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Old 04-02-2009, 06:45 PM   #1
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Unhappy Looking for rear swaybar bushings Help!

I'm looking for D bushings for rear sway bar, 21mm preferably greasable.
Got this pic off the net. need something like this:

The ones that came with Steeda bar are no good. They start squeaking in 3 month if not greased.
I'm tired of taking this thing apart.

Will the ones from SVT work with Steeda brackets? Are they urethane?
Are there any other options?
Any help will be greatly appreciated and rep given out.
Thanks


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Old 04-02-2009, 07:24 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeFzX3 View Post
I'm looking for D bushings for rear sway bar, 21mm preferably greasable.
Got this pic off the net. need something like this:

The ones that came with Steeda bar are no good. They start squeaking in 3 month if not greased.
I'm tired of taking this thing apart.

Will the ones from SVT work with Steeda brackets? Are they urethane?
Are there any other options?
Any help will be greatly appreciated and rep given out.
Thanks
OEM SVT bushings will not work with the Steeda brackets i know because i tried and they are rubber.

Last edited by FX4BAJA; 04-02-2009 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 04-02-2009, 07:39 PM   #3
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Here is what your lookin for and i would say Prothane offers them also.Yea,you have to go with the slighty smaller 20.5mm size but it is a perfect fit i have them in the non-greasable type with no problems using the Steeda brackets and SVT bar.
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Old 04-02-2009, 07:49 PM   #4
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Also just in case anyone gets the Steeda brackets and wants to use the non-greasable type here is the correct ones.Just use the right hand chart to pick the correct part # for the size bar you will be using.I pointed out the correct part # for the 21mm SVT bar and yes it is also a 20.5mm part but these are the ones i use and they work and fit fine.
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:55 PM   #5
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thank you FX4BAJA!
The problem with steeda bushings is that they don't have grooves on the inside and grease is easily squished out, so it doesn't last long.
I was thinking to try svt bushings, but now I know they don't fit.
Whats wrong with the 9.5125 part that is for 21mm bar? (on the 2nd chart)
Also where did you get your set?
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Old 04-02-2009, 11:00 PM   #6
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I got my 25mm bushings from MassiveSpeed. They're EnergySuspension I think, identical to the ones in your pic. I'm sure they have the 21mm ones for you.
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Old 04-03-2009, 12:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeFzX3 View Post
thank you FX4BAJA!
The problem with steeda bushings is that they don't have grooves on the inside and grease is easily squished out, so it doesn't last long.
I was thinking to try svt bushings, but now I know they don't fit.
Whats wrong with the 9.5125 part that is for 21mm bar? (on the 2nd chart)
Also where did you get your set?
The 9.5125 are to small you need the ones that are 4-1/2" in length also that second chart are the Non-greasable ones.Since the Steeda retrofit brackets clamps around the rear crossmember it has a larger hole spacing pattern is why the OEM bushings and the smaller 9.5125 (3-5/8") Energy Suspension bushings want work the holes will not come close to lining up i tried the 9.5125 to.Both Jegs and Summit Racing sale them i bought mine from Summit Racings Ebay store.
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Old 04-03-2009, 01:44 PM   #8
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What kind of grease are you using BTW. Have you tried that White Lithium grease. That stuff seems to stick around for a while. I used it on some of my moving parts about a year and half ago and can still see it on there.
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Old 04-03-2009, 09:31 PM   #9
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I tried different types. I need grease on the inside. I have more than enough on the outside.
I just decided that it is time to get normal set of bushings with groves on the inside.
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:32 PM   #10
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So I got greasable set of bushings yesterday, and put them on today. They seem to work perfectly!
Also they move swaybar about 2mm back, which provides more clearance for endlinks and RCA. Before the metal washer was very close to the control arm like 1mm away. Now there is plenty of clearance.
Upgraded bolts and nuts as well. Couldn't find grade 8 locknuts, so had to get regular grade 8 nut and then follow with grade 5 lock nut so nothing gets loose.
Here is the pic:
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