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svtfocusmansvt 08-30-2004 08:58 PM

T/C Kill Switch ??
I have done extensive research into the whole T/C kill switch and have a few unanswered questions such as if the fuse is a 7.5 amp, which size amp rating switch should I use to prevent from overheating/blowing the switch? Does the switch have to be on to run the traction control, because by the wiring design it has to be on to run the t/c? Or is their a way to wire it so you turn the switch on to kill the t/c? And what size gauge is needed for 7.5 amps[???:)]

mrspeed 09-01-2004 10:10 PM

I just made and installed that switch today and I don't think it's really that complicated, though I am still just and Electrical Engineering student, so correct me if I step out of line.

First of all, 7.5 amps isn't that much, so just go with something small like 14 or 16-gauge wire.

As for the switch, what difference does it really make whether the switch has to be on or off for it to work (really there's no practical way around the "on-to-work" method, because when a switch is off, the circuit is broken, thus no power is being supplied to the TC or ABS). And if it's really that big of a problem, just mark out the "On" and "Off" labels on the switch and you won't know the difference.

Also, most standard switches that you'll find laying around or in the general interior electronics section of you local auto parts store are rated between 10 and 30 amps. A switch simply touches and pulls apart 2 pieces of metal to connect a circuit, so you're not going to hurt it by under powering it.

And, finally, if anything does go terribly wrong and your switch/fuse can't handle it and burn out, then your ABS and Brake lights will come on and you may have to replace the $0.10 fuse.

SVTmonkey 09-02-2004 12:26 PM

When I use my switch, my e-brake light goes on as well...anybody else have this?

Turbo_SVT420 09-02-2004 03:14 PM

ive never pulled the fuse, or made a switch. does it help enough to go through the trouble of doing it? T/C pisses me off, when i accidently leave it on from like a 40 punch. downshift into 2nd, tires spin, catch and it throws the RPMS DOOOOOWN. gets VERY iritating even though i still woop up on the little hondas that roll around this town lol :P

hogy72 09-02-2004 03:59 PM


Originally posted by SVTmonkey
When I use my switch, my e-brake light goes on as well...anybody else have this?
Yes, e brake light, ABS And Traction control all go off, by the way, the switch rocks :)

sidney61199 09-02-2004 04:15 PM

I think I have posted on evey T/C switch post but I have one more question (want your opinions). Say you installed the T/C switch and 7.5" wide rims (stock is 7") and stick some real nice tires on them. With the extra grip and all the launch you could want how much do you think that would improve 0-60 or 1/4 mile times? I would think being able to give it hell and not have any or maybe a little wheel slip on launch (do to better tires and wider rims) you would really improve your times but I have no idea how much. I really want to get 7.5" rims on my SVT, that is a whole foot wider (or 12" which ever you prefer). I would think it would greatly increase handling and traction.


Turbo_SVT420 09-02-2004 10:02 PM

^^^ yeah i wanted to put some BIG STICKIES on my SVT... some 235/45/17... possible 245's. im tired of the little 215's

sidney61199 09-03-2004 12:35 AM

The recomended max on the stock rims (17x7's) are 225's which are a little wider than the 215's but I would love to have the 7.5"s on my car with some real nice tires. I can get tires if I really wanted to (my stock's have some decent tread left) but I can't hardly swing rims and tires. I'd be looking at over a grand and thats a little too rich for my blood. I may just end up getting the 225's, I'm sure I would still be happy with the small amount of extra width they gain me.

xgambit 09-03-2004 02:00 AM

i wish someone would come out with a chip that would make the stock TC disable switch fully work. it doesnt seem so hard.

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