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"How To" - SVTF Header Wrap

152K views 367 replies 99 participants last post by  daspazzZX3 
#1 · (Edited)
I haven't seen this done yet, at least not in a way that looks nice.....

Header Wrap HOW-TO:

NEEDED ITEMS:
-Header Wrap (1 roll of 50'x2" is reccommended for 4-cyl engines) I had about 18" left over with that length
-Metal ties
-(optional) silicone spray sealant for wrap
-Hose Clamp(s)

TOOLS:
-2 jackstands
-Jack
-Breaker bar
-Sockets 8mm, 10mm,113mm
-PB Blaster
-Metal sheers

1. 8mm socket for header cover shield bolts (4 top, 2 bottom) (may need PB blaster to break free)(my bottom ones were already popped off the shield) re-attatch line after bolt is off
2. metal sheers to cut header heat shield
3. HAVE FUN cutting the heat shield to pieces…….
4. PB Blast the header attachment bolts and let soak
5. remove the header bolts and cat bolts…..10mm & 13mm…I loosened the header first, them went under and separated the cat and the header. Breaker bar for cat bolts. My cat bolts are not stick size.
6. pull out dipstick, it pills out
7. remove header from engine…I took it out from below.
8. Replace dipstick and cover manifold holes to keep dirt out.
9. OPTIONAL……I painted the top of the header with the HI temp Silicone paint to make it have a finished look….
10. Wrap the header…….Took me over an hour…have fun I used a hose clamp at the bottom of the header for the last part of the wrap to secure the two pieces together. I will check on that and see how it holds up to the heat.
11. Seal the wrap by painting with Hi-Temp silicone paint……it says that curing happens at 400 Deg. I will be curing mine by installing and running my car….I do not have an oven available…..3 coats seemed like enough.
12. install the header making sure not to smear the paint if you did not bake the header. Install is the reverse of removal.
13. install the dipstick
14. check all bolts for tightness once again
15. start car, and let it cook off all the header wrap residue and paint…it WILL SMOKE a LOT. As in tremendous amounts of SMOKE.....
16. I have driven the car for a day, and it has stopped smoking, but it smells from time to time like it’s burning off. I can now touch the headers without burning my hand. Under hood temps have def been reduced.

the car still smells a lil bit, and it has been a few days now......it baked on nicely though.

PICTS:

Supplies:


Nice, shiney header heat shield:


bolt removed to allow repositioning of P.S. line (so I wouldn't cut it with the shield):


bending shield to remove:


Metal sheers:


underside......need to cut here:


Popping the rivets off the sides of the shield.......almost there....


it's OFF!!!!! and it looks hideously ugly....


well, it's in one piece.....save it for the collection....


remove header from cat and engine block........pretty simple....


wrapping the header......have fun, it takes a bit....I had about 18in left over when I was finished....


showing the amount of overlap I used.....



I did it in this order:





I had to cut the one area by the lower bolt to get the wrap to lay flatter on the header....

That is the header wrapped.....next I silicone painted it to seal it.....
I did 3 coats:

1-2 coats:


finished.....it's almost a powder, so you have to be carefull not to smudge the paint....I held it by the wrap......

nice and pretty.....

next I reinstalled it....and this is the result [:)]




view from below:



so...HOW MUCH does it smoke??????

like THIS for 10 min.......


It took me 5-6 hours, taking my time, not messing up, doing it correctly.......

have fun [:)]
 
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#5 ·
the water method does simplify the install as well as taking about half the time. when i wrapped mine, first i grinded the shield mounts off. it looks waay cleaner. take a look in my gallery. i am going to redo mine when warmer weather hits. though, this time i am getting the black wrap. ihave my orp wrapped as well, but no pics sorry.
 
#6 ·
wow i have to say im impressed, that looks really good. ill most likely be taking that route in the spring.
 
#7 ·
Nice write up! [thumb]
Keep the extra hints coming as well folks, like the soaking the wrap in water comment.

So, what color did the silicone paint turn after it got heated up?
Man, that was a lot of smoke! [eek]
 
#9 ·
well i can put it this way after i removed the heat sheild i couldn't even touch the header(why would i try>because i did), after the heat wrap i could place a finger on it(yes i tried it again) i held in the heat enough for me to put my finger on it
 
#10 ·
That is one thing i agree with Tom on, you need to soak each piece in warm water before you wrap the header. It will wrap alot tighter and conform smoother. Very good write up though. It will steam for a good 20 mins after youre done.
 
#11 ·
And yes, wrapping the header does help. If you have an ORP, it does very well on that too. Keeps the heat going out the back and off the oil pan.
 
#13 ·
Only thing I worry about is overheating the header. I like the idea of having the inside and outside of the header coated with some sort of insulation like the jet hot coat. I have the wrap still laying around in my house. When it gets warmer I am probably going to put it on.


BTW has anyone else noticed a VERY RAPID degradation/rusting of your dip stick sheeth? The heat from this tubular header really screws it over.
 
#14 ·
another thing is the silicone spray. it is a flake-like paint. and it seems that the "flakes" never cure. mine is beginning to burn completely off. that is another reason i am going with DEI's black wrap come spring.
also, and i dont know if anyone else had this problem. but the ties they suggest you use, are crap. i just went out and bought stainless hose clamps and they work great!
 
#16 ·
I didn't know about the water trick.....

it cured the same color as the paint.......it looks exactly the same after it cures...

I bought everything at Advance Auto Parts

...and those ties are a bitch, but I got them to hold....
 
#20 ·
Yup, this is next on my list of mods. Black wrap the header and my ORP. Has anyone had the cosworth header jet hot coated? I am also thinking about doing that. I'll probably wrap it though. Looks great man and that's a a great looking engine bay. Clean
 
#22 ·
I used the Thermo TEC Hi Temp silicone spray on my downpipe/orp/flex and it seems to hold up pretty good.

I also wrapped the DP as well... I like wrap better than jet coating.
 
#25 ·
Uh oh. I hope you don't mind the fact that you are damaging that wonderful piece of Cosworth engineering. Header material needs to breathe and by wrapping it you are basically choking it.

All explained here: http://www.centuryperformance.com/heatwraps.asp
 
#26 ·
lol, looks like and reads like a big ol jethot coating ad.
year and a half on an s/c svt with absolutely no problem and it cured two other problems that cost more than a new header would. cooking the paint on my hood and damage to my cooling fans and components. and yes, i have unwrapped and rewrapped to check them.
and no, header wrap doesnt cause rust on the svt header since its stainless.
on a regular mild steel tubing header (pacesetter, etc)rust will be about immediate.
and do soak the wrap before applying, it lays nicer and is easier to work with.
this is the only decent pic i have of mine.
 
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