first ones are plastic, the second ones are pressed metal caps.

3) the bolt on the first gen ones was straight steel, the new ones are coated in an anticorrosive agent.

So have I made my case?
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Old 03-22-2005, 08:45 PM   #9
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OK, I replaced my end links awile ago after they went out.

I'm pretty sure my ball joints are out, ford says I have to replace the whole lower control arm becasue they dont see it seperately, He called napa and said they carried them for 25 bucks each.

What should I do as far as my ball joints? but the ones from napa- but the problem with that is they have to be pressed in,
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Old 03-23-2005, 08:57 AM   #10
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Any auto machine shop will press them in and out for a few bucks. Most corner gas stations and auto repair places that have service bays will have a small press that will work. You can probably do it yourself if you or someone you know has a big bench vise. Its not a big deal. Ask the guys at the Napa store, I'm sure they can point you in the right direction. Some napa stores are associated with machine shops or have a surprising array of tools hidding in the back room.
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