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Old 04-05-2006, 05:11 AM   #1
ozan
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how to get best drag launch??

as i said in a topic i ll be having a drag race at 9th of April in FI class...

race day info:
it is going to be some less than 1/5mile drag (exact length : 310m)

my mods are listed in my sig. and i am expecting a weight reduction of -200Lbs vs Stock..
i have 195/55/15 street tyres...

Well the question is that;
this will be my first drag race and i dont know the things to keep in mind for a drag launch..

i have had too many race launches in the streets but none in a drag strip... i am not familiar with that "christmas tree" and how the general conditions of the tarmac at drag strip... i think it will be cleared after several launches and may be there will be some rubber layer also????

in the streets my best launches are in that way;
i gear to 1st,
pull the hand brake keeping the release button pushed,
leave the clutch till sticking point while keeping the throttle around 4000rpms,
i keep the clutch and throttle in a position that it launches as soon as i relase the hand brake...

but in that way as you hold the hand brake u can not hold the shifter and in some cases after a hard launch gear can push it self to neutral position...
i have that issue several times in several cars i am not sure about my focus having that issue in the 1st gear but i know it has a habbit at 2nd and 3rd at some bumpy roads... so it may be risky launching the car in that way at drag races??

comments, advises, all inputs are wellcome and apreciated...


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Old 04-05-2006, 08:06 AM   #2
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At a good drag strip, the launch pad should be very level, so you won't need to worry about holding your e-brake for launching. Experiment with dropping the clutch at RPMs between 3000 and 4500 RPMs. Then try slipping the clutch between those RPMs. If you dump the clutch, make sure your tires are already heated by doing a burnout of some kind, nothing really big. I would suggest letting some air out of the tires if you have large sidewalls. Helps a little bit with tire wrinkle, and there is a little more contact patch touching the ground at launch so you have more are on the tire gripping the stickiness of the track.
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Old 04-05-2006, 08:35 AM   #3
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all is OK but i dont pull the handbrake because of level issues.. i hold the clutch at sticky point not just before that point so when u release the hand brake while revving around 4000rpms it makes the car go... thats the point...
same thing with a clutch test; u shift to 1st, pull the hand brake, give some throttle and release the clutch pedal till its sticky point and see if the car tries to go or slipping the clutch...
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:39 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by ozan
all is OK but i dont pull the handbrake because of level issues.. i hold the clutch at sticky point not just before that point so when u release the hand brake while revving around 4000rpms it makes the car go... thats the point...
same thing with a clutch test; u shift to 1st, pull the hand brake, give some throttle and release the clutch pedal till its sticky point and see if the car tries to go or slipping the clutch...
yes, and doing that will wear your clutch faster than popping your clutch at 4 grand because you are riding the clutch with your e-brake holding you. Dropping the e-brake won't make the time between popping the clutch at 4 grand and cramming your foot another 3 inches to the floor any faster because you just added one more thing to do in a sequence making it a little longer. Just stick with revving to 4 grand and dropping or slipping the clutch while cramming or easing your foot into the gas, respectively. Making sure you release the e-brake is just one more thing to think about in your launch, and the e-brake isn't spring loaded to go back down, so you have to push it down. While your clutch pedal is spring loaded, so all you do is let off. You want to make it as simple as possible.
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:54 AM   #5
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I got my 60' times down to 2.095 from the previous best 2.4's by using the e-brake method.

The right had holds up the e-brake, button depressed. clutch out to where with no brake, it would be barely trying to creep forward, rev to 3.5 k (in my car that seems the best RPM). As soon as the last yellow light comes on, release clutch, add gas, drop brake.

This method works for me, my clutch has been holding up fine with 20 or so passes done this way. Popping the clutch at 4k might not wear the clutch as fast, but you risk shattering the engine mounts and breaking axles and such doing it that way.

Comparing worst case scenarios, I'd rather have a slipping clutch when I'm done, than have a dented hood, broken tranny and a big tow bill.
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:06 AM   #6
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what kind of tires did you have for both 60' s? Same ones?

If this method works for you and you have practiced it alot, use it. But slipping the clutch will do just as good without using the e-brake. And dumping the clutch won't break motor mounts or axles unless, as I said, you don't heat the tires or let air out of them. I have dumped my clutch at the track and havn't broken anything because I heated the tires and let some air out of them.

Althought, I wanna try to be more open to new methods of launching and since I am planning on going to track tonite...I will try the e-brake method just to see if I can get it to work.
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:17 AM   #7
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I'm running drag radials now, but when I first installed the drag radials, my 60's still sucked. I had the best of 2.334(one time, all others above 2.400) before switching to the e-brake method.

On street radials, same thing with even worse times 2.6-2.4 with no e-brake, consistant 2.4-2.3 with e-brake.

It's a driving style, and like a lot of driving styles, you gotta pick the one that works for you. It may be that you do much better your way, and I do better mine. But give the guy his options, cause he may respond better to yours, or he may find my way easier.
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:26 AM   #8
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You're letting air out? on a street radial? Try keeping them above 25psi (I tried anywhere from 20-35 and found 35 to be best on a street radial) On my drag radials, I run 22psi.

A street tire isn't built the same as a drag radial or slick. lowering the air pressure actually reduces the contact patch. I know you will find people that argue that, but it's true. The tread actually buckles inward, and you are only getting contact on the two sides of the tire.
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:27 AM   #9
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Whats your guys thoughts on tire spin?! I have a centreforce clutch and I have no idea where I shuold be starting from. Anywtime I rev above 2 grand for a start I spin my wheels like bejeezus. Do you think I should be more gentler on gas with a higher rpm then. I usually end up jsut getting rolling a bit more and then give er once I have traction, but i am getting killed off the line.
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:41 AM   #10
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size/type of tire?^^

you need to find the 'contact point' of your clutch, with either method of launching, you need to know when the clutch is actually engaging. pre-revving to 2k and then trying to find the contact area while you are leaving, you are probably at 4-5k before you actually get the clutch engaged... hence the tire spin.

I've found a slight amount of tire spin is good, but not enough to break the tires free.

take your car out to a parking lot, and using the clutch only (no gas) learn to creep your car forward from a stop. once you find where the car just starts to move, you've found the contact point.

never add more gas (no matter which method or what rpm) until that foot is past that point.
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