I am curious. How many of us with the SPI Focus engine had a valve seat drop? How did it happen? What # cylinder was it? How many miles were on your engine?
My SPI Escort did @ 173k miles, dropped #4, fixed it by adding a USED piston/rod from a JY motor, did not remove motor, new bearings, etc. Running good now
My 2002 SPI Focus that I just picked up a few days ago for $400 did the same thing, dropped a vlv seat on #4 @ 98k miles, ordered 4 new pistons and remaned head, again doing a motor in car rebuild. Total cost for BOTH cars will be $1000 to fix ($500 each). This car will be worth $4k when im done with it but I may keep it as a DD or sell the escort.
I just joined the club. Cylinder #3 dropped the seat on startup. Luckily the engine never started, just turned over a few times. Just got the head off yesterday and it looks like everyone else's. This happened right at 160k miles on a 2004 LX. I also found a crack in my exhaust manifold on #3 and #3 injector was dirty.
^Still be sure to clean out the intake and EGR, I am sure you have researched whats needed, if you have any questions just ask, I have rebuilt 3 of these motors and have a 4th in the garage to start on tomorrow, luckily this one was in the junk yard with a shredded timing belt instead of the valve drop issue!
Parked the car in the driveway long enough to open the garage, and clunk! No way I could do it myself so I forked over $2600 to haveit fixed. Now i'm really paranoid. This chapped at 114k and it's now 134k
engine, harness, ecu, alternator, intake tube, and passengerside motor mount was 500.
I Spent 300 on water lines, vacuum lines, powersteering line, timing belt, throttlebody, thottle cable and a few other odds and ends. The down pipe for the converter and the flex pipe was a mixture of cut up spi and zetec pipes. With a new universal flex.
I think my daughter's Focus SPI dropped a valve on no. 4. It will start and run but rough. When I rev it up there is a loud popping sound at the higher rpm during the rev. Drove it down the road and could hear the popping sound continuously.
When I pull the no.4 plug wire it makes no difference in how the motor runs. I pull any of the others the motor dies. Exhaust or intake valve maybe?
If its still running your in a good spot. Stop starting it, revving it and driving it. Because it sounds like you have lost all compression in that cylinder. The seat has probably came loose and hasn't dropped off the head yet. If you keep messing with it, it fall and it can and most likly will destroy the head cylinder wall(s) piston and/or rod.
Pull the head a get that rebuilt before its too late. You got lucky, fix it while you can.
2003 SPI with 158,000miles bit the dust. New member of the dropped valve seat club. Happened 2 blocks away from home so I got it to my garage. I consider myself lucky. Tires and battery are like new (what a shame). Deciding what to do with it. Would need piston kit, rebuilt head, etc. I am now driving my backup car so I have time.
Just replaced my head in 2002 Focus w 90K mi. It hadn't dropped a seat, but I figured I shouldn't wait for it to happen. Cost $275 for rebuilt head and $200 for gaskets, belts, head bolts, fluids, filters, and water pump. Amazon sent the wrong bolts. Their statement that "This fits your vehicle" was wrong.
Problems I encountered:
Thought indent in the rim of the serpentine pulley was the timing mark. The real timing mark can't be seen until the serpentine pulley is removed. No harm done.
One exhaust stud in cat conv flange snapped. I could wiggle it in/out a little, but it would not loosen more. Cut it flush and drilled it out. Used a good HSS bit with lots of oil. It took a while, but it stayed centered. Reattached with bolt/nut instead.
Forgot to put cam pos sensor back in before tightening intake manifold. Removing fuel rail from injectors gave enough clearance.
Neglected to torque rocker arm nuts, so there was some lifter noise. I didn't drive it or rev it. I am confident I can fix that tonight. The nice man at Cylinder Heads Intl explained that I should torque them and let them sit overnight because the lifters are pumped up too high now. Then run it for a few minutes, shut off, and retorque them.
My 2002 just droped a valve an it mangled at least two pistons and rods. I see all the information about where to get the heads, etc but where have you guys gotten the used/rebuilt rods from? I see some guys selling them for 50 bucks on eBay but that does not make sense when I can get brand new from the dealer for 30 more dollars.
The car has 150 k but was extremely well maintained and amazingly I think the block and lower end are in perfect shape. I can even still see the cross hatches on the cylinder walls.
My 2002 just doped a valve an it mangled at least two pistons and rods. I see all the information about where to get the heads, etc but where have you guys gotten the used/rebuilt rods from? I see some guys selling them for 50 bucks on eBay but that does not make sense when I can get brand new from the dealer for 30 more dollars.
The car has 150 k but was extremely well maintained and amazingly I think the block and lower end are in perfect shape. I can even still see the cross hatches on the cylinder walls.
Well, guess I can add mine to the list. Yes, I am a newbie to the Forum, but have had our SE wagon since 2000. We bought it with 16 miles on it from a dealer in Melbourne, Florida. It has lived it's entire 158k mile life in the state of Florida, with about fifteen trips to Tennessee and North Carolina. It decided to drop the number 2 valve seat at my wife's work just as she was being picked up by me and our little lady. Car had just gotten back from a trip to Tennessee and was showing a CEL with the readout of "Cylinder 2 Misfire". My stupidity for not taking it off the road sooner, as I have been researching the dropped valve seat issue, and was planning on doing it right after we got back. Guess I was not quick enough to act.[facepalm]
Anywho, car is on jack stands in front of the garage, with the head, exhaust manifold, and intake manifold (with all the other assorted bits) occupying my precious floor space IN the garage. Head goes to a very well known cylinder head only shop in Orlando, hopefully tomorrow, with a call out for piston and con rod in the WTB section here shortly.
No, no warning. When my son's car dropped the #4 valve seat it just died.
When I went to start it I heard a rattling on the #1 side and stopped cranking
it right away. Very little damage was done. Top of #4 piston was marked up and
rod bearing damaged. Replaced #4 piston/rod with a good used one and got a replacement/improved rebuilt head from odessa cylinderhead in Clearwater, Fl.
Running well now and am confident we will get a lot more miles out of the engine.
Well, I just joined the dropped valve seat club at 100,627 mi. #3 cylinder failed in my 2001 SE. Daughter was driving the car and end result was #3 rod went thru the block. This is a PIA, because of this problem, the cost of an engine is double what it should be, and you are buying the same problem. Any motor I find will need a new head before I can trust it. I guess there are replacement heads that correct this problem?
There are heads you can.buy. or you could buy an engine with a head that is still good and just replace the valve seats. (Timing belt, tensioner and oil pump if your so inclined) which wouldn't cost more than a couple hundred and a few estimate a hours on the job. Or you could opt for another engine, like a zetec
just had a valve seat failure at 133,000 miles, on a positive note I picked this car up for $500 and never had a problem in the past four months. I guess I will revive her..
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