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Old 12-10-2012, 03:34 PM   #1
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Question sway bar links

I have a broken rear sway link on my Focus sedan. Replacement looks simple, but my repair manual says to remove the spring first. Has anyone replaced these without removing the springs? Also has anyone removed the sway bar.


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Old 12-10-2012, 03:59 PM   #2
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You don't have to do anything like that... but you will have to replace them with the car on the ground so there's no tension on the sway bar.

With the car on the ground, replacing the sway bar links is easy.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:20 PM   #3
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Or at least jacked up so the whole rear is in the air.....
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:24 PM   #4
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If you have ramps you can back up onto them and swap out. That's what I did recently.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:25 PM   #5
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You generally have to remove the sway bar end links before removing the rear springs, I don't know how you could remove the springs with the lower control arms bolted to the sway bar.

So yeah, just slide under there without even jacking the car up and replace those rear endlinks with the rear tires on the ground, that's how I have done it (endlink removal) the half dozen times I have taken the rear suspension apart.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:24 PM   #6
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This is a job where the use of ramps is ideal.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:40 PM   #7
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Thanks to all for the advice. Would jacking up the control arm help?
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:59 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by rallynut View Post
Thanks to all for the advice. Would jacking up the control arm help?
its not needed... you can change them just by sitting/laying next to your car. its pretty simple and shouldnt take more than 10 minutes. I am not sure what the torque specs are just be sure to not over tighten them, you do not want to pancake the bushings
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:58 PM   #9
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X2

Getting the old ones off is the harder part, often need to just cut them.

And for rubber bushes, tightening 'til they "bulge" out to the washer edge is about right...
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:35 PM   #10
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No, jacking up one control arm twists the bar itself. Easiest to have car on ramps or BOTH wheels in air, as soon as you jack up ONE WHEEL the bar twists and loads both endlinks. That's why you never check endlinks with one wheel only jacked up, they will always appear tight then, even if junk. If car high enough simply crawl up under it.

Look at the through bolts, many have a limit shoulder, you simply tighten until you hit solid and stop. The rubber will be preloaded correctly then.
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