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Old 02-17-2008, 11:36 PM   #1
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Rear Lower Control Arm Bolt Seized, need ideas...

Hey guys. So I finally got around to throwing on my Steeda Springs and eibach sway bar kit. Rear sway bar came off without a problem. But the lower control arm bolt is siezed, on the one side I worked it and got it loose, BUT the metal sleeve/bushing going through the control arm is siezed to the bolt. So the bolt will not slide out, just seperates the bottom of the spindle.

I let it split open the bottom of the spindle, put heat to her for like 10mins (propane) with vice grips. Even took a grinder and knubbed in 2 flat spots on the sleeve and tried vice grips again with lots of heat, and its STILL siezed. Now the rubber is burnt and crisp. any ideas? I think Im about ready to just try and cut them out the best I can but it will be a big pain. They will be replaced but need them out first. I didnt make the pic smaller... sorry.



And yes, Im going to be replacing the drums/wheel bearings and putting some flat black over some of that rust, doesnt look that bad really but in the pics it really stands out lol.

Any ideas guys?? Someone else MUST have had this problem... except you guys in the states with no salt... lol.


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Old 02-18-2008, 12:30 AM   #2
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Here's what I use at work for rusted bolts and it always works for me...Get a can of PB Blaster. Works better than Liquid Wench or any other product like it. Spray the crap out of it and let it set for awhile, then do it again! Next beg, barrow or buy a "ZipGun" a air hammer to some people. Barrow a compressor if you don't have already. Bought my "zipgun" at Autozone for $20. Comes with some chisels and a pointed bit that I grouded down to blunt the point. It's pretty hard to keep the bit on the end of the bolt so I use a flat piece of steel between the bolt and zipgun. And for that rust....There is a product out there that you brush on and CONVERTS rust to iron oxide or something else I can't remember exactly but you can paint over it because it acts like a primer. Thats all I got man, good luck!

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Old 02-18-2008, 12:40 AM   #3
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Thanks Rick, I forgot to mention that I was using a impact gun to try and get it out. Its a descent electric one from Canadian Tire. I have a air impact aswell from Blue Point but my compressor is only a 2 gallon 100psi... so didnt even bother trying it. Yeah I was going to go get some Krown Rust Stuff... supposed to be good. I did use crappy WD-40... but no go. What is PB Blaster? Whats the PB stand for...?
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Old 02-18-2008, 01:52 AM   #4
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Its just the initials of it. You can find it at napa or w/e. I had the same issue, ended up cutting the bolts off of the lca and just purchased new ones (lcas) with new bolts. I tried air chizel and such and they were completely siezed.

http://www.blasterchemical.com/store...m?Product_ID=1
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Old 02-18-2008, 02:11 AM   #5
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dont bother, just cut them out. Its not a big deal. Think about it, if you took all the time youve spent so far trying to turn it out and instead just cut it you would be done.

The bushings are steel, and the bolt and the bushing have become one piece of metal. You will not get it out at this point.

It took me about 20-30 minutes per bolt on a 5 gallon air tank. I had to cut all 4. It sucked with the small tank...

and for goodness sakes get you jack under the control arm before you hurt yourself. It is doing nothing but holding the control arm into the knuckle right there. Theres a chance it will slip off of it once it comes loose... Just put the jack head right under the spring. the brake drum and knuckle are held up by the trailing arm and the front toe arm, so dont worry about it falling down.
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Old 02-18-2008, 02:36 AM   #6
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This shit happened to me when i put adjustable toe control arms on...i had to cut 2 bolts with a grinder. go get one from Lowes or Home Depot, a good one, like $70+ with preferably a reinforced metal grinding blade (or 2, in case it breaks). They will come off with this. then a hammer will definitely help getting that crap out or a pry bar! good luck!
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Old 02-18-2008, 07:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illinipo View Post
and for goodness sakes get you jack under the control arm before you hurt yourself. It is doing nothing but holding the control arm into the knuckle right there. Theres a chance it will slip off of it once it comes loose... Just put the jack head right under the spring. the brake drum and knuckle are held up by the trailing arm and the front toe arm, so dont worry about it falling down.
Ya I see what your saying, I will move the jack under the spring, thanks.

I have a grinder with cutting discs, that was my next step but wanted to know if there were any other tricks... its gonna be a pain. Thanks for the help guys, I was gonna take a bunch of pics so people can post them with lowering instructions and how to install front and rear sway bars. Pics are always helpful!

I will let ya know how it goes... get some pics up here.
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Old 02-18-2008, 08:45 PM   #8
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I hear ya. Just finishing installing a Roush kit on my sons ZX3. Had 1 bolt on each control arm seized in place. Ford obviously doesn't put any kind of anti-seize on the bolts during assembly and the bolts/collars rust into 1 piece. We cut the bolts off with acetylene torch and cut-off wheel, bought two new control arms and bolts and put it together. Figure on the inner bolts being seized as well so alignment is out of the question.
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Old 02-19-2008, 07:07 AM   #9
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Had the same issue when installing my suspension. Had to grind off the bolt head and nut, then punch out the bolt shank. Then it was a trip up to the ford dealer for two new control arms.
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:09 AM   #10
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Had the same problem on mine but I took a different route. We left the bolts on and went to O'Reillys auto parts. They had a old style MacPherson spring compressor there that had U-joint bolt on brackets that clamped on and still left plenty of room. 10 minutes for either side and the springs popped right out.

Yeah!
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