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Old 08-09-2006, 06:17 PM   #51
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so take the header from a escort year 97-04? or an aftermarket one for an escort with the cvh egine? yea r97-04?
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Old 08-10-2006, 12:29 AM   #52
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OK I read and re-read this post a couple of times and have a few thoughts about pairing cylinders.
First, let's do some determination of where each cylinder is in the 4-stroke cycle in relation to the other cylinders.
If the firing order is 1-3-4-2, we can assume the following:

1 3 4 2
P _ _ _
_ P _ _
_ _ P _
_ _ _ P

And the blank spaces are representing the remaining cycles of the 4-stroke cycle.
So, with the 4-strokes being Intake Compression Power Exhaust in this order we can fill in the blanks as follows:

1 3 4 2
P E I C
C P E I
I C P E
E I C P

We read bottom to top for each individual cylinder's 4 stroke cycle.
Everyone follow? OK sorry for the Auto Shop 101 but I want to make this as clear as possible.
OK so we ask ourselves what are the best cylinders to pair up? We have seen the 1-3 and 2-4 pairings as well as the 1-4 and 2-3 pairings. So what is happening to the pairs mate as each cylinder is on the exhaust stroke?
Well lets look at the chart-in a 1-3 and 2-4 pairing we see:
when 1 is on the Exhaust the 3 is on the Intake.
when 3 is on the Exhaust the 1 is on the Power.
when 4 is on the Exhaust the 2 is on the Intake.
when 2 is on the exhaust the 4 is on the Power.

Conversely, in the 1-4 and 2-3 pairings, we find the following:
when 1 is on the Exhaust the 4 is on the Compression.
when 3 is on the Exhaust the 2 is on the Compression.
when 4 is on the Exhaust the 1 is on the Compression.
when 2 is on the exhaust the 3 is on the Compression.
Very interesting. Notice that they all are the same (180* apart) as opposed to alternating.
What I am attempting to show here is the natural pairings of 1-4 and 2-3 due to having each partner 180* apart on each revolution of the crankshaft. As each exhaust cycle starts, the partners cycle, the Compression, has had the exhaust valve closed for the cycle previous (Intake) and the cycle following (Power) thus eliminating any chance for reversion (the crossing over of exhaust gases being drawn in to the fresh intake charge) or having both exhaust valves open at the same time. This can happen as, in the case of 1-3 and 2-4 partnerships, as one exhaust valve starts to close the partners starts to open at the end of the power cycle.
What does this all mean: well, from the S&S Header website-quote:"The optimum situation is the four cylinder because of it's firing cycle. Every 180 degree of crankshaft rotation there is one exhaust pulse entering the collector. This is ideal timing because, as one pulse exits the collector, the next exhaust valve is opening and the vacuum created in the system pulls the exhaust from the cylinder. In this ideal 180 degree cycling the collector outlet diameter only needs to be 20% larger than the primary tube diameter. "
So, having the exhaust cycles firing 180 degrees apart would be the ideal situation.
And that, my children, is why I feel say the perfect exhaust pairing for the Ford 1-3-4-2 firing order is 1-4 and 2-3 matched as pairs in a 4-2-1 header.
Phew!
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Old 08-10-2006, 12:45 AM   #53
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wait, I thought I already figured this out? (although not in a scientifically represented pattern - thanks!)
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:02 PM   #54
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so any 4-2-1 header would do thebest, which is also what zetec uses?
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Old 08-11-2006, 04:32 AM   #55
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see it says it right here
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Old 08-11-2006, 07:50 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally posted by 02ztsian
.......And that, my children, is why I feel say the perfect exhaust pairing for the Ford 1-3-4-2 firing order is 1-4 and 2-3 matched as pairs in a 4-2-1 header.
Phew!
Which also supports what I have read about my header having the wrong (or at least not optimal) firing order.

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Old 08-15-2006, 01:35 PM   #57
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ebay item #110017966023

it's $160 with free shipping.
it has the correct firing order.
it has a corresponding motor.

Now it's simply a question of how the header-back system will work. With the right ammount of money it looks like it could work.

you could use this same year escort flex pipe (ebay item #170018764194) as a donor for the one escort flange you need.

So let's see-
Header- $160
Donor Flange- $50 (either get the flex from ebay or go to a junk yard and rip one, this is a highball esitimate)
Vibrant Hi-Flow Cat- $70
Universal Flex pipe (2.5" diameter)- $50
Welding- $200 (my best guess could be less or more)

Total is $530 (plus the "cat-back" of your choice)

Seems a little pricey, but probly worth it. I'll see what happens after the holiday season I'll have enough to try it out with my birthday and christmas money.
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Old 08-15-2006, 02:10 PM   #58
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why would you NEED a high flow cat? everything I've read about exhaust has stated replacing or removeing the cat is an overrated modification, often unnecessary. You usually don't see much benefit from doing it.

You could just have your own flex pipe welded with an excort flange pulled from ajunk yard or off eBay (as you stated), shouldn't cost more than $70 tops for a weld job of this type (rather than doing a custom type one). I doubt our flex pipe could be easily replaced with a 'universal' one anyway...

I was estimating $550-$650 WITH a cat-back exhaust.
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:08 PM   #59
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well you don't NEED a highflow cat. you can chop up your old one.

but it's all a fitment thing, I don't know if this header is going to leave space for a cat before our flest pipe. it may just end up flush with our flex, in which case you would have to chop up your cat anf fit it in after the flex.

again this is where I know nothing about exhaust and I don't know if you can legally put a cat behind the flex or if it defeats the purpose of a flex, etc.

but what I'm trying to get accross is that you might not be able to fit a cat before the flexpipe.

our flex pipe is pritty specific it curves all over the place and goes through alot of stuff, so if we can keep it there, thats great news!

Taking a second mental look at our setup it seems like it is going to fit right up to the flex pipe, so it might go somethign like this-

Header $160
Donor for escort flange- $50-ish
Donor for Focus Flange- $50-ish
Welding- $200-ish

which would fit your ideas playa, but heres the problem, with a possible solution!

IF the header leaves no room for the cat before the flex pipe you would have to-

chop off the flex pipe's top flange
put on the donor escort flange
chop off your stock exhaust flange
put it on top of your stock cat
chop off your stock cat before it bends
put on the focus donor flange
then connect the "cat-back"
PROBLEM: cat bacl will be too long because you had to put the cat-converter after the flex pipe
POSSIBLE SOLUTION: get the ZX3 cat back, it's about 6" shorter and might fit perfectly!
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:23 PM   #60
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i think the flex pipe is mostly there for two reasons, first to 'flex' while accelerating and braking (think of our egr adaptor bracket, it breaks like nothing because it's metal right onto metal) and second, to allow the exhaust setup to 'fit into' our engine bay strategically. I just think it would be easier to not mess around with the flex, and modify just the cat up front, with a new flange .... but we'll have to see. I am going to be able to afford an exhaust sometime in the next 6 months, but I am mostly waiting on our results from this (why get a cat-back if like you're saying a zx3 cat back would be a better fit?)
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