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Old 05-12-2010, 06:46 PM   #91
Kal-EL428
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I finally got around to changing my clutch master cylinder today. It was fairly straight forward, but a bit more involved than I thought it was going to be. All in all, it was not that difficult, more time consuming than difficult.
Since I just did mine (May 12, 2010), feel free to PM me with any questions/ concerns you may have.

* Tip: Have plenty of brake fluid on hand for the bleeding process, I went through way more than i thought.
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Old 05-22-2010, 05:26 PM   #92
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Did my CMC today

I did not take the pedal off I just took the two bolts off holding the CMC to the pedal bracket and bent the lower tab (that holds the clutch position switch - I took mine off years ago) to enable me to pull the CMC out.

I took the wheel off and wheel liner out so I could get my other hand in to push on the lines from the side.

I removed the battery so I had space to move the fuse box into

NOW the BEST TIP - leave the new clips ON the CMC - DO NOT try to put them on after you put the lines on. The lines are design to push snap into the CMC with the clips IN PLACE. I read many horror stories of people trying to get the clips on when the CMC is installed. It is next to impossible!

Fix the lower line BEFORE you secure the CMC inside the car - the CMC needs to be loose so it can be pushed from the fire wall to make room for re-connecting the lower line.
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:34 AM   #93
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Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket CMC other than the Ford plastic "toy" CMC?
I'm about to replace my 2nd CMC in 2 years. First CMC broke like many others have mentioned in their earlier posts, but the second CMC broke by the lower line and the pipe flange clip...happy happy, joy joy! I've also noticed that when I push the clutch down, the green plate (part of CMC) wants to push through the firewall. Any thoughts, thanks in advance for this rookie!
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:47 PM   #94
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No replacement that's a "plug - n - play" for the stock unit, making sure all the pieces are there & in the right places so it lines up right is the only "generic" advice I've got to avoid doing it again soon.... Could the first replacement have been a bit out of place? or a clip/clamp not re-used that wasn't included with the new part? (just trying to think of possible issues here....)
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Old 10-16-2010, 04:51 PM   #95
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is there a way for me to temporary fix it? like throw some rtv in there? its gonna take 3 to 5 days for me to get the damn part.
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:22 PM   #96
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http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243148
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:44 PM   #97
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Do you get a check engine light when the clutch master cylinder is failing? I have my car in the shop right now to have it replaced but I also told them to see what that check engine light is all about. The light came on not long after I noticed fluid on my clutch pedal.

I did have a sterio system with amps installed and I'm noticing the car wants to die when I push the clutch in at stop lights for the first 5 minutes after starting my car, but I also noticed that before the sterio intall. I hope it's not an alternator. I have 90,000 on my SVT.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:42 PM   #98
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^^^No CEL for bad clutch master.
You may get the brake light coming on due to low fluid, but I hate to say it...your CEL is something else.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:51 PM   #99
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And so a thread started in 06 was resurrected. This is in the How-To Archive on the banner, I'm going to lock it, if there's a reason to unlock it, then contact me and it can be unlocked.
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