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Old 02-21-2005, 06:37 PM   #1
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got head?

well, just short of 12k miles, I pulled the plugs and found out that not only were my plugs not properly gapped from the factory, but I have 2 cylinders hemmoraging oil! I always wondered why my brand new car was eating so much oil...half a quart per oil change. time to yank the head, and since I'll have it off, I may as well send it for a P&P and upgraded valve springs so I'll be ready to slap cams in it when they come out.


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Old 02-21-2005, 06:41 PM   #2
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Why don't you get Ford to fix it, or are you over 36,000 already?
Course, you wouldn't be getting a P&P with the deal.
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Old 02-21-2005, 07:58 PM   #3
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I work at the dealer

while I'm "waiting for the new valve seals" the head will be at the machine shop
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Old 02-21-2005, 08:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by crazymechanic
I work at the dealer
^^^Doh!!! ^^^
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Old 02-21-2005, 08:53 PM   #5
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Just the man to answer my question!!

What the hell are the buckets?

I'm about to do the same thing (head swap) and my buddy Wayne warned me to "keep the buckets straight" when shipping it. I didn't get a chance for him to clairify what the hell the buckets were.

I know pushrod heads, but these new overhead jobbies are kind of new!!
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Old 02-21-2005, 09:12 PM   #6
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ok, there's two styles of overhead cam setups. one is what you find on the mustang heads, where you have a relatively small base circle camshaft riding over a set of rocker arms. there's a hydraulic lash adjuster on one end of the rocker and the valve on the other end. the other type of overhead cam is what we have. it is a mechanical setup. the buckets are the discs that the cam lobes ride on. when you remove the cam, and use a small magnet to remove the bucket, you'll see that it is shaped like a bucket. as far as keeping the buckets straight...I'm not sure I understand what your buddy means by that. you do need to make sure the buckets stay in the head where they were installed, because otherwise the cam lobe to bucket clearance (aka valve lash) won't be correct. the buckets come in different thicknesses so that you can adjust the lash. all you need is a set of feeler gauges to slip between the lobe and the bucket. if the lash isn't properly adjusted, you will have excessive valvetrain noise, improper valve lift, and premature valvetrain failure.
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Old 02-21-2005, 09:27 PM   #7
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Makes perfect sense! Thanks, Man! I'll have the cat at the junkyard leave the cams in so the buckets don't fall out just to be sure.

BUT . . . if the buckets DO get mixed up, they could be placed back in the right places with a little trial and error on the part of the machine shop, right?

BTW what kind of gains are we looking at with a good P&P?
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Old 02-22-2005, 08:10 AM   #8
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you probably could do some trial and error to get them back in the right place, but it would be a pain in the butt. you have to torque (to PROPER torque spec) the cam bearing caps down and measure each bucket, then pull the cam off, change the bucket, reinstall the cam, and remeasure. the easiest way to do it is to get a complete set of standard size buckets, install them, and write down the measurements. you can then easily see which ones need thicker buckets, and you can buy what you need. they shouldn't be too expensive.
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Old 02-22-2005, 12:39 PM   #9
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THX!

You've just about convinced me to DIY this thing . . .
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Old 02-22-2005, 04:27 PM   #10
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yeah, adjusting the valve lash is easy enough to be a DIY job. most people just have the machine shops do it because it's easier to pay someone else. besides, then you just have to bolt the head on to the car, and the cams will keep the buckets from falling out. it's really just a question of preference. plus, if you have the machine shop set it all up, and something goes wrong after you put the head on the car, the machine shop can't say that you messed up setting the valve lash so they aren't responsible for the damage.
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