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Old 03-15-2006, 01:23 PM   #1
lildisco
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My 2000 Intake Mani Install

As some of you might know, i just recently installed my 2000 Intake Manifold. I thought that i would just share my opinions and tips on this install.

It started off as a good day. I was going to have a couple of friends come by and help me get started on this. The main person that was going to help me had taken off his intake manifold before and had some experience with them. Turns out he got sick and couldn't make it. So i decided to tear into it on my own and was working out good. Untill i reached the bolt behind the alternator. That was THE biggest pain in my a**. It took FOREVER to get the Alternator off so that we could reach the last bolt. I had to have help with that thing. It took nearly 2 - 3 hours to get that damn thing off. Now i could have taken even less time, but there was a dinner break and a couple of smoke breaks (my buddy that was helping me, i don't smoke)

Once we got that out, putting everything back together was a breeze. We started it up and it ran like crap. Wouldn't idle and acted like it wasn't getting any fuel. I had a brain fart and forgot to hook up the main Vac like that connects to the near bottom of Intake manifold. I quickly got underneath the car and took care of the problem. Started it up and idled kinda high. I say Kinda, because i don't have a tach and i don't know what RPM it was hanging at. But it would eventually come down after it sat for about 15 seconds. I figured maybe i need to drive it around for a lil bit and ee if the computer needs to re-learn with this new mod. (We had the Battery un-plugged) So i drove it around for a few days and the idle never really got any better. In fact it got worse.

This started my next delimma of figuring out what the hanging rev problem coud be. First things first, i checked for VAC leaks. I Sprayed everything with TB Cleaner and the idle (once it settled down after revving) and didn't find any VAC leaks. Next thing i changed was the TPS. No luck with that. It actually threw a code of P0122 which is a TPS Sensor Voltage low. I changed the TPS back to the original and have yet to get the P0122 code. Now that left me with 1 more thing, that i know of, that controlled the idle. The Idle Air Control Valve.

I looked all over the place for one and nobody had one in stock. This was Thursday. I went to Napa Thursday after wook and told them the Part # i needed and they said that it would be here Tuesday (yesterday). Went to pick it up and it got lost in translation somewhere. So i said screw it, put the old back on after i clean it up. I had this black guey substance on this thing. It took some TB Cleaner, rag and a small screw driver and cleanned this puppy up. I got a lot of this black stuff out (carbon or oil engine oil?) and put it back on the car. I started it back up and found that my idle was PERFECT! I was freakin happy that it was fixed. I did the happy dance around the car atleast twice. I got the car off the jack and took her for a test drive. It was like i had to re-learn how to drive the car again.

I found that in my excitedness that i forgot to connect the sensor back up for the Idle Air Control Valve. I connected it back up and revved the car and the idle hung, but for about 7 seconds or so. Much better than close to 15 seconds. The only thing that i've noticed, is with the sensor unplugged, my Idle doesn't go up when the A/C is on. I for one don't have a problem with giving the car a little bit of gas while at a stop. But I am going to pick up my sensor today from Napa (hopefully) and install it here in the next week or so. Probally when i install my SVT Suspension.

I just figured if anyone was having the same symptoms as me to check this thread out and my other thread with my IACV Problem. Enjoy!

Clicky Clicky for my other thread


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Old 03-15-2006, 01:36 PM   #2
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this is from osiris_vdc and his write up for the 2000 Intake Mani Install. I used this more as guidelines than word for word.

Notes before starting:

* This install was done with no exhaust at all (header, cat, flex, etc.), so I'm not sure if components will be in your way.
* Your going to need a nice set of tools, including an extensive ratchet set. It would be great to have a long and short of the following: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm. You're also going to need a Torx set for the throttle body. You can cheat by using a perfectly sized flathead screwdriver if you're lucky.
* With this install, there are a few different options you can take along the way. I will point these out and the reader can make the decision as to what is best for him or her.

Steps:

1. Remove battery cover and disconnect negative side of battery.
Option 1: You can either leave the fuel line connected to the fuel rail, or you can disconnect it for more space during the install. If you do decide to disconnect the fuel line, here are the steps:
Click to Enlarge
* Unclip white plastic clip at the passenger side end of the fuel rail and gently pull fuel line off. *NOTE* Have some towels ready because gas will come out a little
* Unscrew 2 screws holding on the black end piece of the fuel rail and remove. *NOTE* Removing this will just make moving the fuel rail around easier because of the wiring on this piece.

2. Unscrew the 2 screws that hold down the fuel rail. These screws face downward and towards the front end of the car - in a diagonal fashion if you want to call it.
3. Take 2 flathead screwdrivers and gently wedge out the fuel injectors.
4. Remove grounding bracket.
Option 2: You can either remove the throttle body now, or leave it on during the install. Removing it now will, once again, give more space and make things alittle easier. Either way, here are the steps:
Click to Enlarge
* Unscrew the top 4 Trox screws on the throttle body
* Remove TPS
* Unscrew 3 bracket screws along the side of the throttle body
* Disconnect throttle cable
5. Unplug all the sensors and vacuum lines from the intake manifold. There should be about 9 things to unplug if I remember correctly.
*NOTE* At first, you may think that Ford is really stupid for making a different locking mechanism for all these clips, but when putting back on, it really helps. Only one sensor will plug back into another so you can't screw up when reconnecting everything
Click to Enlarge
6. Now you are ready to remove the manifold bolts. There are 10 blots to remove: 2 from the EGR, 2 on the EGR bracket, 2 on the top of the manifold next to the runners, 1 on the passenger side of the manifold next to the runners, 2 on the bottom of the manifold next to the runners and 1 on the top passenger side of the manifold.
*NOTE* Do yourself a favor and don't lose or damage the EGR gasket
Click to Enlarge
Option 3: There is a clearance issue with the passenger side intake manifold stud. There is two things you can do - either remove the stud from the block or pivot the alternator. If you decide to pivot the alternator, follow these steps:
* Remove brake fluid and coolant reservoirs off their brackets and move off to the side. *NOTE* Relocating these will allow you to reach the belt tensioner and alternator a lot easier. Don't worry about anything spilling - its all sealed.
* Loosen the belt tensioner and remove the belt off the alternator.
* Loosen the two bolts on the alternator. They are gold in color and both face to the passenger side of the car; one towards the front middle and the second towards the bottom back of the alternator.
* Remove the front middle bolt completely (this will allow the alternator to "pivot" on the back bolt). Use a pry bar or large flathead screwdriver to "pivot" the alternator towards the firewall.
7. Now there will be 1 or 2 (depending on what you decided in Option Three) studs from the engine block still holding up the manifold. Remove the manifold.
8. Take a clean shop rag or something and clean up the block surface and such.
9. Once you get the old manifold off and the new one ready, inspect the back of both of them. On the 2000 manifold, there actually could be one extra vacuum hole than manifolds from other years. If there is an extra hole, epoxy shut. ALso, transfer metal piece on the back of old manifold to the new one

Click to Enlarge
10. Put the new manifold on those two studs
11. Bolt down the new manifold including the EGR as well. *NOTE* Do not use a lot of torque on this plastic manifold - it will break. Tighten bolts till they feel fairly firm to the hands. This will 1) make sure the plastic does not break and 2) will not create any vacuum leaks. *NOTE* Do not put the EGR bolts in the wrong way. Make sure they start from the drivers side and move in towards the block. This mistake alone could set you back an hour or so to get them off.
12. Optional: If you took the alternator route than follow these instructions:
* Pivot the alternator back and bolt back into place. *NOTE* The alternator may have fell back alittle and it may be hard to find the threads for that bolt. What works for this problem if it happens to you is to gradually tap the alternator back slowly and eventually find that thread
* Loosen belt tensioner and place belt back on
* Place brake and coolant reservoirs back on the brackets /li>
13. Reconnect all the sensors and vacuum lines on the new manifold
14. Place fuel rail back in place and gently push the injectors back in place
15. Screw down the 2 screws to the fuel rail
16. Optional: If you decided to disconnect the fuel line, then follow these steps:
* Place that black fuel line sensor back on to the end of the fuel rail and screw the two screws back in
* Reconnect fuel line with white plastic clip to the fuel rail
17. Reconnect your throttle body by placing the bracket back on with the three screws and screwing back down with the 4 Torx screws. Replace TPS and throttle cable as well
18. Reconnect battery and replace battery cover.

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Old 03-15-2006, 03:31 PM   #3
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You should check for really tiny vacum leaks some times that happens and you don't notice. So go over the lines again. But good job getting it on hope you like the new manifold.
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Old 03-15-2006, 03:47 PM   #4
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I done so about 20 different times and sprayed TB Cleaner all over the place and still didn't find the problem. But the Problem is fixed when i unplugg the IACV
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