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Old 05-10-2006, 12:31 AM   #11
Atlanta800
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Alright, we ended up getting the Chilton manual for the car (we needed it for other things anyways). We followed that, it was more or less the same as that website. Anyways, be got it all wired up and everything is put back together pefect.

We started the car up, and the battery light is still on. So to check things we popped off the negative terminal while the car was running, no problem still running strong. So the alternator is fine. Stuck the car charger on the battery to see if it was low, it showed it as almost completely charged. We checked all the fuses in the engine and they were all fine (we didn't look at the fuse box in the cab). We will check the voltages tomorrow, but is there any other reason the light would still be on? If it is the voltages what could be wrong?

I am going to call the dealership tomorrow to see what they have to say, but if you could add anything it would be most appreciated.
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Old 05-10-2006, 12:34 AM   #12
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Let us know what the answer is.
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Old 05-10-2006, 03:28 PM   #13
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Figures, they told I would have to take it in and they would run some "tests" on it.
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Old 05-10-2006, 06:07 PM   #14
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You installed the HO alt? MAKE SURE YOU UPGRADE YOUR WIRING. You can not run the stock wire from the alternator to the battery. You need to change this to 4 gauge wiring!
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Old 05-10-2006, 10:42 PM   #15
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Wire was already upgraded. I did the Big 3 Upgrade with 4awg wire IN ADDITION to stock wiring and everything.

EDIT: I went to see if I could get a DTC Troubleshooting code out if it with my digital odometer, it just told me "DTC none." So that isn't any help. I've had a few people tell me that the computer needs to be "reset" after the error, any truth to this?

EDIT2: Found some posts with similar problems to mine, they recommended the user check their alternator wire harness, I will be doing that as well as doing some voltage tests (must be from 13 to 14 correct?) this weekend.
We've been having some delays because I also had part of the thermostat housing break off a while ago and jam the thermostat open, a nice little manufacture defect that we didn't notice (aside from the thermostat being stuck open) until it started leaking coolant like crazy. Went to the dealership today figuring that they would have to special order that part (the housing) turns out they had sold 5 of them in the past year (quite a few for the small area I live in), the guy knew exactly what I was showing him (what car/engine) before I told him. Apparently this was all enough to even keep that part in stock. Why the hell isn't this a recall is beyond me.

Last edited by Atlanta800; 05-11-2006 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 05-13-2006, 07:10 PM   #16
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Dead Alt/Bat [SOLVED] Now battery light on

Alright, here is the deal, we got it all put back together today. We've talked with the dealership they said it may be the harness. We've talked to the guys at MotorCityReman, they seemed fairly eager to make sure everything worked fine, they asked that we check the voltages.

So today, we check everything. The harness seemed to be fine, but I'm not sure. The here are the voltages:
First start (bringing the battery to full charge) - 13.5 (idle) - 14.6 (3k RPM)
After a good charge, and driving the car about 15 miles - 13 (idle) - 14.4(3k RPM)

So everything still seems to be fine (maybe on the high side) again, any ideas let me know. I'm going to start driving the car because it seems to run perfectly ok and we can't find any immediate danger.

EDIT: Drove it yesterday, again everything seems fine. We will be taking it to an auto electrician (NOT to the dealership). Just in case anyone that finds this thread is wondering, the new alt REALLY helped with headlight dimming, at night you can only slightly notice that the lights dim on really hard hits. I'm probably going to buy a small-ish size capacitor to help with that.

Last edited by Atlanta800; 05-14-2006 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 05-18-2006, 03:50 PM   #17
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Since you have upgraded your charging system, You just might want to install a volt and amp gauge so you can monitor how everything is working. I'm not familiar with the Focus Charging system, but usually a High Output Alternator should have an internal regulator and should/could just wire straight up to the battery. For installing extra accessories to your car. The formula is Watts X Volts = Amps. IE. If your running 1k watts total from your stereo system, you will need an additional 120amps to run those accessories. Hope this was helpful. Aloha, Victor
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Old 05-21-2006, 07:28 PM   #18
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Thumbs down

NEVER! pull off a battery cable while the engine is RUNNING!
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Old 05-21-2006, 07:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by helicoil
NEVER! pull off a battery cable while the engine is RUNNING!
Yeah that's what the dealership said. My dad is oldschool so back in his day the computer wasn't a concern. Obviously things are different now. We only did it twice (once with the old alt, once with the new) so hopefully no long lasting damage.

I guess I should give an update. Here is the deal, we've been in contact with MotorCityReman and they have been handeling things VERY well. Basicaly what they did was order a stock alt from Ford, then rip it apart and rebuild it. Well, turns out they got the wrong alternator, the one they have doesn't have the sensor in it to tell the computer it is working OK. I've been driving it for a couple weeks now with the new alt in, we've been keeping the charging system in close check and it is working perfectly fine, so the alternator itself is fine. So what they are going to do is pay for us to ship it back, soon as they get it swap it for the correct one, and then ship that back to us. They are paying for everything, not costing me an extra dime. Our expiriance with these guys has been great, they are very helpful, this was an extremely easy mistake to make for them (it pretty much comes down to when your car was manufactured to get the correct parts). So in my opinion they are a GREAT shop and I would not have to think twice about doing buisiness with them again if we needed to.

They said I would have to ship it back within 6 months (!!!) which is really nice because it is very costly to be driving my parents jeep everyday. I am going to be gone for a week on vacation in mid-June so we will do the swap while I am gone.

Just thought you guys might want to know.
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Old 07-02-2006, 04:13 AM   #20
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Alright, everything is done, we got the new alt in and installed it. Worked fine right out of the box. Looks like all they did was swap whatever chip was on the alt with the correct one because what I got back was exactly what I sent them except from the part behind the plug.
Like I have said before these guys are amazing to work with. I got my package expedited back to us for only $17 more to us (it cost about $40 more to expedite it) they were very quick on the turn around (recieving it to shipping it out). So anyways, just though I'd let you all know (especially anyone that searched and found this) everything is working perfectly now.
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