Installing starter on a split port ford engine
Well, here I am again, to see other's experience on putting in a starter on a Ford split port engine. I just finished joining the donner engine back to the transmission. As you all know the split port engine drops valve seats occasionally and I got myself another one to replace the junk one.
I am dumfounded at the design of most of the stuff in this engine. Like right now I just snapped the head off one of the four bolts that holds the support bracket for the incredibly large intake manifold.
I can't believe I have to remove that bracket to wiggle the starter in, and I've got the whole engine and transmission hanging on a chain above the car. You'd think I'd be in a great position to drop in a starter. Nope.
Back to the incredibly large intake manifold on the split port engine. Do you realize how much junk could be removed from that engine by using a carburator instead of fuel injection? I've been looking at the side of that motor for a few days and can't get that thought out of my head. You'd be able to reach over and change the oil fitre (filter) from above for one thing.
If I have an engine out and the transmission off,I lay the starter in the manifold,bolt the trans on and slip the starter in.But if you have the engine and trans together you need to take that bracket off and wiggle it in there.I don't think the boys who design these things have to work on them.
Thanks, that's what I ended up doing, however the bolts holding the bracket to the intake manifold are not very good metal and I twisted the heads off them, trying not to twist the heads off them.
As an aside note:
Don't you think that intake manifold system and air intake system is a bit of overkill?
Does that engine really require that much air intake routing for the engine to run?
My own thoughts are that an air cleaner over the the intake opening to the manifold would remove five feet of conduit around the battery.
Also: why not remove 70 % of the lower part of that intake manifold, is it really necessary?
To run? it doesn't need all that .It is necessary if you want any of the 110ft lbs of torque that it offers. That manifold design is very common... seems like they found the perfect runner length for torque and fuel economy for 1.8-2.0L sohc engines. Even the early 80's and late 70's BMW 1.8 and 2.0 engines used the same design... they just had more room being RWD so it sticks straight out instead of making a 90* bend over the starter.
You could just stick a pair of carbs or individual throttle bodies on it... custom adapters not included. I have dual carbs on my BMW, manifold length is about 4" and the carbs add another 3-4"? Low end power is nothing... but the engine I have is built for 7500+ RPM (Camshaft itself makes maximum power over 7500rpm) . It is also a 2.0 sohc.
The SPI... designed for torque (I suspect). Top end power is nothing. Cam is definitely designed for a low-mid range RPM. You would be very disappointed with a short runner manifold.
In other news though... that sucks. I've never had trouble with doing the starter with everything installed. Except for the bracket... that had to move.
Yes, I agree, the starter is a PITA to replace. I didn't
so much mind maneuvering the starter in place (a pain
yes, but doable with scrapped knuckles the result!)
It's trying to connect the cables on without cross
threading the nuts!!!
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