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Old 02-25-2008, 03:29 PM   #1
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Help on rotors please!!!

I was just told my car needs new rotors to pass inspection. I figured I might as well upgrade them since I have to replace anyway.

I see that EBC slotted and dimpled rotors are cheaper per pair than powerslot rotors. Only by a few dollars, but I always thought the EBC slotted and drilled rotors were among the best for our cars.

Are Powerslot generally better? Or do you think it's ust a good deal on the EBC rotors? Any reviews or opinions by users that have either setup is greatly appreciated!!!!

Thanks,
Mario


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Old 02-25-2008, 03:54 PM   #2
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Please don't waste money on dimpled, drilled or slotted rotors. A good solid surface rotor like a Brembo or Centric provides better stopping performance especially if you match it to a performance pad. They also cost a whole lot less (check TireRack and AJUSA for decent prices).
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Old 02-25-2008, 03:54 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poisonivory View Post
I was just told my car needs new rotors to pass inspection. I figured I might as well upgrade them since I have to replace anyway.

I see that EBC slotted and dimpled rotors are cheaper per pair than powerslot rotors. Only by a few dollars, but I always thought the EBC slotted and drilled rotors were among the best for our cars.

Are Powerslot generally better? Or do you think it's ust a good deal on the EBC rotors? Any reviews or opinions by users that have either setup is greatly appreciated!!!!

Thanks,
Mario
Mario -

Step away from the slotted rotors unless the appearance factor is what is most important.

This is a long running dicussion on the forum. Lots and LOTS of reasons why to avoid the cross-drilled and slotted rotors with reasoning and explaination why.

Here are some references that should answer all of your questions:

Drilled and Slotted rotors

2003 svt brake pads and rotors
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:00 PM   #4
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thanks to both!!! I could care less about the appearance, my car isn't that cool. lol

Many thanks to both of you!! I'll check the Brembo's and Centrics. Thanks!!
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Old 02-25-2008, 05:36 PM   #5
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^^^You can get the Centrics from this site:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Ford/Focus.htm
That's where I got mine.
Paired with a set of Hawk HPS pads, you can't go wrong.
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Old 02-25-2008, 09:14 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by WD40 View Post
^^^You can get the Centrics from this site:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Ford/Focus.htm
That's where I got mine.
Paired with a set of Hawk HPS pads, you can't go wrong.
Thank you, thank you and THANK YOU!!! I really wanted a daily driven rotor/pad combo and it looks like I found one!!!!

And thanks to poisonivory for starting this thread!!!


Now if I can only get the rotors to not warp this time.....
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Old 02-25-2008, 10:43 PM   #7
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Rotors do not warp. They only get embedded unevenly which will cause that shuddering effect.
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:02 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by RB
I think the points have been made that need to. Its a matter if you want to take the advice of some very knowledgeable people.

You can modify your brakes for 2 reasons:
1) Performance
2) Looks

If you are looking for looks, ignore what folks have said here and buy what makes you happy.

If you are looking for performance, well...you just aren't going to get much improvement from the stock. I have run almost every rotor, caliper, and pad on lots of high performance cars. The cars that benefit the most from brake upgrades are heavier cars.

We are driving a 2700 car. That is light by todays standards. And we were blessed with very large rotors and pads from the factory. I have only found a very few flaws in our brake systems:
1) In wet weather you definitely get a water buildup on the pads that gives you a very spongy pedal and long stops until you evaporate the water (typcially 1 stop). So if this is a major concern, slotted rotors will fix this.
2) At maximum threshold braking there can occasionally be a slight right or left pull. This could be attributed to the master cylinder not providing equal hydraulic pressure. Something you can likely fix with steel braided brake lines and upgraded brake fluid. NO pads, rotors, calipers are gonna help here. Personally, I think its more the lack of center track of my Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3s.
3) Factory made the pad compound harder than rotors. Give very positive feel at the cost of eating away the rotors. You wanna brake more? Then you will eat through your rotors and pads even faster.

And there are many pluses to our brakes:
1) They stop when cold
2) Never had a problem with overheating
3) Not many warping problems reported (though you can get pad buildup on rotor that feels like warped rotors)
4) Consistent, no fade, linear

Don't get me wrong. I have tossed complete brake systems out and started over (SHO was notoriously under braked). But other cars like my 914-6 there just wasn't much more braking you could extract. The factory brakes with 4 pot designs that seem to me identical to current Brembo design.

So ask yourself what are you looking for. If you want additional pedal feel and modulation, get brake lines and fluid, if you NEED 2-3 feet additional stopping power, upgrade your pads (plus rotors as factories are soft).

If you want looks, only you know what you are looking for...

Excellent synopsis.

Lou -

No one here is trying to flame you on your decision to use a cross drilled rotor.

I think the intent of the posts, Geezer, Miniboon and others, is to help educate you on the potential pitfalls of using a cross drill rotor.

As technology has progressed, the need for cross drilled rotors has gone away. In fact, with most racing applications a solid rotor is employed and slotted rotor employed only for weather related set ups.

With cross drills, the biggest hazard is an increase in stopping distance because of a reduced sweep area for the brake pad. To combat this, a more aggressive "race type" pad is used. This is also a dangerous element because to work properly, race pads need to come up to temperature quickly. That simply doesn't happen on the street and the result is increased stopping distance.

Cracking occurs when the rotors become overheated. This leads to intense brake squeal and pulsation. The squeal is annoying, but it is also an indicator that the pads are struggling to bite the surface. The pulsation is a result of overheating and can be quite disconcerting under heaving braking as the pad skips across the rotor surface. In either case, braking force is reduced.

These are things to be aware of when shopping for the "cool factor". Odds are that you will NOT stop quicker. There may be a psychological comfort zone, but the reality is different.

Just keep that in mind.

Good luck! ( That Was Your Post ) thumb's up 100% i agree with on cross drilled and slotted because my powerstop rotors suck along with my ceramic pads, i was doing 70 mph coming from Raliegh NC back home to jersey when all of a sudden a deer jump on the freeway i hit my brake pedal all i felt was my car slidding and not coming to a slow stop, bang!!! sorry 4 the deer it die... base on my experience with slotted and crossed drill u cant count on then their just fashion look's on your car. Now where can oi get those rotors i can count on worth putting on my focus? Oh" btw damage on my focus was $3,500 i had to replace the front' lucky the body frame never got bented.,
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