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-   -   If you've repaired an SVT with a broken timing belt, I need your help! (

Silver_SVT 04-02-2013 12:44 AM

If you've repaired an SVT with a broken timing belt, I need your help!
Well, my luck ran out at 79,500 miles and it looks like I'm in for some repairs. I'm hoping that it is just bent valves and that the pistons survived but I'll know more when I tear it down tomorrow.

While the head is at the machine shop, should I have a cleanup cut done to clean the deck surface? Also, should I stick with OE head gaskets? Also are the head bolts TTY or are they re-useable?
I'll need to do some research on setting up the valvetrain so if anyone knows of a good guide with specs and good photos, help me out please.

I'm used to Mod motors and windsors and have built a few motors but I've never gotten into the guts of a zetech before.

If the shortblock is toast, I'll be back to do some more research as I may just use it as an opportunity to build it for boost.

Thanks in Advance.

redSVT_03 04-02-2013 01:17 AM

yikes and people said I was strange for changing mine at around 77k. Unfortunetly It was timed 180 out and had to get my head rebuilt. At that point I didnt have the tools or the know how but after having the head rebuilt, new head gasket and vct celenoid I was in the hole about 2400. This was through a shop so of course if you can do the work yourself it will be alot cheaper, probably between 700-1000 for the headwork. my pisons survived their encounter with the valves and even snapped 5 off (strong starter I guess...) anyways I hope this helps good luck

pdavison9241 04-02-2013 10:09 AM

I've just ran into this problem myself and have a thread related to the issue. Unfortunately I am asking the same kind of questions that you are and haven't gotten any strong responses yet. The timing belt idler pulley failed on me though, not the belt itself. I am intending on putting a three-angle cut on the valves and appropriate cuts into the seats. I would like to port and polish the head, but I don't think that I will really see any results until if/when I ditch the dual runner intake manifold and go for a much tougher tune. So for me I am going to stick with the valve job and leave everything else stock. I'm just using it as my daily anyways so I don't need much. I just wanted to take advantage of the situation since the head needs machining anyways.

Silver_SVT 04-03-2013 04:33 PM

Got it torn down, 6 bent valves (4 exhaust, 2 intake) for sure. Pistons did not sustain any damage. The belt had several cracks in it despite the somewhat lower mileage.
I'm going to disassemble the head and check all the valves and guides and see if the seats still seal up with the good valves.
Still wondering if I should do a cleanup cut on the deck surface or not.

pdavison9241 04-03-2013 04:48 PM

I've just finished disassembling my block and found the crank in need of work as well. I am also going to replace the pistons and rods as they are a little scorched from blow-by. I have 174k on my motor so I don't know if you need to go that deep. I am going to the machine shop on the 'morrow. I will post the results from their analysis on here when I get them. Maybe the results from my engine can help you. I'm just glad that I went ahead with a complete tear-down. Now I know that I can get an additional 100k out of that engine (provided that I build it correctly).

Silver_SVT 04-03-2013 04:56 PM

Sounds good, I'll keep you updated as well.
I may do a cartridge roll cleanup of the ports but I am impressed with the casting of the heads in stock form. The valve guide bumps are minimal, no major valve shrouding in the chambers. The port roof of the exhaust could maybe come up a little bit but it likely won't be worth much-I'll likely get a valve job done and have new guides fitted if there is any damage.

1turbofocus 04-04-2013 12:46 AM

If you surface the head just take enough to clear it .002-.003 you dont want to take any if it checks good
Yes go with the stock HG they work great better then the cometic , make sure its for the SVT , the SVT depending on who you ask is .039 to .041 , the Zetec is much less

I would go with a set of ARP head studs , make sure you TQ them down 6-7 times and use molly lube that comes with them

tukaniSVT 04-04-2013 01:00 AM

I rebuilt my motor after a catastrophic failure.

When I did it, I also brought my head to a machine shop for inspection and to reset all of the valves.

Had to buy new valves, I bent my Intake Valves when I timing belt went out.
I also bought a new head gasket and new bolts. The bolts are NOT reusable. All of the pressure to keep it together and then you release them, stretches the metal some. And that little bit is alot on your head.

Then I put it back together. Took me and some fellow fanatics about 8 hours to put the engine back together and restart it. It felt good.

After a year now, still running strong. And I take the SVT to AutoX every month.

You may want to buy a new timing belt as well here and new couplings for your intake manifold. By this time the timing belt will be shot and the couplings are probably warped.

Good luck getting it back together. The machine shop will tell you if you have a bad head. But I think you are good.


Silver_SVT 04-04-2013 10:11 AM

Timing belt-Ouch

Cylinder 1 Exhaust Valves bent

Cylinder 2 Intake valves bent, Exhaust valves off the seat-NFG

Cylinders 3 and 4 held solvent in the chamber overnight so I think it's safe to say that the valves and seats are likely unscathed. The intake valves in Cylinder 1 were also closed when the belt let go.

I'll go with the ARP studs-just because I hate dealing with Torx fasteners and adapters as I could not find a T55 in 1/2" drive locally.
I'll also get the deck surface checked and if we do cut, we'll make it minimal.
Thanks guys.

Silver_SVT 04-04-2013 10:25 AM

Another question: can you re-use the harmonic balancer bolt-or is it a TTY?

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