First post here and I have a question. First I've read about all the alignment problems and solutions related to the Focus. In this case, it's a 2002 Focus ZTS; mother in law's car.
It ate a set of tires way too quickly so after reading some posts, I took it to an alignment shop and had them give me a printout. Unfortunately I can't scan it but here's a summary of the printout:
Left Front - Camber -1*, Caster 2.4*, Toe -.78*
R. Front - Camber -1.4*, Caster 2.8*, Toe -.82*
L Rear - Camber -2*, Toe .19*
R Rear - Camber -2.3*, Toe -1.04*
No wonder it was eating tires [ohcrap] All 4 are shot [mecry]
Now the questions:
The toe is WAY off, can it be corrected without having to go with some aftermarket thing?
The rear camber worries me - posts I've read said ideally it should be -1.4*
Is it worth my time to install the aftermarket camber bolts or can I let this slide?
Just want to put this issue to rest because my mother in law is on a fixed income but I want this done right.
Thanks and glad to be a member of the board. [:)]
The camber numbers are acceptable IMO, and while the toe appears to be way off at both ends of the car nothing aftermarket should be required to get it back in spec. Although the stock rear toe adjustment is just an eccentric bolt, so it's range of adjustment is way more limited than the tie rods. I'm surprised you were able to get those numbers without them talking you into getting an alignment on the spot.
I guess I don't know if the stock setup is capable of getting that right rear back in spec. I suspect it would though.
Thanks again, I appreciate it!!
My opinion is that in addition to most if not all the toe settings being off the rear camber is also excessive. After lots and lots of research and experimentation with several other FF member we concluded the rear camber need not exceed -1.6 degrees for maximum tire life. You will need an aftermarket rear camber adjustment devise to lower your current settings. Camber bolts are the cheapest way are just fine for adjustments to a daily driver. There's also adjustable upper control arms which cost more but are also more precise.
Front toe should have just a smidgen of "toe-out" of about .02 degrees but no more if you still have stock rubber bushings. Go with zero toe if you have upgraded to polyurethane bushings. Rear "toe-in" should be .10 degrees. Toe is the only adjustable parameter from the factory.
PS.....You have to ask for these settings or you won't get them!!!!
Thank you for your response.
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